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  #1  
Old 02-08-2017, 11:20 PM
dounoharm dounoharm is offline
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today, in my greenhouse, I was working away, and BAM! it hit me that there are probably many orchid (and other plant) newbies that just haven't had the benefit of a farming family and a horticultural degree....and don't know some little things.....like:

never fertilize or spray with insecticide on a DRY plant! water normally first, then do your fert or spraying...that way the plant/media is already wet and will absorb the treatment....I don't think I have ever seen that in any instruction, but it is so important!

whatever you do, DO IT BEFORE NOON! that allows the plant to dry out before it goes to sleep. that keeps the plant strong against bacteria like crown rot.

most spray treatments fert or insecticide will need what is called a SPREADER/STICKER...this is simply a bit of dish soap in the spray (I like that peppermint oil soap) to assist it to hang on long enough to work!

an orchid of most kind aspirates (breaths) from 'stomata' on the UNDERSIDE of the leaves....try to wet that part and your plant will love you!

I know I left out a lot of stuff that most of us take for granted.....but you all can pitch in with little hints of your own at this point! good luck all, and enjoy your plants!

KISS and don't sweat the small stuff...everything is small stuff!
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  #2  
Old 02-09-2017, 06:11 AM
bil bil is offline
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I'd argue one point or two.

Firstly, if you water and then fertilise, the plant will take up the water and then not take up the fertiliser.

I think it is better to go to Ray's First Ray's site and read up on fertilisers, and use his calculator to devise the lowest dose for your fertiliser, then use that on every watering.

That way your plant gets the best doseage regularly.

Secondly, deliberately wetting the leaves is dangerous. Not for all orchids tho, Phals for example couldn't give a damn where the water goes, but if you get water in the crowns of some plants, like young catasetums, or other plants where the leaves are tightly held together, there is a high chance of rot starting.

So, it's best to wet the medium, not the plant.

Also, as you say, water in the morning is best, but also keep the water overnight in the same place as the orchids, so that there is no cold shock for the plants.
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  #3  
Old 02-09-2017, 08:36 AM
PaphMadMan PaphMadMan is offline
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Water and then fertilize is a common professional horticulture practice because it can be far more efficient and controlled use of fertilizer on a large scale where cost matters. Either works if done correctly.

The best advice for any beginner is to pick a good fertilizer and use it consistently but very lightly.
Then, until you have perfected nearly everything else you do for your orchids it will never be the limiting factor in your success. Study other things first. Most who take it very seriously are deluding themselves unless they are using hydroponic methods, and you will see completely incompatible methods fiercely advocated.

Every plant gets wet leaves in nature. It all depends on how and when.
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Old 02-09-2017, 10:34 AM
bil bil is offline
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Originally Posted by PaphMadMan View Post
Water and then fertilize is a common professional horticulture practice because it can be far more efficient and controlled use of fertilizer on a large scale where cost matters. Either works if done correctly.

The best advice for any beginner is to pick a good fertilizer and use it consistently but very lightly.
Then, until you have perfected nearly everything else you do for your orchids it will never be the limiting factor in your success. Study other things first. Most who take it very seriously are deluding themselves unless they are using hydroponic methods, and you will see completely incompatible methods fiercely advocated.

Every plant gets wet leaves in nature. It all depends on how and when.
But surely, if you water first then the plant can't take up the fertiliser well?
It's like if I gave you a pint of water before I gave you a beer, you'd be unlikely to drink much of the beer.

As for wet leaves, you are spot on, but in our hands, orchids are very unlikely to get 100% optimum conditions, and since persistent water in some crowns is almost a guarantee of rot, I just think it pays to be cautious. Plus, ask Ray.. Very few orchids have thin enough leaves to absorb nutrients, and I would suspect those are some of the worst to get wet.
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Old 02-09-2017, 01:22 PM
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Ray Ray is offline
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And technically, plants do not absorb liquids through stomata. The do so through cells that are closely associated with them, though...
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  #6  
Old 02-09-2017, 01:37 PM
Optimist Optimist is offline
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I have a kind of cognitive dissonance regarding the imperative to never water at night etc. As Per your quote:

"whatever you do, DO IT BEFORE NOON! that allows the plant to dry out before it goes to sleep. that keeps the plant strong against bacteria like crown rot."

Many orchids grow naturally in the monsoon zones of the world. Monsoon rains begin when the daily heat begins to cool down. So, you have every day, at 5pm rain starts, it rains all night, and then it damps down as the sun starts to come up. (Often it never does).

So, are all the orchids in Asia, India, and other areas going to die of "rot?" They are basically swimming in the shower for 8-10 hours at night when they are supposed to be "breathing" (CAM 4 plants).

Maybe you can explain this better?
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  #7  
Old 02-09-2017, 02:26 PM
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fishmom fishmom is offline
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Of course you are right, Optimist. There are a few things to consider, though, for those of us who do not live in the tropics and grow in less warm conditions:

1. Orchids in the wild mostly hang down, or at least at an angle, so they drain better from the crown if that is important for survival.

2. Warm conditions in between showers, along with brisk breezes, will help prevent rot.

3. Maybe continual showers at all hours rinse bad organisms off the plants?

Just my few thoughts.
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Old 02-09-2017, 02:55 PM
bil bil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishmom View Post
Of course you are right, Optimist. There are a few things to consider, though, for those of us who do not live in the tropics and grow in less warm conditions:

1. Orchids in the wild mostly hang down, or at least at an angle, so they drain better from the crown if that is important for survival.

You nailed it with the point about less than perfect conditions. That's why we have to be that bit more careful.
One point tho. While they hang down, they will still get wet, and that water will wick upwards into the crowns pdq, so that is still a risk.
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Old 02-09-2017, 07:52 PM
dounoharm dounoharm is offline
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i was never a cautious waterer...a little more careful in the house maybe...but i think all plants like a little rain....and in the greenhouse, its a monsoon when i water, lol.....i think they like it!....that's one reason i have big gravel trays under all the inside plants, lol....so, its whatever works actually....and never let your house orchids be wet at nite unless you want loads of bacterial issues....

and yes, i do have a formal education in horticulture and greenhouse management....maybe a bit old fashioned....lol

its nice to have input from many growers who grow under varying conditions....

---------- Post added at 07:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:51 PM ----------

hot and dry = scale and mealies

cold and wet= crown rot and horrible roots
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  #10  
Old 02-09-2017, 08:24 PM
Optimist Optimist is offline
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Explain paphiopedilums, and oncidiums which seem to always point upwards not down. Sorry, but most natural in-situ photos have the orchid facing up towards the sun and of course the rain. Crown rot is a "inside the house" disease for orchids, not one that hits them in nature.

And in nature, plants never have any fertilizer and so on, or insect repellent. Not saying they cannot get infested. In fact, I have been hearing of some that are regularly cultivated, roasted and eaten by indigenous people.

I personally do not agree with what you are saying in reference to "never do" so and so. I live in an area that gets 80s, 105 F range and have my orchids outside (this year with a spray) and even in the winter (they are kept in the house November, December, January, and most of February) I plop the water right on top of them. I have never, ever had crown rot. My problem has been not watering them enough. Even in the winter, in the house they seem to need 2 waterings per day.

---------- Post added at 05:24 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:19 PM ----------

This may sound crazy, because in Minas Geras in December, it is the Monsoon.
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