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  #11  
Old 12-14-2017, 06:22 PM
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I use trays, too, to catch the water so that I can water the orchids in place. It makes life easier.

I have been using lava rock about eighteen or nineteen years with Cattleyas and I have never noticed a drying effect on the roots. I decided to try some other mediums, including LECA and I find that the red lava rock works best for me!

Some cravats with using lava rock: When rinsing the lava rock, use a bucket and dump the water outside so that the dust does not clog your sink. The rock is sharp so when an orchid is newly potted, wire/stake it so that the orchid doesn't move and then try not to move the orchid until the roots hold it completely steady. I stake/wire the orchid on top of the lava rock so that, again, the sharp rock does not hurt the new roots that are emerging. If there are healthy roots to preserve, I use dry medium to pot and do not water well for a day or two to allow the roots to heal...or you can use a fungicide. And, last of all, because the rock doesn't decay, you will need to flush the pot well now and then to get rid of any fertilizer/minerals that is unused. I also add extra Calcium (usually egg shells and Cal-Mag) to keep the orchids healthy.

Good luck!
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  #12  
Old 12-14-2017, 06:45 PM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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I don't live in a climate as cold as Wisconsin but I think low humidity with lower temps is a good combination to avoid root rot. Thos conditions are favourable to dry the medium faster and watering is more effective because the plants will have a higer water absortion rate.
It's a fine balance to find the right watering but I do prefer to do it intead of dealing with a medium that never dries out.
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  #13  
Old 12-15-2017, 12:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbarata View Post
I don't live in a climate as cold as Wisconsin but I think low humidity with lower temps is a good combination to avoid root rot. Thos conditions are favourable to dry the medium faster and watering is more effective because the plants will have a higer water absortion rate.
I am guessing that what happens is that cool and dim means slower growth of the orchid which means that not as much water is needed so the roots do not help to drain the medium. While the medium that is exposed to air dries quickly, in a larger pot, the middle is not exposed to enough air and, with the roots not using the moisture, the moisture remains and the roots rot.
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  #14  
Old 12-15-2017, 03:27 AM
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How warm are you keeping your grow area? I don’t have humidity issues where I live now, but in a previous place I lived I found that light and sufficient warmth had more of a positive effect on the plants than increasing humidity did. I moved the plants from their stand to a sunny windowsill one winter, and discovered that although the air was really dry there because of the radiator just under the windowsill, the extra warmth gave them a huge boost. Anything humidity loving was in an open aquarium with wet leca at the bottom.

Are you watering with cold water straight from the tap? At this time of year the water coming out of the pipes is cold enough that it will shock the plants. In the winter I always keep a few jugs of water in the room, that way when I water I have a supply of room temperature water available. The plants seem to like that much, much better, they stay in active growth most of the winter.
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2017, 06:54 AM
Jasonmc89 Jasonmc89 is offline
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I used to struggle with wintertime here in the UK. The last couple of years though I have been fine and I am pretty set on my winter method now!

The most important thing for me is AIR MOVEMENT!

I dont worry too much about winter temp as long as it doesn't drop below about 12 degrees C or so. Also, I don't water too often. I'll give the pots a soak every 2-4 weeks when we get a bright enough day and I'll mist the leaves and surface roots every few days. No fertiliser at all and as much light as I can provide (south facing window)

Like I said though, the most important thing is air movement. I have a 12 inch fan positioned so the air movement just misses the plans (if that makes sense) and it is on 100% of the time. It removes mold spores, eliminates cold and damp spots and helps dry the roots off. I should also mention that all my plants are in terracotta pots with a mainly bark chip medium.
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  #16  
Old 12-17-2017, 11:30 AM
No-Pro-mwa No-Pro-mwa is offline
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I know I've said this before but to wet is not my problem. Mine dry out so fast I have been leaving some of them with some water in the saucer to soak it up. I do know most of you don't have that problem. Any way Camille touched on something that I have finally decided was one of my problems. My house gets pretty cool at night and I was thinking my water was fine if I had it setting at room temp. But this year I am warming it up before I water, even if I have to heat it on the stove. However lately I am mixing my rain or RO water with my well water. I'm almost out of rain water and I get tired of hauling RO. So I can just use warm tap water.
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Old 12-17-2017, 12:35 PM
jkofferdahl jkofferdahl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dollythehun View Post
Can you build a sort of greenhouse around them with shower curtains or plastic?
Or just run a simple humidifier and close the room off from the rest of the house. Hang a doubled sheet in the doorway. Simple, effective and done.
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2017, 12:57 PM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafmite View Post
I am guessing that what happens is that cool and dim means slower growth of the orchid which means that not as much water is needed so the roots do not help to drain the medium. While the medium that is exposed to air dries quickly, in a larger pot, the middle is not exposed to enough air and, with the roots not using the moisture, the moisture remains and the roots rot.
Well, not dim...here, the coldest season has usually more than 90% of the days with clear skies and full sun all day.
Maybe that's why it works for me.
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2018, 09:16 PM
SundayGardener SundayGardener is offline
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Just following up to say that I took this advice and humidity is looking better! We talked about constructing something out of plastic but I wanted a fast solution and got one of the grow shelf covers with the zippered panel in the front. It doesn't cover all the way to the floor, but I can fit the humidifier in there and if the readings are accurate, I got the humidity up from 20% (when it was super frigid) to 50+. I've also been misting inside the plastic which really brings the readings up. And there's a fan to provide some air movement.

I have new roots on catts and I am watching them like a hawk...I hate to see a beautiful green tip turn brown. And neostylis lou sneary is blooming! which was unexpected. I have those type orchids propped over water in vases and they get misted.

I can't do a grow tent or greenhouse in the foreseeable future, but this was an affordable solution and orchids are now much happier
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2018, 10:44 PM
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Wonderful! I am so glad to hear that you have found a solution that works for you!
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