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03-29-2016, 06:29 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Northern California
Posts: 151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bil
Gotta say, agree with Ray. Mine have all been on his regime for over a year now, the blooms are great, and as the blooms are going the new shoots are coming thick and fast.
If your oncs are a dark green, I have heard people say that they need more light.
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Okay, thanks. Are you also supplementing with Kelpmax?
I don't think they need more light, though I may try incrementally moving them closer to the window. They're not dark green, and they're getting direct south light in the morning and very bright diffused light the rest of the day.
On the fertilizer question, I'm not a scientist and quite frankly don't care about the details (not to mention scientific opinions can be equally valid yet come to different conclusions); I'm also just growing orchids for fun, so it's not of dire concern to me that the plants are perfect (and if it were I'd be in trouble because I don't have the ability to give them perfect conditions). This is why the fertilizer discussion is so odious - everyone has a different, very strong opinion that I have no way of judging the scientific validity of. I have no allegiances to brand or creed, no preconceptions about what works or doesn't. I just want something that isn't as complicated as what I'm currently doing (messing around with bloom and grow formulas for different orchids, trying to rotate three or four kinds of fertilizer, etc.). My point being, if the K-Lite and Kelpmax works for both of you, then it looks like that wasn't the problem after all and I can go back to that very easy regimen. Which is great, so thanks for sharing, both of you.
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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03-31-2016, 04:16 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Central Queensland
Posts: 49
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My Onc. didn't rebloom in the first year I had it. It grew a couple of new bulbs but that was it. But in the second year it grew a massively long spike and bloomed beautifully.
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Post Thanks / Like - 6 Likes
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03-31-2016, 04:37 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Zone: 2b
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 9,667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ollypolly
My Onc. didn't rebloom in the first year I had it. It grew a couple of new bulbs but that was it. But in the second year it grew a massively long spike and bloomed beautifully.
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Wow! Made up for lost time!
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Post Thanks / Like - 2 Likes
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03-31-2016, 06:15 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2,393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zabeta
Okay, thanks. Are you also supplementing with Kelpmax?
I don't think they need more light, though I may try incrementally moving them closer to the window. They're not dark green, and they're getting direct south light in the morning and very bright diffused light the rest of the day.
On the fertilizer question, I'm not a scientist and quite frankly don't care about the details (not to mention scientific opinions can be equally valid yet come to different conclusions); I'm also just growing orchids for fun, so it's not of dire concern to me that the plants are perfect (and if it were I'd be in trouble because I don't have the ability to give them perfect conditions). This is why the fertilizer discussion is so odious - everyone has a different, very strong opinion that I have no way of judging the scientific validity of. I have no allegiances to brand or creed, no preconceptions about what works or doesn't. I just want something that isn't as complicated as what I'm currently doing (messing around with bloom and grow formulas for different orchids, trying to rotate three or four kinds of fertilizer, etc.). My point being, if the K-Lite and Kelpmax works for both of you, then it looks like that wasn't the problem after all and I can go back to that very easy regimen. Which is great, so thanks for sharing, both of you.
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Yeah, I use kelpmax once a month. I use the KLite, because its composition fits with what I would expect orchids, especially epihytes, to get in the wild.
Messing with different fertilisers and brands, well that sounds like a lot of work to get an unnatural result.
As for patence... well, if it was blooming when you got it, it should bloom the following season if you are getting it right..
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03-31-2016, 06:41 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Northern California
Posts: 151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ollypolly
My Onc. didn't rebloom in the first year I had it. It grew a couple of new bulbs but that was it. But in the second year it grew a massively long spike and bloomed beautifully.
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Wow!
---------- Post added at 02:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:39 PM ----------
Quote:
Originally Posted by bil
Yeah, I use kelpmax once a month. I use the KLite, because its composition fits with what I would expect orchids, especially epihytes, to get in the wild.
Messing with different fertilisers and brands, well that sounds like a lot of work to get an unnatural result.
As for patence... well, if it was blooming when you got it, it should bloom the following season if you are getting it right..
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Thank you!
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
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03-31-2016, 09:59 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Zone: 8a
Location: Athens, Georgia, USA
Posts: 3,208
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I think the problem is not quite enough light, or the plant is young & was forced into bloom before you bought it & has not quite recovered.
I doubt it is the fertilizer, especially not a lack of P. Plants need only about 10% P (very roughly) relative to the amount of N and K needed, which are needed in roughly similar amounts. Orchids don't need much fertilizer, so if you are providing fertilizer, they are likely getting enough. The K lite provides some N and P, Kelpmax provides K, so you are likely meeting the plant macronutrient requirements. Kelp extracts also provide micro nutrients too.
Try gradually boosting the light and see what happens.
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Post Thanks / Like - 3 Likes
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03-31-2016, 10:24 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Northern California
Posts: 151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orchid Whisperer
I think the problem is not quite enough light, or the plant is young & was forced into bloom before you bought it & has not quite recovered.
I doubt it is the fertilizer, especially not a lack of P. Plants need only about 10% P (very roughly) relative to the amount of N and K needed, which are needed in roughly similar amounts. Orchids don't need much fertilizer, so if you are providing fertilizer, they are likely getting enough. The K lite provides some N and P, Kelpmax provides K, so you are likely meeting the plant macronutrient requirements. Kelp extracts also provide micro nutrients too.
Try gradually boosting the light and see what happens.
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Thanks. I think, based on this discussion, I'm going to stop worrying about fertilizer and just stick with my usual routine (K-Lite + Kelpmax) and try to remember to do the Kelpmax once a month. And I'll try to give them more light.
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03-31-2016, 11:22 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Zone: 9b
Location: San Joaquin County, CA
Posts: 674
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Hello Zabeta, my oncidiums are doing well here surprisingly. Our location is inland, being part already of Central Valley, so it is much hotter and drier during late Spring to early Fall. During that time, I bring them out but protected by my growcamp, free flowing air all around, and screened, then with part sun. It may sizzle to a super dry 100F's here ,but I have learned to give it a good shower before the hot temps sets in. So as soon as we start getting forecasts of 95F and higher, got to water them more often. I am never worried of overwatering them, everything just dries up too fast here, and Oncidiums are such water hogs here.
Fertilizer wise, I am rather bad with it, but if I do remember to give them some, I just use simple Miracle Gro orchid mist.
I notice these past couple of years, I start getting my blooms for my Oncidiums once I bring them in for winter. Thinking why it does that, maybe it finally feels a good cool down from our excessive months long heat here. I position them by our south facing window and by Dec to February I would have good flower spikes. Really happy to finally understand what it likes. It used to be I was being bad, leaving them outdoors even through winter, but they really suffer bad with cold damage, then they sporadically bloom once temps warm up, but when it is thermal heat time, expect no blooms anymore..just too hot already. I reversed the approach, deciding to keep them indoors instead during winter. The Oncidiums that bloomed nicely for me were Oncidium Sharry Baby, Wilsonara Hilda Plumtree Purple Wings and Oncidium Dancing Lady, oh my Miltassia Shelob Tolkien also joined the bloomers last winter, after a long time of pouting.
So my suggestion, give them more frequent watering during our warm days, let them stay out in part sun and bring them in during winter. Somehow it needs to feel that temperature variance. I do not give them a lot of fertilizer and still do well for me.
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04-01-2016, 02:53 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Zone: 9b
Location: Northern California
Posts: 151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tarev
Hello Zabeta, my oncidiums are doing well here surprisingly. Our location is inland, being part already of Central Valley, so it is much hotter and drier during late Spring to early Fall. During that time, I bring them out but protected by my growcamp, free flowing air all around, and screened, then with part sun. It may sizzle to a super dry 100F's here ,but I have learned to give it a good shower before the hot temps sets in. So as soon as we start getting forecasts of 95F and higher, got to water them more often. I am never worried of overwatering them, everything just dries up too fast here, and Oncidiums are such water hogs here.
Fertilizer wise, I am rather bad with it, but if I do remember to give them some, I just use simple Miracle Gro orchid mist.
I notice these past couple of years, I start getting my blooms for my Oncidiums once I bring them in for winter. Thinking why it does that, maybe it finally feels a good cool down from our excessive months long heat here. I position them by our south facing window and by Dec to February I would have good flower spikes. Really happy to finally understand what it likes. It used to be I was being bad, leaving them outdoors even through winter, but they really suffer bad with cold damage, then they sporadically bloom once temps warm up, but when it is thermal heat time, expect no blooms anymore..just too hot already. I reversed the approach, deciding to keep them indoors instead during winter. The Oncidiums that bloomed nicely for me were Oncidium Sharry Baby, Wilsonara Hilda Plumtree Purple Wings and Oncidium Dancing Lady, oh my Miltassia Shelob Tolkien also joined the bloomers last winter, after a long time of pouting.
So my suggestion, give them more frequent watering during our warm days, let them stay out in part sun and bring them in during winter. Somehow it needs to feel that temperature variance. I do not give them a lot of fertilizer and still do well for me.
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This is really helpful, Tarev, thank you!
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04-01-2016, 10:58 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Zone: 4a
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 8,344
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I only have 4 Onc and my 2 big ones I have almost had a year now and they are both spiking. I just wanted to say I am also using the K-lite and the kelpMax. Plus I am using Ray's inocucor and boy I seem to have some roots now.
I am supplementing with Cal & Mag as I was having a few of my Catt's getting black rot on the tips of the new growth so I just give them all a little to be sure.
I'm wondering if they are just still recovering.
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water, pseudobulbs, hot, dry, growing, kelpmax, weather, k-lite, sun, summer, lots, temperatures, coconut, husk, blooming, afternoon/evening, diffused, morning, bored, south-facing, window, bright, warm, osmosis, wrong |
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