Strangely confused about how much to water the Phals

[Roberta]

Once potted, don't peek... if you move the bark around those growing root tips, they are likely to be damaged and stop growing. With that nice chunky mix you should be able to water at least twice a week ( 3 times if it is hot and dry). When you water, WATER -- like under the faucet, let the water run through the pot. That flushes out salts, general crud, and pulls air into the root zone. There are lots of "right ways" to do this, but the goal is humid air around the roots. The "air" part is critical.

[JaimeZX]

Totally with you. I love seeing crud wash out the bottom. My only concern is that watering that often the dang wood chips will NEVER dry out! I assume the roots keep growing to the center because that's where it's wettest, but then they rot there. Do you think watering more often would encourage them to grow in all directions and therefore be counter-intuitively LESS likely to rot?

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by JaimeZX

Totally with you. I love seeing crud wash out the bottom. My only concern is that watering that often the dang wood chips will NEVER dry out! I assume the roots keep growing to the center because that's where it's wettest, but then they rot there. Do you think watering more often would encourage them to grow in all directions and therefore be counter-intuitively LESS likely to rot?

Watering more often with water flowing out the bottom may well help - it's about the air. When water flows, it pulls air behind it. So yes, seems counter-intuitive, but what those roots want is air. Give them air (and air exchange) and I think they'd be much less inclined to rot.

[Dollythehun]

With that huge bark, you likely can't overwater. You repot when the medium has broken down, not on a schedule.

[WaterWitchin]

Originally Posted by JaimeZX

...My only concern is that watering that often the dang wood chips will NEVER dry out! I assume the roots keep growing to the center because that's where it's wettest, but then they rot there. Do you think watering more often would encourage them to grow in all directions and therefore be counter-intuitively LESS likely to rot?

I'm with DollytheHun on the skewer method. Never worked for me. The point isn't to wait until the bark dries out. Perhaps that's why it takes three weeks before you water again?

I think you're correct... the roots keep heading to the inside of the pot, where it's more humid. They don't grow toward the outside of the pot where you could actually see the roots 1) because the bark is too dry at the perimeter, and 2) bark on outside of pot is drying rapidly because of all those holes you've drilled.

I see both a combination of dehydration of leaves along with your root rot problem. Yes, both can be happening at once. Were they mine, I would either repot into a clear pot with no side holes or slip them as presently planted into a slightly larger pot so the bark at the perimeter didn't dry as fast. Then get rid of the skewer method and water by "feel" of pot weight as Dolly said, and definitely at least once a week with that size bark.

The point with a clear pot is so you can see the roots. When they get silver, water until they're green. Repeat as needed. You have a hostile environment at present to have roots want to grow toward outside of pot.

I have some lovely ceramic "orchid" pots with lacy holes throughout the pot. When I use them, I have another pot inside and they're for decoration only.

Having said that, I never grow phals in bark now. Haven't for years. They're either mounted, in S/H, or vase/water culture. For my culture, it's what works best for phals.

Just my Everyone grows differently. What matters is finding a way that works well for you. Present way isn't.

[Leafmite]

I can kill any orchid roots in bark...even very good quality bark mixtures so I never use it. I agree, it just depends on your conditions and your care what will work best for you.

[JaimeZX]

OK - worth a shot! I will water more often! Also, I will look for something non-absorbent to mix in next time I re-pot. (Styrofoam?)

I'll report back in a few months. Thanks, y'all.

[Roberta]

Styrofoam is not very useful, since it has a smooth outer layer, and so would not contribute all that much to air spaces. Perlite, pumice, volcanic rock all have lots of surface area. People sometimes put styrofoam "peanuts" on the bottom of pots just to take up up space. Trouble is, the stuff is so light that the plant becomes even more top-heavy than it otherwise would be. I have never found these to be especially useful. If you DO use styrofoam "peanuts" make sure that they aren't the biodegraable type, or you'll end up with a glue-like mess.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Try this...

When you repot, try to use a pot that is small enough to fit it in, and then put some non-water absorbent material in the center of the pot. Push the roots out so that it is flush against the inside walls of the pot, then fill the pot back up with the potting media of choice. Do not use moss as a top dressing.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Styrofoam is actually very useful.

Break it into rough pieces by hand, rather than cutting into smooth pieces. Lower parts of my orchids nearly all have styrofoam, I almost never have more than 5 % roots decayed in the pot, big healthy root systems.