How to do the shadow test (and how to 'read' it)

[MrHappyRotter]

Originally Posted by jkofferdahl

This is the way a lot of orchid growers start out, and in my opinion it can lead to disappointment.

It could also lead to death, but considering I don't know much about Joshaeus's tastes in orchids or growing conditions, for that matter, I think having an idea of what that person likes could help some of us provide some suggestions and/or feedback on good plants to start.

[Joshaeus]

Originally Posted by MrHappyRotter

It could also lead to death, but considering I don't know much about Joshaeus's tastes in orchids or growing conditions, for that matter, I think having an idea of what that person likes could help some of us provide some suggestions and/or feedback on good plants to start.

I'm not picky...it just needs to flower reliably, and I prefer larger flowers to numerous smaller ones (that proceed to make a mess when they inevitably drop). I like D. dracula, but obviously a plant that needs temps in the 50's is NOT a good beginner plant.

[rbarata]

So, tell us more detailed info about your growing conditions

Windowsill?
If yes, what's the direction of the window? North, South, etc
What the shadow test tell you?

Temp? More or less is enough

Humidity?

Can you post some photos of the growing place? That would be great.

[estación seca]

The limiting factors are the growing conditions: winter low temperatures, summer high temperatures, ambient relative humidity, how much and what kind of light is available, and whether you are willing to grow in a terrarium or provide artificial light at any time of the year.

There are large-flowered orchids not too difficult to grow in many situations. rbarata's questions will help us find them for you.

[Joshaeus]

Originally Posted by rbarata

So, tell us more detailed info about your growing conditions

Windowsill?
If yes, what's the direction of the window? North, South, etc
What the shadow test tell you?

Temp? More or less is enough

Humidity?

Can you post some photos of the growing place? That would be great.

Temp is typically within 60 to 80 f year round. Humidity is about 40-50 without a wet pebble tray (could be much higher with one). I have a south window, but it has a pair of shrubs inconveniently in front of it...not to mention that, as my only window, it may have an air conditioner in it in summer and thus force me to move the plant a number of feet away from the window (so...no Vandas! ) My house is in zone 5. I did a shadow test yesterday that confirmed that my entire room (WITHOUT the daylight bulb) is bright enough for low light plants (which doesn't really include any orchids, alas ) but yesterday was very overcast (and not to mention we're in the dead of winter up here in New England), so I don't know how much light this window can get. Will do another shadow test today at 11 shortly before I leave for work...

---------- Post added at 09:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:15 AM ----------

CORRECTION! I discovered this morning that I was doing the shadow test wrong...I was literally holding my hand a foot ABOVE the paper irregardless of whether any light was coming from above, rather than simply holding my hand a foot closer to the window. As a result of applying this discovery, I have found that virtually my entire room is bright enough for medium light plants and that a couple feet from the window is full sunlight that would happily burn the color out of a lower light orchid :O
Suffice to say...I am more flexible about where I put my plants.

[Theodore Horstmann]

When refering to the level of light, does it mean the average throughout the day or the highest intensity that an orchid will be exposed to?

R/

Ted

[rbarata]

When refering to the level of light, does it mean the average throughout the day or the highest intensity that an orchid will be exposed to?

The average is what matters, as long as the higher intensity is not too much for too much time (obviously depending on the orchid genus).

Temp is typically within 60 to 80 f year round. Humidity is about 40-50 without a wet pebble tray (could be much higher with one). I have a south window, but it has a pair of shrubs inconveniently in front of it...not to mention that, as my only window, it may have an air conditioner in it in summer and thus force me to move the plant a number of feet away from the window (so...no Vandas! )

Those temps and humidity are ok for most of the orchids usually found in the market.
Now, about light... those shrubs in front of the window. It all depends on their position relatively to the window. In winter the sun is lower so a shrub probably will interrupt sunlight. But in summer, with the sun higher in the sky, may it won't. It's hard to say without being there. That's why I asked for a photo.

[Joshaeus]

The light was at 9 in the morning...it is probably close to the average.

[Ray]

When you read that a certain plant has a light recommendation of "x", it is often referring to the maximum intensity of natural sunlight it can take.

If you're using artificial light that is a constant intensity while it's on, use about 50% of that recommended level.

[Joshaeus]

From doing some more observation, it appears that the south window receives direct sun until about 2-3pm, when it becomes obstructed by the second, taller bush. It starts before 8 am, so anything directly in the window has better be able to handle direct sun for a while.

Just a question, but...for plants (such as Phaelaenopsis) that can't handle direct sun, could I simply place them on the edge of the window (preferably the end that gets morning sun)? Thankx for all the help thus far!