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  #11  
Old 02-13-2017, 06:37 PM
jcec1 jcec1 is offline
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Watering, flush or soak?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vpsihop@hotmail.com View Post
Interesting. I may start soaking more of them. Are you all using the same vessel? New vessel and water for every orchid? I imagine cross contamination being an issue
I use separate vessels.

---------- Post added at 10:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by jkofferdahl View Post
It concerns me that you're just rinsing your soaking bowls out with a soapy sponge. Doing so really won't kill or remove any viruses if such exist in your plants. Each plant should be soaked in its own, sterilized container.

I've never really understood regular soaking, and maybe in part because of my philosophy on watering. As I approach it, the roots absorb the water and the media gets wet with a simple, quick flush. The roots will absorb the water quickly. Once the roots and media are wet, it is the roots which provide water to the plant, while the purpose of the media is to insulate the roots from drying too quickly. I can't imagine soaking to be at all detrimental to the plant (unless you leave it too long) but I can't see how it's beneficial either, unless a plant is essentially desiccated.
I've never known how quickly an orchid takes up water, or if there is a cut off switch when it has taken as much as if needs, I have no idea of plant physiology. So I err on soaking them, thinking if they stop taking water in the soak time, then all that is lost is some time, whereas if I didn't give them enough then that could cause problems. Hopefully, someone will chip in with some physiology about water uptake.
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2017, 06:57 PM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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I soak those that have unruly bottom leaves to avoid water get into between the leaves. I do it in separate containers for 10/15 min.
All the other, I flush heavily but only the medium. Spray misting only in summer between waterings, usually everyday.
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2017, 07:27 PM
bil bil is offline
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Soak every orchid separately seems a LOT of work. I'll stick to spraying them.
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2017, 07:52 PM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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Quote:
Soak every orchid separately seems a LOT of work.
I think I don't have not more than 20 plants. For now...

Last edited by rbarata; 02-13-2017 at 08:10 PM..
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2017, 08:56 PM
jkofferdahl jkofferdahl is offline
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Originally Posted by jcec1 View Post
I've never known how quickly an orchid takes up water, or if there is a cut off switch when it has taken as much as if needs, I have no idea of plant physiology. So I err on soaking them, thinking if they stop taking water in the soak time, then all that is lost is some time, whereas if I didn't give them enough then that could cause problems. Hopefully, someone will chip in with some physiology about water uptake.
When you gently spray a root it turns a light green, indicating it's taken some water. If you put a root under a stream of water it very quickly turns a darker green indicating that the velamen is fully soaked, at which point it's absorbed all of the water it can. After that, additional water - say flushing - only serves to flush deposits from the pot.

Once the roots have absorbed the water, your job is done. While the potting media may absorb water, some of which may soak into the velamen, the main purpose of the potting media is to insulate the roots so that they don't dry too quickly under our less than ideal conditions. Roots in sphagnum remain soaked not because of all of the water in the sphagnum but because the roots can't get any air movement and the water can't evaporate, though in this case the roots do get water from the medium. Too much water, and not enough air. The reason Phals, for example, do so well on mounts is because they really are almost air plants, and the humidity slows the evaporative process from the roots. Every mounted Phal I own have root systems most orchids would kill for, and those in baskets are close behind. When the roots dry, I water them.
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  #16  
Old 02-14-2017, 12:41 AM
UserName UserName is offline
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Mine soak, one at a time, and in a particular order, in a wide stainless steel mixing bowl. Between uses the bowl is washed with hot water/detergent/ammonia solution, rinsed very well, and dried.

I do longer soaking periods for increased humidity and more (hydration) endurance for the plants – hoping it buys more time (than otherwise) until the next watering will be needed. I am supposed to take a great deal of rest and keep off my feet as much as I (practically) can. I suppose I am influenced by my particularly thirsty terrestrial plants too. Most every spring, our lawn suffers from drought. When we have given it enough water for long enough for the grass to restore itself to nice green condition, giving the ground more water then helps the grass to hold off dehydration. Same with hydrangeas having wilted from heat and/or dry conditions – when they have perked back up after a good watering, they are very nearly in need of more water because of having taken up so much water from their soil; giving them more water then helps hold off their next wilting. [Is it okay to mention other plant types on here?]
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  #17  
Old 02-14-2017, 05:25 AM
bil bil is offline
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Mine soak, one at a time, and in a particular order, in a wide stainless steel mixing bowl. Between uses the bowl is washed with hot water/detergent/ammonia solution, rinsed very well, and dried.

I do longer soaking periods for increased humidity and more (hydration) endurance for the plants – hoping it buys more time (than otherwise) until the next watering will be needed. I am supposed to take a great deal of rest and keep off my feet as much as I (practically) can. I suppose I am influenced by my particularly thirsty terrestrial plants too. Most every spring, our lawn suffers from drought. When we have given it enough water for long enough for the grass to restore itself to nice green condition, giving the ground more water then helps the grass to hold off dehydration. Same with hydrangeas having wilted from heat and/or dry conditions – when they have perked back up after a good watering, they are very nearly in need of more water because of having taken up so much water from their soil; giving them more water then helps hold off their next wilting. [Is it okay to mention other plant types on here?]
A question. How short do you cut your grass? Only I have a good reason for asking.
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  #18  
Old 02-14-2017, 06:41 AM
Orchid Whisperer Orchid Whisperer is offline
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I mostly am a "flusher". I do soak plants that seem to have gotten too dehydrated, and need a boost.
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  #19  
Old 02-14-2017, 11:56 PM
UserName UserName is offline
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Originally Posted by bil View Post
A question. How short do you cut your grass? Only I have a good reason for asking.
My husband cuts it. He is not sure of the measurement, but he is sure that he leaves it at least 3" in grass blade length/height -- he does not "scalp" it. He mows sections of the yard only as they really need it. It is very thirsty centipede grass, most of it in full sun. All else (elevation and lack of water) being equal, it takes our lawn days longer to get toasted than those mowed more often and/or cut appreciably shorter.
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  #20  
Old 02-15-2017, 08:24 AM
bil bil is offline
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My husband cuts it. He is not sure of the measurement, but he is sure that he leaves it at least 3" in grass blade length/height -- he does not "scalp" it. He mows sections of the yard only as they really need it. It is very thirsty centipede grass, most of it in full sun. All else (elevation and lack of water) being equal, it takes our lawn days longer to get toasted than those mowed more often and/or cut appreciably shorter.
Ah, gramon is it? I haven't experience of that, but the point I was going to make was, the longer the blade of grass, the more dew it catches.
My mother always demanded that I cut the front lawn at about 2", and left to my own devices, I would do the rest of the garden at 4-6 inches. The front lawn always looked sad and brown in the summer while the rest of the garden had lush green grass.

I'd suggest you try leaving some patches longer and experiment to see what length minimises the need for watering, unless that causes some godawful problem with gramon that I am not aware of.
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