Donate Now
and become
Forum Supporter.
Many perks! <...more...>
|
02-16-2018, 06:13 PM
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Northeast/New England
Posts: 40
|
|
Desperate to know if these roots are normal ASAP
I purchased this Aerangis citrata x fastuosa last week. I posted a thread about it not too long ago. It arrived in a plastic pot and I carefully placed it in a netted pot but it began to smell terribly..moldy, rotted smell. I took all the sphag off, rinsed the roots, sterilized my scissors, have cinnamon ready but I don't know which to cut. I also have some new moss ready to repot in a small netted pot. New orchid to me. Actually, is it even worth saving? HELP!! I take it so personally when I loose one because I'm trying so hard.
Thank you all.
|
02-16-2018, 06:23 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2015
Zone: 10a
Location: Abrantes
Posts: 5,525
|
|
I'm noe experienced in that genus but one thing I know: never put cinnamon on the roots. It is a natural and powerful diseccant and will kill them.
__________________
Meteo data at my city here.
|
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
|
|
|
02-16-2018, 06:42 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Zone: 5b
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,953
|
|
I agree. Cinnamon kills roots. Many years ago, I read that you SHOULD apply cinnamon to roots so I applied it to those of a Cattleya. The roots died...quickly.
I do not think the orchid is beyond hope but the culture must change. Most Angraecoids like a good deal of air to the roots. Water tends to replace air so keeping the medium too wet will not allow air to the roots and the roots will suffocate. NZ sphagnum moss is a good medium when used correctly. If your conditions do not allow the moss to dry quickly enough, either use barely enough to cover the roots or mount the orchid.
Good luck!
__________________
I decorate in green!
|
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
|
|
|
02-16-2018, 06:45 PM
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Northeast/New England
Posts: 40
|
|
Should I cut any of the roots?
|
02-16-2018, 06:46 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2016
Zone: 6a
Location: Northern Indiana
Posts: 5,540
|
|
|
02-16-2018, 06:55 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2010
Zone: 5b
Location: Ohio
Posts: 10,953
|
|
I would not cut any of the roots. Let them dry for a day or two to give them a chance to Heal before you pot or mount the orchid. Letting them heal helps to prevent further infection from any damage that might have occurred.
Cutting them would make it easier for infection to enter unless you plan to use a good fungicide. The roots don't actually look too bad, either, and, once healed, might branch.
__________________
I decorate in green!
Last edited by Leafmite; 02-16-2018 at 06:59 PM..
|
02-16-2018, 07:43 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2015
Zone: 10a
Location: Abrantes
Posts: 5,525
|
|
Humidity requirements for this hybrid: 70% humidity, 40%-50% in winter, when growth slows. Grow mounted or potted with coarse media.
You must reduce the humidity, i.e. watering frequency. The problem seems to be root rot due to high humidity and/or too much water and/or low air circulation.
My sugestion would be to change the medium to medium size bark, adapt the watering frequency so that the medium gets dry on the top third in depth and, depending on your temps, increase them if needed.
BTW, what are your temps?
__________________
Meteo data at my city here.
|
02-16-2018, 11:43 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Phoenix AZ - Lower Sonoran Desert
Posts: 18,586
|
|
Aerangis are not very easy to grow until you have learned something about orchids. This is a warm growing orchid that was shipped moist, and got too cold. It is in bad shape. The problem isn't fungus, it's cold exposure. No fungicide will help. Almost all plant rots are caused by poor growing conditions, and fungicide does not help much if conditions are poor.
Many of the roots are dead. The longest root in the first photo is definitely alive, and some of the ones above it are also alive.
This genus also doesn't like root disturbance.
If you have some long-fiber sphagnum moss and a suitable branch, I think mounting it gives you the best chance to save it. You will also need to put it into a growing space that is warm, humid and has good air circulation.
I would attach a very thin layer of sphagnum around a branch with fishing line, dental floss, jute twine or cotton string. You should be able to see the branch or board here and there through the moss layer. It should not be a thick wad of moss.
Then tie the roots on top of the moss with the same material. Don't bury any of the roots in the moss. Put the mount someplace in very bright shade, very humid and warm. Dip it in lukewarm water every day, let it drip off, and put it back in the growing area. The key is going to be keeping it humid and warm.
Living where you are, it might be a good idea to wait for warm weather before ordering plants in the mail. Just a few hours in an unheated delivery van can damage them severely.
I always read a lot about new kinds of orchids before I buy them.
I only trust information from vendors who grow their own plants. A lot of Amazon and eBay vendors give incorrect growing information and say difficult-to-grow plants are easy to grow.
I would be surprised a reputable orchid grower would send a plant like this to New England in a winter like this without a heat pack, and overnight delivery.
|
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
|
DeaC liked this post
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:35 PM.
|