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  #11  
Old 01-15-2017, 01:14 PM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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From my experience (which is not much) buds and new growths at the same time is not the natural sequence of events.

In my view, nitrogen is not good for bud formation but it's good for new growths. Since your flowers are already formed, but you already have new growths, the logical conclusion would be to start now. I advised the middle term between Jan and Apr just for caution.

Last edited by rbarata; 01-15-2017 at 01:21 PM..
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2017, 02:20 PM
katrina katrina is offline
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If you're talking about nobile dens...are you getting new shoots from the base or are you seeing growth development along the canes?

Typically nobile type flower and then produce shoots from the base. Typically being the key word but, as we all know, sometimes these plants have their own minds about things.

If the growths are along the canes...no fert until after blooms have faded. If actual new shoots...I would prob wait awhile in order to hopefully get the plant back on track toward a more usual schedule.
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2017, 03:42 PM
bil bil is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbarata View Post
From my experience (which is not much) buds and new growths at the same time is not the natural sequence of events.

In my view, nitrogen is not good for bud formation but it's good for new growths. Since your flowers are already formed, but you already have new growths, the logical conclusion would be to start now. I advised the middle term between Jan and Apr just for caution.
Oh I've got them all, bl**dy minded little s*ds. Buds on some, shoots on some and a couple with both.

Such fun.
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2017, 04:24 PM
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Once they are surely buds, I would begin fertilizing. Others might not.
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  #15  
Old 01-15-2017, 06:58 PM
bil bil is offline
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Once they are surely buds, I would begin fertilizing. Others might not.
Yeah, that seems logical.
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  #16  
Old 01-15-2017, 07:40 PM
Dollythehun Dollythehun is offline
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Bil, can you take a picture for me when you get to shoot/bud stage? I think I see swelling on mine but, it might be wishful thinking.
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Old 01-15-2017, 08:10 PM
bil bil is offline
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Bil, can you take a picture for me when you get to shoot/bud stage? I think I see swelling on mine but, it might be wishful thinking.
My camera is fairly crappy. Look for conical growths n the opposite side to a leaf.
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  #18  
Old 01-15-2017, 08:34 PM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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Buds grow with a distinctive pattern: one in each node of the cane, alternating on both sides of the cane.
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  #19  
Old 01-15-2017, 09:44 PM
mexicowpants mexicowpants is offline
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Quote:
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Oh I've got them all, bl**dy minded little s*ds. Buds on some, shoots on some and a couple with both.

Such fun.
Hahaha, glad to hear I'm not the only one... TBH, I haven't even stopped fertilizing, as my situation is even more confusing. I always understood that you should stop fertilizing when they stop actively growing, i.e. when they form their terminal node/leaf, and start fertilizing again when they start producing new growths. Thing is, by the time most of mine had produced their terminal node and leaf, they'd already started with a new growth from the base.
I'm thinking I could end up with a stupid amount of keikis this year... 😂

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Last edited by mexicowpants; 01-15-2017 at 09:49 PM..
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2017, 12:10 AM
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My understanding is that fertilizing too late in the summer prevents flowering. The previously-quoted link says to stop fertilizing before August. If not, rather than flowers, the plants form keikiis.

Too-warm nights also prevent flowering. I infer, from reading the Yamamoto descriptions of their plants (the wholesale descriptions are more detailed than the retail descriptions) some hybrids are more tolerant of warm fall/winter temperatures than others, when it comes to flowering.

I suspect shoot formation is related to warm temperatures, and may occur whenever temperatures are warm enough. My sunroom and the central Mexican plateau are probably warmer in the day than are Himalayan foothills.
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