Oncidium shriveling up, turning yellow!

[estación seca]

The warmth and humidity outside would be good for it. You might consider putting it outside in bright shade if you don't have an issue with squirrels nor racoons.

With the healthy set of roots on that newest pseudobulb, I think it will begin making another growth soon. Hybrid Oncidiums are amazingly vigorous. I think it will survive and thrive.

[Egrigby]

Hi Jaime,

I'm new too. I like to watch Miss orchid girl, but I've learned a few things to think about with her.

First, she live in Romania in the early videos, now in Cypress. She has access to things people in the USA don't, and does not have access to some things we find easy to get. So she might use products that aren't the best for us.

The second is that she likes to experiment. So, while she will recommend you use one method in a particular video, with a good list of reasons, six months later she will change her mind. This is not a bad thing. She always states her methods, previous videos, reasons etc. The problem is, YouTube doesn't recommend her videos in any particular order. Always check the date and look for an update.

If you like YouTube, there are others to watch for more information, balance etc. Wade's orchids is good, and the American Orchid Society has several free webinars, membership not required.

Elaine

[rbarata]

I too like to watch Miss orchid girl vids because her conditions are similar to mine... but she's more organized.
I also like Larry's orchids 'cause they present the culture guides by topics and solely dedicated to culture.
I dislike those that use half of the video showing the flowers and saying how they are magnificent.

[JaimeZX]

More good inputs!

Yes, I have lots of squirrels, but there's also plenty of indirect light on my back deck. Do you think the 80-90°F would be too warm?

[Roberta]

Temperatures sound fine (even ideal) to me. As long as the light is indirect, they can go warmer (especially if the change is gradual as summer sets in) When it's warmer, you can water more (preferably in the early morning or, especially when it's very warm, in the evening)

[estación seca]

Originally Posted by JaimeZX

More good inputs!

Yes, I have lots of squirrels, but there's also plenty of indirect light on my back deck. Do you think the 80-90°F would be too warm?

Temperature is fine, but the squirrels may eat your plants.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by estación seca

Temperature is fine, but the squirrels may eat your plants.

Some hot pepper wax, or one of the animal repellent sprays in the immediate area of the plant should tend to discourage them, especially if there are other plants around. I have plenty of squirrels, but they have other things around - like palm seeds and pine cones that they like a lot better. On a deck near the house you'll probably be OK. You can even create a little "cage" of hardware cloth to surround the orchid, and that should hold them off if they are even remotely interested.

[estación seca]

Midwestern squirrels are not deterred by things that deter California squirrels. The only two things that work on a Midwestern squirrel are a plant cage or death.

[JaimeZX]

Following-up on this... how long is it supposed to take for the pseudobulb(s) to re-inflate? It's been two weeks and they're still pretty shriveled.

I'm using bamboo skewers to monitor media moisture, with a layer of sphagnum on top that I spray every 2-3 days since the short roots seemed to be in the best condition... I'm actually using the same technique for a Phaleonopsis with almost no roots that I repotted. Not working though, that thing is dying slowly.

[Roberta]

The old pseudobulbs will probably not re-inflate. The plant is utilizing them as an energy source until new growths and new roots develop. Eventually, those old growths will shrivel and turn brown. But by that time, you are very likely to have plenty of new growths, with nice leaves and nice p-bulbs. When you have new p-bulbs with new developing roots growing over the side of the pot, you can remove the old dried up stuff when you repot. But orchids teach patience... the time frame is months, or even a year or more depending on the plant's own timing. So... just keep doing what you're doing.

Misting is pretty useless - for the Oncidium and for the Phal. When you water, put the plant under the faucet, let water run through the pot. Then ignore it until it is getting close to dry again (but not bone-dry) How long that takes will depend on your environment and the plant's growing cycle. In summer, if it is dry, you might be doing the full watering every 2 or 3 days. In winter might be once a week.

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