Identifying an Orchid

[Mace7190]

I am a new orchid grower and live in bellingham washington where the back of my house faces east and front is west. I do not know what kind of orchid my partner bought for me and i feel it would be vital the health. I also have it facing a giant east, east west window and do not know if that is too much sunlight. I heard indirect sunlight is the best. The orchid is also growing a brown spot on a tip of one leaf.
question what is this Orchid type, how much sunlight does ot need and water. the upstairs where it is living gets hot and humid by the way.

[ninja_phal]

That is a Phalaenopsis orchid (probably a random hybrid)! Indirect sunlight, temps of around 75, and watering about once a week. When I get new plants, I like to repot them to check the health of the roots, remove any dead roots, and give the plant fresh media, but I wait until after it finishes blooming so it doesn't loose flowers from stress. They do best lightly packed in bark/spagnum moss. Also if the spot was there when you got it and not growing it's probably from cold/heat/light damage. Whatever damage happens to Phalaenopsis leaves is permanent; this type of plant slowly grows new leaves and sheds old ones, but doesn't heal any leaf damage.

[Optimist]

I've found that my phals do well in East windows, (in the windows, not far away from them.) I would have put the stool right there under the window. Also, realize that Washington State is very far North, so your lighting might be different than someone who lives closer to the equator. When in doubt, a grow light bulb in a regular lamp is a good option for supplemental lighting.

I'd watch the brown on the leaf and see if it grows. Many things about it need more observation and more photographs. Is it pitted? (indented) Is it expanding? Is it circular (like ringworm)? In some cases, it may have been damage done a long time ago to the plant which is from 3-5 years old approximately (due to hormones and other things that make mass-produced orchids grow faster than usual). A worse case scenario is that it could be a virus, a best-case scenario is that it was cold "nip" that it got as a seedling and is totally over it, but has a little scar.

Remember when you feed, use clear water, like rainwater, and when you fertilize use fertilizer made for orchids, and at 1/4 the amount recommended. I have found most leaf spots can be avoided if you keep your water clean and your fertilizer "light."

[MrHappyRotter]

Right now your Phalaenopsis is in a decorate container. It's okay to leave it there temporarily, but once it is done flowering or once it starts showing signs of decline, be prepared to move it into a more traditional potting situation. If you go with the standard orchid mix (bark, moss, etc), be sure to put it in a pot that's just barely large enough to fit the root system after you've trimmed off all the dead roots. Healthy roots will be firm and green to white in color. Dead roots will be mushy or papery.

As for the light, it's hard to get an idea of distance from your photo, but you really need to have the orchid very close to the window for optimal light. Right now it looks too far away (again, I'm guestimating). Keep in mind that light intensity drops off very rapidly as the plant is moved away from the window. It may look bright to us, but for a plant, things are much different. If you can't place the plant right next to the window, you may have to consider supplemental artificial lights.

[Mace7190]

The spot was not there when i received the orchid. it started off as a yellowish and is getting browner and bigger i believe. I had it far away from the window because I read the like indirect sunlight? So should i move it to the window sill? it would get good light that way for most of the day. are there tools that read humidity in the room? what should i invest into to make sure mu orchid has a good life. right now i have orchid bark and orchid food. i feel i might be over watering the orchid. i strongly believe it needs to be re potted, but i do not want to stress out the flowers.

[Dollythehun]

You don't want hot light on it. I'm guessing your east window is not hot. If you hold your hand above the plant and it casts a definite, but distinct shadow, the light is ok. If your plant is potted in moss, wait to water until the top of the moss is crunchy. Phals are very forgiving of humidity. Temperatures below 60f should be avoided. You can go to Lowe's and buy a humidistat/thermometer combo for 10 bucks when you get a moment go to the Phal section and read "The Phal Abuse Stops Here." And please stop stressing. Phals are a great first orchid. I don't think your leaf damage is serious but someone else may help with that.

[greenpassion]

Agreed with the above advice, and might add that if the plant starts to show signs of decline,(limp dehydrated leaves) I would bite the bullet and cut off the flowered spike. I do this to try to help the orchid turn all it's energy back to the plant and roots, rather than have it continue to try to support the spike and flowers.
I've read here that cutting off roots may do more harm than good, and even if they look bad(mushy or brown) they may still be viable and can still get nutrients to the plant. I'm going to follow this advise as well in future!
When you do repot, keep in mind that orchid roots NEED to have air to the roots, and it's in their best interest to choose a pot with lots of slits and or holes in the sides and bottom.

[estación seca]

What are the temperatures in that room?

The thread you should read is in the Beginners forum. Left yellow menu, Forums, Beginners, The Phal abuse stops here.