i need help please

[Ray]

Daniel, cut the spikes off altogether.

The idea is to remove anything that will take energy away from the plant's efforts to grow new roots. Partially cutting the spike and applying Keiki-Grow to the node is encouraging the formation of a new plant, which defeats that purpose.

One might argue that the keiki-Grow might result in you having a plant when the "mother plant" dies, but in my opinion, you're less likely to be successful with that, considering its current condition.

If I have misunderstood, and you have applied the Keiki-Grow to the nodes of the spikes you removed, then just throw them away. There is insufficient resources within a spike to grow a new plant to the point of being viable.

[daniel]

yes ray i remove the spikes and there is no keiki grow on the plant . i hope for the best. if i knew sooner about cuting the spike she would had a better chance. but that is part of learning.

[Orchidaholic]

Originally Posted by Ray

If I have misunderstood, and you have applied the Keiki-Grow to the nodes of the spikes you removed, then just throw them away. There is insufficient resources within a spike to grow a new plant to the point of being viable.

I have propagated quite a few viable PHALS/DTPS from "used" cut flower spikes. It is a quicker process if you propagate from a fresh flower spike (unflowered), but Daniels look pretty green and healthy and should be able to produce keiki's after being cut from the mother plant...
With this being said, I also can produce keiki's quite readily on cut dendrobium stems, both soft and hard cane types. The ladder of which everyone says is impossible to keiki after being cut...

[Ray]

Interesting. Mine have always just grow leaves, but faded away before roots could form.

You're not referring to in-vitro culture, are you?

[daniel]

i did apply some Kelli grow on my the node of my cut stem . i am trying the lotte & thomas orchid way . i have 8 on soil . but i am trying a other way also 10 in sterile water jar. can you tell me which way you had success with this ?

[Orchidaholic]

For myself, I do NOT do In-Vito culture, to much sterilization involved for the hobby's concern. I also do not apply anything artificial... no chemicals, fertilizers nor hormones in the reproduction processes... I just use high humidity and good old fashioned "Biospheres"... A biosphere is an continual replenishing environment that needs no maintenance ever, or much less frequently at least... Since orchid roots need a transfer of CO2 out of the medium and be replenished by O2 I grow out unfalsked plants and stem propagated Phals/DTPS/Phius in enclosed environments with the aid of live sphagnum moss that is readily available naturally in my state. In tern the plants get a constant supply of O2 during the time of photosynthesis (which I do under two 4', 40W t5's per 4' X2' bay). As with all plants, the processes are reversed during night, O2 is used in conjunction with sugars/starches to produce CO2 in the absence of light. To adjust for this factor I leave the lights on for 14~16 hrs a day <- this is a much debated topic with orchids, mainly in what amount of light becomes non essential to an orchid or weather to much light is detrimental to an orchid.,. After the original production of "keiki" and transfer to "biosphere" I have not lost a plant yet. Like I stated, this is only a hobby for me and I have only cloned about 200 or so plants in these means. Ray if you wish more info from my technique I would gladly send a PM.
Daniel the ones in soil may work but the ones in the H2O will look well for about 5 days or so and then liquefy within 8~10 hours from a massive bacterial/fungal infection... It is actually pretty informative to witness so leave 1or2 in the water and move the other 8. For experiment #3, Place the other 8 onto moss of sorts. Take a trek into nature and find a moss that readily grows in nature in Canada. Place this moss in the bottom of a 2QT(1/2 Gallon) clear container that can be sealed. Place the node cuttings on top of the moss and seal the container and place the container under fluorescent lighting (not in a window or any direct sunlight, sunlight will super heat the micro environment of the container well above the tolerance of any orchid). A note to the native moss, If at all possible search for native sphagnum moss, most other mosses(not all) will die out or weaken whereas the sphagnum will take well to the "biosphere and grow rapidly. The growth and health of the moss in this environment will intern effect the health of the young keiki that may form from the flower spike of your phal. If done properly, a "biosphere" can maintain the life of an orchid for a year or 2 without any maintenance(no need to open and re~water or fertilize)... This way of propagating orchids has a science to it, to much or to little water in the container can be detrimental.

[Orchidaholic]

P.S. Sorry for writing a freakin novel....There is much more to this, but the description atleast gets the basics and a little more

[daniel]

it really good info . i really appreciate .but i have a problem here sphagnum moss is under 6 feet of Snow's did lots of store around here and they said that they will have some in the spring ? if i can keep node alive till a get some moss in 8 weeks or more. when the snow is gone ?but you say there more info detail.

[Singingirl96]

not looking good.... but keep trying anyway.

[daniel]

good news , roots are starting to grow :-) after 3 months in the bag . i have roots yes yes yes.thanks for your good advice ....you folks are great..