Dendrobium Laevifolium and Miniature Phal: Potential Fungus/Rot?

[DesignerofBeauty]

Hello Everyone,

I recently got a dendrobium laevifolium (just got it in the mail today!) and I am so excited because it has intact blooms, and spikes that are about to bloom! I'm just a wee bit concerned. One of the leaves is orange with some spots on it. I know this orchid is deciduous, so I'm not too concerned about the orange leaf. However, there are spots on this leaf and it's corresponding pseudobulb (see attached image). Does this look okay/is it normal? The package was in the mail for 3 days.

While I'm here, I also am a bit concerned about my mini phal. Where a root is attached to the crown, there seems to be a bit of rotting. However, I'm not sure if this is normal. The orchid is planted in sphagnum moss. I only water it when it is crunchy dry. It is admittedly in a pot that is way to small. I purchased it this way. I planned on upsizing the pot once the blooms fade. This has occurred, and I'm about to repot it. Before I do, should I use a fungicide?

Thanks

[bil]

TBH I see nothing that would bother me. The leaf is coming to the end of its life it seems. I can't see rot on the phal.
It is a good idea to have a good quality fungicide to hand always. That wa sif you are worried you can blitz it with that.
Personally I mount miniphals, they seem to prefer that. If I HAD to pot one I would put it in fine bark, in a wider, more shallow pot.

[estación seca]

There are some extensive threads on Den. laevifolium here. Search on the name from the top maroon menu. It grows very differently from some other orchids. It does not like heat at all, and it needs to stay very moist. People report it is an intermediate grower; I suspect it would be better thought of as a cool grower that tolerates intermediate conditions if they don't last too long.

[DesignerofBeauty]

Thanks bil and ES . This forum is incredibly informative.

Through further investigation of d. laevifolium on this forum, I discovered that dendrobium dichaeoides can tolerate temperatures in the 90s (every once in a while). This is a bit contrary of what culture says. I really wanted to purchase d. dichaeoides rather than laevifolium. I didn't however, because I thought it couldn't tolerate my growing conditions which can reach 85 degrees. Looks like I'll be buying this dendrobium too. Here goes my savings account ... sorry for my little rant ...

[estación seca]

In your situation, I would try the laevifolium and not buy another cool-grower just yet. If you're successful with laevifolium for a year or so, expand. It's better to learn how to grow orchids that are easy to grow in our conditions, then branch out.

I suspect Den. laevifolium can tolerate those warmer days only if it gets cool nights. I think most of New England cools down quite a bit at night, doesn't it?

[DesignerofBeauty]

That's a good point. I'll wait and see how this new orchid does.

It does cool down at night here in New England. 85 degrees is an extreme, considering my apartment has air conditioning. Most days the maximum is 80, and drops down to the low 70s or high 60s at night.

Out of curiosity, do you have to use a lot of humidifiers in Arizona to maintain humidity levels for your orchids? I'm assuming you grow in a greenhouse?

[estación seca]

I have some plants in a sunroom with an evaporative cooler, and some inside the house grouped together in one room. I can grow Eulophia petersii outdoors in summer.

There are a number of beasts under my roof. These increase the ambient humidity with their breathing.

[sofietca]

OP - did that orange leaf ever end up being a problem? Mine has a similar orange leaf right now, though without the spots. It seems fine otherwise.

Also, I noticed the discussion about the temperature range for Den. laevifolium and thought I'd add for the record that mine has been growing outside in southwest Florida for at least two years and it's done absolutely fine in 90+ degree weather with nights in the high 70s! Mine is on a patio under a roof, but it gets direct sun in the mornings and then subdued light the rest of the day. I keep it watered at least once/twice a week and it sits on a tray of pebbles that hold water for humidity. It's blooming like crazy right now.

[Dollythehun]

I'm late to the party. Here are my notes on this Den. I have it in moss and clay, east window, never completely dry. Temps in the low to high 70s rh 45-60%.

My notesendrobium laevifolium is a compact, miniature species native to New Guinea it is in the oxyglosum group but is easier to grow and will tolerate warmer temperatures and somewhat drier conditions than most varieties in this group. The plant is compact with smooth shiny leaves flushed in red-purple. The flowers emerge from the base of the pseudobulb or sometimes from the top between the leaves. They are long lasting and colorful.

Light:
This plant prefers medium light. The color of the leaves is often a good indication as to whether it is receiving the right light. They should have a reddish purple flush if in the correct light. Too little light will cause the leaves to remain green and they will also be narrow in width. East windows or artificial light culture is ideal.

Humidity:
50% or higher is ideal.

Water:
It is best to use rainwater, distilled or reverse osmosiswater. Municipal water with a pH of 7.5 or lower can also be used. Water as the mix approaches dryness but do not allow the mix to become completely dry between watering.

Fertilizer:
We highly recommend using Green Jungle Orchid Food, especially formulated to work with rain, distilled, reverse osmosis water or water low in alkalinity. Fertilize with Green Jungle every time you water if plants are planted in bark. Be sure to flush the mix with clear water only once per month to prevent fertilizer salt build up. For plants in moss or mounted on slabs feed every third or 4th watering as the moss holds a lot of nutrients.

Or use GrowMore 20-10-20 Ureafree for municipal or well water. Use at the rate of ½ teaspoon per gallon. If using GrowMore with rain, distilled, or reverse osmosis water, add back in 5 - 10% municipal or well water to supply the necessary calcium and magnesium. Fertilize every other watering in the summer and every third watering in the winter.

[DesignerofBeauty]

Sofietca, one or two more leaves fell off. When I received the plant, there were some buds yet to bloom. Some of these buds have bloomed or about to bloom. I take it as a sign that it's doing fine. I'll keep my fingers crossed! I have been keeping it moist, but noticed a fungus gnat nearby it today . So perhaps it's too moist.

I've been watering with tap water. Water from the tap is around 7-7.5 pH. RO water might help.

Dolly, to prevent complete dryness, could I just water as soon as the top layer becomes crunchy (mine is potted in moss too), but the bottom layer is still a bit wet?