Different care for young Pros. Cochleata?

[nogreenthumbs]

I've got what I assume is a very young plant. It's pretty tiny. There are 9 pbulbs in what I think is a 2" clay pot which is then in a 3" clay pot. The media looks like good bark and I think there may be some styrofoam peanuts underneath it. I see at least one new root. The leaves and pbulbs are a very light green.

I have the 2 clay pots in another decorative pot that has no drain holes. I have a small amount of water in the bottom of that pot to provide humidity (like a humidity tray) for the plants. This should also soak into the two clay pots to provide more moisture and cooling.

I have the pot on a counter near the window where it will get more dappled light and fewer hours of that than if it was on the window sill. From my reading it seems like the younger plants may not normally get as much light as a more mature plant. Also, it seems like these may not like quite as much sun as say a cattleya.

Is there anything different that needs to be done with this guy vs a more mature plant? More moisture, (possibly like I'm already doing) more food (I'm using my usual fertilizer amount), less sun (possibly like I'm already doing) or anything else?

[PaphMadMan]

The plant may be small but it is far beyond needing to be babied. Gradually get it used to full light levels. A small pot will always need more careful attention to water. For any young plant I find it easiest to follow normal fertilizing, whatever most plants get. Just maybe add an extra boost of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium in the early stages of active growth - either a different fertilizer formula or with calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate - and a little goes a long way.

And the standard abbreviation for Prosthechea is Psh.

[estación seca]

A small pot like this will dry out much faster than a larger pot, especially if the plant is in good health, and taking up lots of water. Let it get just dry between waterings, but don't let it stay dry for more than a day or so.

It isn't a full sun plant; it is a dappled sun plant. Seedlings like this can take quite a bit of light, but not Houston summer sun. And, I suspect it was grown in a fairly shady greenhouse. Move it bit by bit into more and more light. If it looks stressed, move it back a little, and try again in a week to put it into more light.

Unlike some members of genus Cattleya, Prosthecheas may not turn purplish in bright light. The first sign of light trouble may be yellowing areas on upper surfaces of leaves exposed to sun.

[nogreenthumbs]

Originally Posted by PaphMadMan

The plant may be small but it is far beyond needing to be babied. Gradually get it used to full light levels. A small pot will always need more careful attention to water. For any young plant I find it easiest to follow normal fertilizing, whatever most plants get. Just maybe add an extra boost of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium in the early stages of active growth - either a different fertilizer formula or with calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate - and a little goes a long way.

Thanks, I'm using Peters Cal/Mag 15-5-15-5-2 following Ray's recommendation at 25ppm with every watering. Do you then think that I should add a little epson salts once a month or so for a little extra boost?

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

It's not necessary to add Epsom salt. Too much can be detrimental.

This orchid does not like wet feet. Make sure it does dry out between waterings.

[nogreenthumbs]

thx, will do.

[ShadePlant]

The vendor near you sure sells some nice plants. I just purchased one of these and it is much smaller with only a few pseudobulbs. This one should be a Beauty soon.

[nogreenthumbs]

Originally Posted by estación seca

A small pot like this will dry out much faster than a larger pot, especially if the plant is in good health, and taking up lots of water. Let it get just dry between waterings, but don't let it stay dry for more than a day or so.

It isn't a full sun plant; it is a dappled sun plant. Seedlings like this can take quite a bit of light, but not Houston summer sun. And, I suspect it was grown in a fairly shady greenhouse. Move it bit by bit into more and more light. If it looks stressed, move it back a little, and try again in a week to put it into more light.

Unlike some members of genus Cattleya, Prosthecheas may not turn purplish in bright light. The first sign of light trouble may be yellowing areas on upper surfaces of leaves exposed to sun.

Lots of good info. Thanks.

Plenty of water, but not too dry too long. Check
Light, but not too much, check.

---------- Post added at 05:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:50 PM ----------

Originally Posted by ShadePlant

The vendor near you sure sells some nice plants. I just purchased one of these and it is much smaller with only a few pseudobulbs. This one should be a Beauty soon.

I think he's been doing this a while, and he is certainly specialized to only orchids. He seems to have a pretty nice green house, and most of the stuff I see in it seems to be fairly healthy.

He had what I would call a flat of these. I'm guessing it was something like 4x6 or 4x8 grid of these 2" pots in 3" pots. They ranged from 3 pbulbs up to probably what I got. Some were smaller too. I tried to grab one that looked as healthy as possible. I figured that since they all looked about the same, having more bulbs, bigger bulbs, and no shriveled looking bulbs should hopefully be a healthier plant that will take off faster.

[PaphMadMan]

Originally Posted by nogreenthumbs

Thanks, I'm using Peters Cal/Mag 15-5-15-5-2 following Ray's recommendation at 25ppm with every watering. Do you then think that I should add a little epson salts once a month or so for a little extra boost?

That's a good fertilizer, and I don't think a monthly application of Epsom salts is needed. What I would do for young growing plants like this, if it is convenient in your collection, is some extra nitrogen, magnesium and calcium just for a short time as they enter active growth. Nothing major, just somewhat higher rate of the same fertilizer every other week for 6-8 weeks since it is a very good formulation, or equivalent boost using calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts).

But overall, if you use a good fertilizer regularly at a low rate as Ray suggested it will never be the limiting factor in your success, and more is not necessarily better.

[nogreenthumbs]

ok, thx