Bare Root Method for Phals

[jh0330u]

Originally Posted by Arizona Jeanie

I've had one phal growing in a vase with no media for several months now, and it's looking good. I broke the first pint size glass vase and moved the phal into a quart canning jar, it quickly filled in the jar with healthy roots. When it was very hot and dry this summer, I filled the jar daily, let it soak about 2 hours, then drained completely. The roots were always dry by nighttime. Weather has cooled off now, so I'm soaking it three days a week for several hours each, again draining it completely and letting roots dry by night. I fertilize weekly/weakly, and have been draining that water off to the irises outside-we'll see if that helps! The roots seem ok with the amount of movement they get, and the leaves are quite healthy, holding the top of the plant up out of the jar. It's sitting on the kitchen windowsill, it's fun to see the roots in the jar. I'm not sure what this is called, to me it's hydoponics, nothing "semi" about it. I wouldn't put peroxide anywhere on my plants--use some KelpMax from First Rays if you want to get the roots going. If there are no roots left, you can still sometimes salvage the plant but it's a slow process, again the KelpMax will speed it up.

Currently, I have my plant in a clean coffee mug suspended at the top with no medium. I am submerging approximately 1/4 (trying to give every root tip contact with water) for approximately 15~45 min daily in tap water and sometimes gently wetting the roots once in the morning. Within 12 hours time, the roots are completely white/silver (which I believe, means it is not currently drinking water). I am unsure of the sweet spot on how long to leave the plant in the silvery stage.

Root rot for me is a big issue. If I am unable to contain the situation, my plant will loose all of its roots (like my first phal, so I know from experience). Currently the plant has lost many of its roots but after two trimmings of the rotten roots over a two week span, I believe most of the illness is contained but I moved to this method for better air circulation and view of the roots. I wouldn't think many of us would use H2O2 on healthy plants, but if I see any more root rot I will be forced to try the H2O2 method. Marlena also stated that she added H2O2 to her water with positive results so I definitely will try it if needed.

I just looked through First Rays. I would definitely consider KelpMax in the future for better/important plants. I have read many positive accounts of success with that. However, for my two phals, one having zero roots left and the other being a sick phal to begin with (bought for $3.50), it doesn't seem like a viable option for me at the moment.

However, I stumbled on this link. homeguides.sfgate.com/can-use-promote-root-growth-75498.html
under the natural source section, it stated, "...kelp, granite meal, greensand and wood ashes are excellent sources of potassium." Which got me thinking, I do have some dried kelp at home (for soup base), maybe I could boil it and water it with that water? I think it sounds silly, so silly it might even work?

---------- Post added at 01:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:20 AM ----------

oh yea, I am currently just using tap water. I feel like I should add some kind of extra "food/nutrition"?

[Marlena]

Originally Posted by jh0330u

I had a sick phal which lost many roots due to root rot.
I had removed all the rotten roots and put uncut root tips into water for five days.
They all became mushy.

I guess the mistake I made was leaving root-to-water contact for too long (some people leave their plants having water contact all the time but these plants have been given a chance to slowly adapt?). In a earlier reply I read that you should only keep the roots in water for approximately 15min~1hour a week.
I am guessing this is the mistake I made? Am i right?

From what I've read, this is the roots making a shift from bark to water type roots and the new roots will have shifted into water roots. This is oversimplified, but apparently biologically sound.

[Ray]

When roots grow, they tailor themselves, on a microscopic level, to function optimally in the environment they're in. If you change that environment, they will no longer function optimally, and will ultimately fail.

If you time transplanting to coincide with the emergence of new roots from the base of the plant, then they will take over and support the plant. If you don't time it properly, the plant will have less and less ability to take in water as the old roots fail, and will be stressed. In such a case, adding a good stimulant like KelpMax can be a huge help.

In the case of true water culture, in which the roots are constantly submerged, the new roots will adapt just fine, as long as the water is kept warm enough. For plants that have their roots immersed and drained, the open air is the medium they "see," so I suppose that is what they will adjust to.

[bil]

"When roots grow, they tailor themselves, on a microscopic level, to function optimally in the environment they're in. If you change that environment, they will no longer function optimally, and will ultimately fail."

Doesn't that mean that if you 'sphag & Bag" an orchid and then pot it in bark, that will set it back?

[estación seca]

The idea is you move it from the bag to the pot when the roots are just starting, so they have an opportunity to adapt as they're growing. Same with moving from anything to anything. It is especially important moving from anything to semi-hydroponic culture.

bil, you need to try S/H on at least one Phal or Paph. Paphs you can move whenever - you don't need to wait for new root growth.