Phalaenopsis and Denbrodium Nobile repotting and after care

[D_novice]

Wasn't it this very thread where misting was discussed as more beneficial for humidity than "humidity trays"?

Phals do like humidity. Having said that, hybrid phals for the mass market - which I think is what this is - are tough as tanks. You probably don't need to have perfect culture technique as long as you don't drown it.

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[bil]

Originally Posted by D_novice

Phals do like humidity. Having said that, hybrid phals for the mass market - which I think is what this is - are tough as tanks. You probably don't need to have perfect culture technique as long as you don't drown it.

I'm with you on this. Phals are one of the easiest to grow, I find. As long as you don't do anything crass, they are practically bullet proof.

When I'm told that I mustn't get the crowns wet, I wonder how they survive in the wild without someone to dry their leaves every time there's a mist or rain.

[chantrelle]

Pakmanwong

I understand you so much as I'm also new with Orchids. We kind of want to see right a way if what we have done is correct so we can take corrective mesures now.

I believe that Orchids will teach us much more than just stuff about Orchids.

Maybe, learning we have to let go of some stuff. I'll fallow the advice you got and get enough Phal to get me self busy.

Hope your plants get better in a little while.

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by bil

When I'm told that I mustn't get the crowns wet, I wonder how they survive in the wild without someone to dry their leaves every time there's a mist or rain.

Mother Nature is a lot smarter than we are... in nature, most Phals grow hanging in trees with the crowns pointing downward so water doesn't collect, and spikes waving in the breeze (no little fairies flying around with tissues to blot up excess moisture, and none to stake the spikes either) When we grow them with crowns pointing upward (and so we also have to stake the spikes to keep them from breaking under their own weight, as well as for aesthetics) its not the way that they were evolved to grow, it's more convenient for us. Also, in the tropics, the rain is warm (and frequent) and the air always humid, so they don't get the shocks that they receive from our cold water and dry, heated living spaces. (Much more pleasant for us, however) So we do need make some "unnatural" compensating adjustments for factors that are not a problem in nature.

[estación seca]

Phals are not that easy to grow for many beginners. It depends on the climate; they are warm-weather plants that become easier and easier to kill as ambient temperatures decrease.

Many people keep their houses too cool in the winter for Phals to be happy. Combine this with a tendency to overwater, or a plant in sphagnum that dries out very slowly, and there may be trouble.

For people with cooler houses, intergeneric Oncidiums are probably easier to grow. They are more tolerant of overwatering, and many prefer cooler temperatures that would stress a Phal. Plus a smaller plant will often bloom multiple times per year.

Of course, with experience, most growers can grow most kinds of orchids in their homes, but at the beginning it's nice to have a plant that does well and is easy to grow in one's surroundings.

[bil]

Originally Posted by Roberta

Mother Nature is a lot smarter than we are... in nature, most Phals grow hanging in trees with the crowns pointing downward so water doesn't collect, and spikes waving in the breeze (no little fairies flying around with tissues to blot up excess moisture, and none to stake the spikes either) When we grow them with crowns pointing upward (and so we also have to stake the spikes to keep them from breaking under their own weight, as well as for aesthetics) its not the way that they were evolved to grow, it's more convenient for us. Also, in the tropics, the rain is warm (and frequent) and the air always humid, so they don't get the shocks that they receive from our cold water and dry, heated living spaces. (Much more pleasant for us, however) So we do need make some "unnatural" compensating adjustments for factors that are not a problem in nature.

Yeah, but a couple of points. First of all, get hold of a phal, hold the crown upwards, and try and fill it. Seriously, try keeping it full of water for just 1 minute, and when you can't, ask yourself why people say 'Fill the crown with peroxide for 5 minutes.". As soon as you fill it the water runs away, just leaving a bit between the leaves where capillary action holds it.

Now as you so rightly say, the crowns hang downwards, but they will still get wet, because the rainwater will get between the leaves, and even if the rain couldn't, mist will wet them. I lost a min max thermometer that ran on battery power, because of that. Basically it was outside, it was under an overhang, but because it was cold there in the morning any mist condensated INSIDE the works and shorted it out.

You are SO RIGHT about the cold water. i have had a problem in my greenhouse this winter. Because it has been so cold here, I have had to heat more, and the condensate has been bad. Cold drips on phal leaves have caused damage, and I have lost a couple of leaves as a result.

As you say, rains are frequent there, so we know that they get wetted frequently, and it doesn't cause problems, purely, I think because the water is warm.

Logic shows us water isn't a problem, - remember, I have been soaking my phals for two years, and religiously wetting the crowns, but I have lost none. So, it surely can't be the water, it has to be something else -like cold. We all know chilling a phal is quickly fatal if it goes too cold, so the best advice to people has to be, don't water when it's cold, don't use cold water, and don't water in the evening if there is any chance of evaporative cooling chilling them too much.

---------- Post added at 02:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:07 PM ----------

Originally Posted by estación seca

For people with cooler houses, intergeneric Oncidiums are probably easier to grow. They are more tolerant of overwatering, and many prefer cooler temperatures that would stress a Phal.

Agreed, I can't remember who it was on here that said it, but phals in moss are even less tolerant of cold, than if they are potted in coarse bark, plus, it isn't possible to overwater them when they are in coarse bark.

[Pakmanwong]

Thanks everyone! I am so glad that I have found Orchidboard. Each and everyone is very welling to help with my plants and my emotions. And I realize that plants don't respond like human, it takes time for them to recover and grow. I will do what most of you are telling me, leave my phal alone and let the nature takes its course. I do believe it will fully recover and bloom again!

[D_novice]

Originally Posted by bil

When I'm told that I mustn't get the crowns wet, I wonder how they survive in the wild without someone to dry their leaves every time there's a mist or rain.

Classic!

[D_novice]

Do you (or did you at one time) measure water temp with a thermometer? Is there a more specific range than "warm"? I can imagine that after years of experience you can just feel the water to know, or that you know your water supply / greenhouse well enough to tell.

I would like some guidance on this, for Phals (my small collection is getting smaller and is now skewed towards hybrids, but I still think I could improve my results by upping air and water temps for these plants). Though probably many of my plants would appreciate it.

I collect rainwater which can stay pretty chilly; now currently when it's raining the water from the tap is also pretty darn cold. So I need to adjust it and knowing where it should be would help.

thanks in advance

[bil]

Originally Posted by D_novice

Do you (or did you at one time) measure water temp with a thermometer? Is there a more specific range than "warm"? I can imagine that after years of experience you can just feel the water to know, or that you know your water supply / greenhouse well enough to tell.

I would like some guidance on this, for Phals (my small collection is getting smaller and is now skewed towards hybrids, but I still think I could improve my results by upping air and water temps for these plants). Though probably many of my plants would appreciate it.

I collect rainwater which can stay pretty chilly; now currently when it's raining the water from the tap is also pretty darn cold. So I need to adjust it and knowing where it should be would help.

thanks in advance

Yeah. I am convinced that using water that is too cold is a death sentence if it's below a certain level, or the phal has some other health problem that is weakening it.
If the room they are in is at an OK temp, can you store water there, as if it is at the same ambient temp, in a warm enough room, there should be no risk.

Remember there are reports that phals in moss are far more vulnerable to cold.