Orchid Cattleya warneri var.Alba

[silken]

You should have some orchid shows in your area where you can buy from many vendors and see what you are getting. Good lucK. That back bulb can survive but as mentioned, is a ways from blooming. Many need 3 or 4 growths before they bloom and some only produce 1 growth per year.

[bil]

Originally Posted by charlesf6

Her response to me:



Almost all orchid plants from nurseries come bare with dry roots, but they are all alive.

That is complete bullcrap. I would demand refund of what you paid plus the cost of posting it back. I regard this as essentially fraud. The idea of sending a single pBulb in a dodgy state is criminal. I would SLATE her on ebay for this and give her a lousy review.

My advice is, never buy cheap orchids, and stick to reputable dealers. Google orchid nurseries and spend some time studying what's available.

Better luck next time.

[charlesf6]

She still states:

"The plant is alive and looks as pictured, I always try to make pictures that show actual plants and their condition, so buyers could see what they will get."

She now offers that I can keep it at the $7.00 cost or send it back for the full $15.00 refund (charged $8.00 shp.)

[charlesf6]

Originally Posted by Tetra73

Light green or lime green leaves indicating the orchid is getting enough sun. Dark, dark green means it isn't getting enough sun.

Does this hold true to all orchids or Cattleya only?

[u bada]

actually, more or less, but some species naturally have dark leaves, just have to see mature plants online to get an idea, but yes in general, medium to light medium leaves is best for most species...

so yikes, yeah that guy doesn't look too great... for 1 pseudobulb of 7 bucks that's not bad, but the pbulb should be at least a full/fat one if the roots aren't good... but with roots good and pbulb not full/fat, just not a good sign. it's hard to plump up a pbulb without roots, so I would just send it back myself.

that said, an alba form of warneri isn't exactly common, in fact any particular form of most cattleya species tend to command a higher price, so it wouldn't have been a terrible deal at all... but again, it's not in a good state, and I'd say you'd have a heck of a time getting that to where it should be...

[katrina]

I would like to point out that the seller sent the plant in the picture so I don't understand how anyone can say that he/she was being dishonest.

The general consensus is 3 pbulbs (or more) is always going to be better and IME, that is true. However, it's not like the seller pulled a bait and switch. I would never sell something that looks like that but I have been gifted single back-bulbs from other growers and while it takes a very long time for them to do anything...if they had viable eyes, they did eventually grow.

If that were mine...I would not spend the money to send it back. I would simply stick it in a pot w/a few strands of sphagnum in the bottom. Just set it in the pot and rest it against the side and/or secure it a bit so it doesn't wobble around because if it does begin to grow roots you don't want to accidentally damage the new growing tips because if they get damaged they can stop growing. I would give it some water a couple/three times a week and wait and watch to see if it's going to do something. Bright light but no direct sun. If it has a viable growing eye then there is a strong chance it will grow on. But expect a long wait. If it does have some viable roots, some fert and kelp would also be beneficial.

When I first started growing orchids I bought some pretty sad looking plants...it's part of the learning process and you shouldn't feel bad. If nothing else, this could be a great learning experience. It was cheap so you aren't out much but you might gain a lot of experience for that $7.

In the future, best to stick w/3 or more growths on plants so you have a better start. Any orchid that has multiple growths always do better when you start w/3 or more pbulbs...the energy stored in those backbulbs help to push the new growth.

EDIT - adding - as for the dark vs light green leaves...there are many orchids that have exceptionally dark leaves when they are getting enough light. As an example - C perrinii and many of it's offspring have leaves that are so dark they are almost purple...and that is at the highest end of their light limits. Rlc glauca and digbyana have fairly dark leaves...even when grown in full sun. Many phals have naturally darker leaves and more sun will only burn them. The color thing is a decent base start but don't take it as a solid rule for all orchids.

[charlesf6]

haven't watered for a week, just left alone in pot.
time to water?

[silken]

Only you can determine if it is time, since everyone's conditions vary. If it is dry right thru, then it is time.

[charlesf6]

Thanks, it's just that I have become adjusted (thanks to you guys here mostly) to the wants and needs of my three big guys (Phals) with shish-ka-bob sticks, color and texture of root systems, weight of plant pots etc.

But now I'm a little leery of my 3 new little acquisitions,
2 Cattleya's and a Dendrobium. They're all a little shaky in there new plastic pots which aren't clear to help me view them.

They have to adhere there roots to the new bark medium so I don't want to keep pulling them out to view.

I just do not want to flood them.

[estación seca]

When you water them, you will flood them. Then let them dry again. For your Cattleya, the higher you can keep the humidity while waiting for new roots and growth, the better.