What part of orchid culture am I not understanding?

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by KokeshiHappyGreen

Yes the encyclia is sounding more and more awesome! Thanks Philip for the suggestion.

One thought on my setup. Would maybe a large fish tank with bright plant lighting on top maybe be better than my current setup? And it could help with humidity; add small computer fan if needed extra air movement.

Thanks

Humidity is over-rated as a factor, unless you are growing sensitive, small cloud-forest species. Most epiphytic orchids (certainly the ones that you are likely to get) are well-evolved to tolerate a range of humidity. Even tropical epiphiytes like Phalaenopsis don't require terribly high humidity if their roots have a chance to be exposed to moist air (which is what happens in well-drained media in a plastic pot) Leaves can prevent excess transpiration on their own. Anything with pseudobulbs is even more tolerant, since these have an extra "reserve" to protect the plant from the vicissitudes of the environment. That Encyclia totally doesn't care.

Air movement is much more important - and that can be provided indoors with an inexpensive fan. If your orchids are growing but not blooming, you can easily add light duration with a desk lamp (or for larger area an inexpensive shop light from your local home improvement store) on a timer 12 hours a day to supplement what comes in the window. If there is at least some natural light, plain old full-spectrum fluorescent or LED is fine, no fancy grow-light needed.

If you have Encycia cochleata or similar temperature-tolerant orchid (of which there are many!), consider just putting it outside in filtered sun (like under a tree) for the frost-free part of the year, if you have the space. (I suspect that this time of year qualifies pretty much everywhere in the US) You get good light, good air movement, all you need to do is water if it doesn't rain.

If you can accommodate the temperature requirements of a particular orchid outdoors (obviously varies greatly with the local climate) you can very likely manage the rest of the requirements, saving a lot of work and getting some important factors taken care of for free.

[estación seca]

Sorry, I couldn't bear to read the whole complicated thread... it should not be that complicated.

If you are the sort of person who HAS to fuss over your plants multiple times per day, I suggest you not grow orchids. It will not work. Grow something that needs a huge amount of water, like Aglaonema. There are hundreds of different, really neat cultivars, and they require huge amounts of water.

Brassavolas are not indoor / moss / wet orchids. They are outdoor / full sun / dry roots every day orchids. I just say that as an aside. Give it to a friend who has a sunny place to grow orchids. It's probably going to die in your care.

Stop buying the orchids you think look cool. Do some reading and buy the orchids you can grow.

Decide on ONE way to grow them. Pick semi-hydro, bark in a pot, full water... but pick just one way, and stick with it for a year.

Find ONE single kind of orchid that should do well in your growing conditions, throughout the year. I don't mean find something that might tolerate your conditions. I mean find one orchid that will do WELL for you. Don't pick something because you like the looks. Pick something easy to grow in YOUR conditions. Grow it.

When you feel comfortable with that orchid, and feel comfortable ignoring it for three days in a row, get another orchid that should do well in your growing conditions.

When you can grow those two plants, you will, amazingly, be able to grow a lot more orchids.

Given the conditions you mention above, I suggest growing Phalaenopsis in semi-hydroponics. I don't think you need a fan on your orchids, so I would stop that. Air circulation from central heating and cooling will be enough.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Humidity is over-rated as a factor, unless you are growing sensitive, small cloud-forest species.

I wouldn't necessarily say that humidity is an "over-rated factor" in growing orchids, it can certainly be problematic in more ways than one in varying degrees of seriousness depending on the orchid being grown.

At the very least, low humidity can either cause buds to drop, have the flowers become deformed, or will not encourage the orchid to bloom. Not all orchids will react in such a manner to low humidity, but some orchids certainly can.

I will give you a great example of what I'm talking about. I don't know how many people know this, but many species in the genus Dracula can grow leaves and roots just fine without high humidity. Moderate humidity of about 60% - 70% is good enough. If you want to see flowers, though, some species will not bloom properly without the humidity being at least 80%. They will attempt to form a flower, but the buds will blast. Other species of Dracula will bloom even if the humidity is around 60% - 70%.

At the very worst, low humidity can kill the orchid depending on what is being grown. Relatively few orchids fall in this category, but it is a possibility.

Furthermore, humidity is most certainly an important factor in growing orchid seedlings - particularly those that have just been deflasked.

Overall, I think it's just good standard practice to keep proper tabs on humidity regardless of the orchid. I am trying to teach a newbie good habits. I feel that tracking the humidity of the growing area is part of fostering good orchid growing habits. At least, if there is a problem, there's something to go back to and examine.

Originally Posted by nogreenthumbs

Most epiphytic orchids (certainly the ones that you are likely to get) are well-evolved to tolerate a range of humidity.

I agree with this statement, hence why whenever I speak about humidity levels, it usually is a range, not a specific number.

Originally Posted by nogreenthumbs

Even tropical epiphiytes like Phalaenopsis don't require terribly high humidity if their roots have a chance to be exposed to moist air (which is what happens in well-drained media in a plastic pot)

For some Phals, (particularly the hybrids), the above statement might stand, but definitely not for all Phals. For example, Phalaenopsis appendiculata will not do well in low humidity at all. If anyone tries to grow Phal appendiculata in a relative humidity lower than 60%, you can pretty much watch it fall apart within a couple of weeks and kiss it goodbye. Even at around 60% - 70% humidity, the buds will drop and it will fail to bloom.

Originally Posted by nogreenthumbs

Leaves can prevent excess transpiration on their own.

Yes, through the guard cells of the stomata.

Pearson - The Biology Place

Again, it depends on what you're talking about. Some plants have limits because of where they are adapted to growing.

Originally Posted by nogreenthumbs

Anything with pseudobulbs is even more tolerant, since these have an extra "reserve" to protect the plant from the vicissitudes of the environment.

It is true to a certain extent, and, again, depending on what is being grown.

Originally Posted by nogreenthumbs

That Encyclia totally doesn't care.

I recommended Encyclia cochleata in part because of its tolerance to a moderate to slightly lower than average humidity level.

Originally Posted by nogreenthumbs

Air movement is much more important - and that can be provided indoors with an inexpensive fan.

Air movement is definitely important, which was why I didn't say too much in regards to a fan gently making an orchid's leaves sway a little.

Originally Posted by nogreenthumbs

If your orchids are growing but not blooming, you can easily add light duration with a desk lamp (or for larger area an inexpensive shop light from your local home improvement store) on a timer 12 hours a day to supplement what comes in the window. If there is at least some natural light, plain old full-spectrum fluorescent or LED is fine, no fancy grow-light needed.

Lighting is not the only parameter to take into consideration with regards to blooming. Like I said, humidity levels can play a part in the proper formation of flowers as well.

Btw, the lights may not have to be fancy, but the values I asked for are the ones that are important to factor into. Even CFL's or LED's you find at your local Home Depot will have the wattage, Kelvin temperature, lumens, and/or PAR written on the packages. Those are standard specs.

Originally Posted by nogreenthumbs

If you have Encycia cochleata or similar temperature-tolerant orchid (of which there are many!), consider just putting it outside in filtered sun (like under a tree) for the frost-free part of the year, if you have the space. (I suspect that this time of year qualifies pretty much everywhere in the US) You get good light, good air movement, all you need to do is water if it doesn't rain.

There are lots of temperature tolerant orchids.

Growing outdoors for a certain part of the year is also a possibility for certain orchids that are appropriate for that kind of treatment, but for the time being, it is important to stick to one method of growing for one particular plant until it is understood what it takes to grow an orchid properly.

Again, it goes back to K.I.S.S.

Originally Posted by nogreenthumbs

If you can accommodate the temperature requirements of a particular orchid outdoors (obviously varies greatly with the local climate) you can very likely manage the rest of the requirements, saving a lot of work and getting some important factors taken care of for free.

I didn't want to make things too complicated on the first run. Growing orchids should not really be this big of a struggle. I'm gonna repeat it just for KokeshiHappyGreen...keep it simple first...

KokeshiHappyGreen, your focus is to grow an adult blooming sized Encyclia cochleata indoors to the best of your ability by using the tried and true method of growing it in a clear plastic pot of appropriate size with medium to large grade bark chips. You are going to grow this orchid in moderately bright indirect light. The amount of air circulation you have going for your orchids is good enough. Try to maintain a moderate humidity of about 50% - 70% as much as possible. It is not necessary to use an aquarium to maintain humidity for this orchid. You can get a warm mist humidifier for use during the winter. Water the orchid when the potting media dries out.

Rock and roll and have fun growing orchids.

---------- Post added at 11:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:56 PM ----------

Tell you what KokeshiHappyGreen, if you want another suggestion for a plant that is virtually indestructible, that can easily be grown, is quite small, and blooms a lot, try Dendrobium normanbyense.

Dendrobium normanbyense 3" pot or mounted

Dendrobium normanbyense – Clown Alley Orchids

Dendrobium in the section Latouria do not have dormancies nor do they go deciduous.

[ShadePlant]

After the King's comments and looking at the orchid, I had to by the orchid.

[Roberta]

Just addressing King's comments... Many orchids are, indeed, fussy about humidity as well as other factors. To grow even the more common ones to perfection can require a lot of effort (to say nothing of expense) Once one gets hooked (most of us who have been doing it for awhile are hopelessly addicted) there's a lifetime of learning . But for someone starting out, it's important to not over-think. Choose plants that are forgiving (and healthy to start with), and focus on the essentials first to keep them that way.

[SaraJean]

Originally Posted by ShadePlant

After the King's comments and looking at the orchid, I had to by the orchid.

I gotta say, these do surprisingly well for us down here and has been one of my least fussy orchids. I kept it outside for all but January, and for that month I just stuck it on a shelf in my outdoor laundry room. It seems to do great (not just tolerate) a wide range of conditions
And the blooms are holding up great, even in all of this heat and rain we have been getting. First bloom popped out a month ago and is still going strong, with three more opened and even more forming now

[KokeshiHappyGreen]

Philip, I'll look at the den you suggested too.

Just one more question in regards to my lighting. Without changing anything, is it sufficient to keep either the encyclia or the den in good health? If not, what would you suggest, since my space is only 16" between shelves/where I could hang more direct lighting.

Thanks

[ShadePlant]

Originally Posted by SaraJean

I gotta say, these do surprisingly well for us down here and has been one of my least fussy orchids. I kept it outside for all but January, and for that month I just stuck it on a shelf in my outdoor laundry room. It seems to do great (not just tolerate) a wide range of conditions
And the blooms are holding up great, even in all of this heat and rain we have been getting. First bloom popped out a month ago and is still going strong, with three more opened and even more forming now

Thank you SaraJean, I just purchased one today so hopefully when it arrives I can make it happy. I plan on keeping it in a pot and hopefully indoors but I am not opposed to outside. I keep my vandas, aerangis, and and brassavola outside. I don't have a shadier spot available doe this guy though unless he can handle aerangis level light.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Originally Posted by KokeshiHappyGreen

Philip, I'll look at the den you suggested too.

Just one more question in regards to my lighting. Without changing anything, is it sufficient to keep either the encyclia or the den in good health? If not, what would you suggest, since my space is only 16" between shelves/where I could hang more direct lighting.

Thanks

The Encyclia cochleata is just about 16" with spike. The plant is pretty small.

The Dendrobium normanbyense is significantly shorter. It should not be much larger than 6" tall, not including the 2" pot. If the plant is larger, then it is its cousin Dendrobium atroviolaceum.

T5 lighting is probably ok. You just have to make sure the Kelvin temperature is between 5,500 K to 6,500 K. The amount of lumens the bulbs should be rated at should preferably be around 1,600 lumens.

[Jakob]

I', a newbie too,
what I'd say is:
All living beings do not have a desire to die and have, to a certain extent, an good enough ability to adapt to any enviroment good enough, to at least survive, provided it is stable enough. They do need a certain period of time to acclimate, and in these period they dont do much.
The point is, plants are already equipped with an equippent to survive many different conditions, you just have to let them use them. If you bother them constantly and change constatly the conditions around them they'll die.
whenever you grow a living being is also good to observe them closely, to see changes and catch problems early. It's also cool to find early little surprises like new growths, flower buds, interesting bugs and such.
Whenever you start a new, possibly overwhelming hobby, especially if you do not have a strong theoretical ground to build on (to explain, in orchidgrowing that'd be basic and advanced principles of biology, botany and plant physiology and/or horticulture), it is a good idea to find information in books and experienced people. Internet requires, that you know what you are doing.
It's also a good idea to pick a person/book and stick to it until you gain experience. There are a lot of conflicting information, as there are a lot of different paths to succesful orchid growing (or really, doing anything). Therefore, in your case, I'd stick with what the King of orchid growing has advised you.
Also there should be a principle beginners Okham's razor: Beginn with the simplest way of doing it, cut out everything unnecessarry. When you begin with a healthy core is much simpler to add on fancy stuff.