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01-11-2019, 10:27 AM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Boston
Posts: 18
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i must save this phalaenopsis
I am amazed and thankful that the experts on this forum do not roll their eyes at yet another beginner ruining another plant and move on to the next post. I received an orchid as a present from someone very dear to me. I called the florist it came from, and followed the watering instructions to the letter, because one of my supermarket moss-media orchids died of root rot years ago. Well, I ended up with root rot on this orchid too... in a month, I got limp leaves. I tried to get ideas from the dozens of forum posts I had over many many days... I took the it out of the moss it was packed in, cut off most of the rotten roots, as well as the flower spikes (1 spike I kind of left at about 6 inches), used fungicide, etc. and now for the past 6 weeks the orchid has been sitting as in the picture, and I spray it with a diluted kelp mix every other day (this, from another florist). In the meantime, 1 of 4 leaves dropped. The past few days I soaked the roots in tap water (which I had let sit for 24 hrs b/c I read someone's comment that chlorine may harm the plant but dissipates in a day if you let the water sit) for about half an hour. (this, from yet another post I had seen somewhere). I am in the northeast and the office room the plant is in is very dry. From where I sit in the office, I cannot help looking over at it every few minutes as if watching something on life support. I have seen humidity not go over 22% in this office. Temperature from 65 to about 77. The glass vase the orchid is in, is sitting on a tray with water, but that hasn't had any effect on the readings on my instrument. I see 2 small root-like knobs appearing. Should I leave the plant as is, and not risk moving it, or should I take it home where it's a bit more humid (I have seen it around 26) and I have the opportunity to take it to a bathroom daily where with showers, and running really hot water for a bit, humidity can go up to 76 and stay high above 50 for at least a couple of hours, from my testing? Here are some pictures of this poor plant.
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01-11-2019, 10:34 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Zone: 6a
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 5,540
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It will do more good to tent it than to set it on a tray.
Soak it with a kelp extract, leave a little water in the bottom of the vase, not touching the roots, use the kelp solution a few times. You have some new root nubs forming. When you get a few inches of healthy roots, you can repot.
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01-11-2019, 11:29 AM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Boston
Posts: 18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dollythehun
It will do more good to tent it than to set it on a tray.
Soak it with a kelp extract, leave a little water in the bottom of the vase, not touching the roots, use the kelp solution a few times. You have some new root nubs forming. When you get a few inches of healthy roots, you can repot.
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Thanks! Do you mean, something where there is a damp cloth "tented" sort of one one side of the plant (I found that on youtube), or a see-through sheet/tent with holes for air circulation, covering all sides?
Soak it how frequently, and how long in kelp extract?
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01-11-2019, 11:50 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2016
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Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 5,540
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A plain produce bag with a few holes is fine. Just tent it over the top. Wet/soak the roots when they turn silver. Use the kelp once a week for two or three weeks, then maybe once a month. STOP believing everything you see on YouTube.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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01-11-2019, 12:06 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dollythehun
A plain produce bag with a few holes is fine. Just tent it over the top. Wet/soak the roots when they turn silver. Use the kelp once a week for two or three weeks, then maybe once a month. STOP believing everything you see on YouTube.
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But but but I have spent hours watching people's orchid videos!
Sorry to be so dense, plastic produce bag so it lets light in?
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01-11-2019, 12:12 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Zone: 6a
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 5,540
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Yes, hours that left you more confused and ended up leading you here.
A clear bag, a produce bag draps well, a large ziplock bag (inverted over the top) will work too.
You mentioned how patient we are... not so much about those misleading videos.
Also, go to the maroon search bar. Look for a post called "The Pal Abuse Stops Here."
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01-11-2019, 12:38 PM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Zone: 6a
Location: Kansas
Posts: 5,223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dollythehun
Yes, hours that left you more confused and ended up leading you here. ...
You mentioned how patient we are... not so much about those misleading videos.
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Amen!
And Welcome to the OB inbetween!! And no cinnamon on roots, no hydrogen peroxide on roots, if you've been doing that much video watching.
I also see the new nubbins of roots coming. Key is also "patience." Nothing fast happens with orchid growth.
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01-11-2019, 12:47 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Boston
Posts: 18
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Wow. I imagine the "no cinnamon" and "no hydrogen peroxide" are somewhere in the 71 pages of the "The Phal abuse ends here" thread as well. I have started reading it . Unfortunately I still will be posting about another orchid, before I digest all that info, I believe.
Thank you. You're really nice people.
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01-11-2019, 01:03 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2016
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Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 5,540
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We really, really try!
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01-12-2019, 01:26 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Zone: 9b
Location: Central Coast of California
Posts: 1,163
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I don’t think 22 versus 26% humidity is much of a difference. I’d keep it at whichever location offers the best light and temperature.
It does look like the bases of the roots are still alive. If this is the case, you could probably get away with potting it up in a small pot (I’d recommend something like a 3 inch diameter clear plastic pot) and tenting that. I’d recommend a bark substrate since you don’t have to be quite as careful not to overwater. Water when the substrate is dry (it should be dry within 5 to 7 days if it’s not overpotted). It’ll probably be a few months before you see significant improvement. The soaking method outlined will also work.
The leaf drop was the plant’s way of self triage since it no longer had the root mass to maintain that much foliage. Moss can be tricky to water at low temperatures. You have to be careful to only water it to the point of dampness, not saturation. Saturated moss and temperatures in the 60s will lead to root rot in short order.
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