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  #11  
Old 08-06-2018, 11:38 AM
greenpassion greenpassion is offline
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It is grown in large chunk Orchiata, in a well ventilated clear plastic pot. I water using my well water and a quarter tsp of k-lite and 1 Tbs Epsom salts per gallon, at each watering. Once a month it gets Inocucor and kelpmax. All my orchids get this, and they all bloom without a hitch, sometimes twice a year.
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2018, 02:03 PM
eager2learn eager2learn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenpassion View Post
It is grown in large chunk Orchiata, in a well ventilated clear plastic pot. I water using my well water and a quarter tsp of k-lite and 1 Tbs Epsom salts per gallon, at each watering. Once a month it gets Inocucor and kelpmax. All my orchids get this, and they all bloom without a hitch, sometimes twice a year.
Why salt?

What about temp?

I heard low-temps triggers the flowering process.
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  #13  
Old 08-08-2018, 02:46 PM
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fishmom fishmom is offline
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Epsom salts are a source of magnesium for plants. Greenpassion is not talking about sodium chloride (table salt) which is not good for your orchids.
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  #14  
Old 08-08-2018, 02:52 PM
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Roberta Roberta is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eager2learn View Post
Why salt?

What about temp?

I heard low-temps triggers the flowering process.
Epsom salt is not "salt" (sodium chloride, bad bad bad for orchids)... it is Magnesium Sulfate... it is added if the water is very low in magnesium and plants show evidence of deficiency. I have heard it suggested that it can be a bloom booster for Cymbidiums, but I haven't seen any evidence. Most water supplies contain adequate magnesium, but if using very pure water a supplement (which is also contained in some pure-water fertilizer formulations) may be in order. So first, it is important to know the chemical composition of YOUR water... what works for someone else may not work for you.

Commercial growers "shock" Phals with lower night temperatures for a week or two, to "time" their blooming to the major holidays or for shows. For the hobby grower, the natural temperature drop in fall is quite sufficient. (We don't usually heat our houses to summer temperatures all winter so it just happens in the course of time) If a Phal doesn't bloom but is otherwise healthy, the culprit is usually inadequate light (and /or inadequate light duration)
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  #15  
Old 08-08-2018, 03:37 PM
greenpassion greenpassion is offline
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Fishmom is correct. And I started using it when I began to notice that several of my phals had developed 'mottled' leaves, (patches of brighter green mixed with the darker green) It won't correct leaves already affected, but all new growth is now a nice even green, no mottling. I have well water, and it apparently is low in magnesium. As far as temps go, in answer to your question, I keep them fairly steady around 70/75 through summer, and in winter around 69/70. I also have them all on a warming mat, with the mat next to the living room window turned up a bit higher than the ones not next to cold glass.
Thru winter the temps do go lower.
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