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10-21-2016, 10:37 PM
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If you have Cattleyas and Dendrobiums that are shaky in the pot, it might be wise to stake them or wire them in the pot as the roots of Cattleyas and Dendrobiums prefer not to be disturbed. That is why it is usually recommended to pot them when they are just starting new roots on a new growth. When the roots hold the plant firmly, only then remove the stakes or wire.
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10-21-2016, 11:02 PM
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there are good sellers on ebay....you just need to learn a bit more.....and you have learned one big lesson with that one....not to worry tho, we all make errors in learning to grow a new type of plant! kawamotos, peaandshell, both have big orchid greenhouses in Hawaii and are really good to deal with. orchids by hausermanns in Chicago is great too, but they don't ebay....I think its better when you first start out to buy a nice big blooming plant so you have an idea what one LOOKS like, then you go back in size till you feel confidence in growing seedlings and such....but give yourself a little gratification at first...after all, you are worth it, right?
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10-22-2016, 01:09 AM
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Well I felt gratified with my Big 3 and wanted to move on to new types and back up size...
but man it ain't easy!
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10-22-2016, 03:33 AM
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I see nothing wrong with what you have, there, as long as it has healthy eyes and you are willing to take good care of it and treat it correctly.
Most of my early Cattleyas were about that good (the rootless, tiny seedling that was the actual first orchid was probably worse). Somehow they all survived, along with the single, rootless canes of Dendrobium that I found at a conservatory. Without the internet offering options as it does today, I was pretty thrilled to find any orchid. (I had no idea that orchid societies existed.)
Cattleyas are tough orchids. If we think about it, the first ones ever exported to Europe were used as packing material. :|
You will need to be patient and take good care of the orchid until it gets a new growth. Stake or wire it firmly so that it cannot wiggle in the pot and keep it either under a grow light for twelve hours (if it is a once-a-year blooming orchid) or, if it blooms twice a year, a warm, south-facing window so that it gets the idea that it should grow. I like to 'plant' these (staked well) on top of the medium and water the medium underneath like crazy to keep up the humidity (I use red lava rock). When the roots come, they grow down into the medium. I do not remove the stakes until the roots firmly hold the orchid. Good luck! The pictures of what this is show a beautiful orchid!
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10-22-2016, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
a warm, south-facing window so that it gets the idea that it should grow.
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does this window need to have a sheer curtain to prevent sunburn?
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10-22-2016, 01:14 PM
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No, you will not need a sheer curtain. The rule of thumb for all plants that need more light is to gradually introduce it to the sun so that it doesn't burn. Set it just out of the sun's reach for the first few days and then gradually move it into the window. I am guessing, though, that it has been growing in more light so if you have just had it for a couple of days, you can put it right into the window. Usually, the slow introduction is more common for plants that have been indoors for the winter and are being put out to enjoy the summer sun.
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10-29-2016, 02:59 PM
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Well I was adjusting the curtain dressing on this window and the plant was knocked to the ground spilling half of it's bark on the floor.
While gathering it back I got a chance to peak down at the roots which I had not done up until this point.
They looked very immobile, shriveled and dry after I had just given them a thorough soaking 2 days ago.
When I was watering it seemed that the usually flattish pseudobulb on this plant was fattening up (or was that my imagination?) and the top part of the roots looked alive and greenish.
Now the flat pseudobulb was back and the roots stiff & dryish.
I do not want to wreck this plant by overwatering but I do want it to be hydrated enough.
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10-30-2016, 06:34 PM
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bump.
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11-02-2016, 10:55 AM
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In large bark it might, indeed, need watering every 1-2 days if the air is dry. Have you tried the skewer watering technique? It's in a sticky thread in the Beginners forum.
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11-02-2016, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estación seca
In large bark it might, indeed, need watering every 1-2 days if the air is dry. Have you tried the skewer watering technique? It's in a sticky thread in the Beginners forum.
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Yes I use the skewer and like it on most plants.
Pretty large bark, I had been holding back water in tune with my Phals. weekly routine check but maybe I should put this plant on a different schedule?
I watered it last night & the plant seemed to smile & to firm up a bit. It had been 5 days since it's last soaking.
Last edited by charlesf6; 11-03-2016 at 12:26 PM..
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