Orchids aren't 'growing' ... ?

[mjz]

Here's another larger picture:

Note - every thing you see - including the bud growing at the base of the plant, has looked like that for more than a year.

The plant is stuck in suspended animation ...

[wintergirl]

Yep no air to the roots. You could just replace that glass with a clay pot and have better air exchange.

[silken]

I keep my Cymbidium in the greenhouse over winter. It is not a commercial one so it is cool and not terribly bright all winter with snow being on the roof much of the time. I have Catts etc. under T4's in winter but the Cym sits in the middle of the area, not under lights. Nights are 60 and days are 65 until snow melts and sun starts warming thing sup around now. It goes out in the spring after risk of frost and stays out in fall till risk of frost. I get 2 lovely spikes every winter on it. So 55 to 60 isn't too warm if that is your worry gngrhill and some days are up to 75F now with sun shining.

[estación seca]

You are using a technique similar to semi-hydroponics, except you don't have a water reservoir at the bottom of the container. The container is a little bigger than I would have used. However, the bark is quite large, and there are probably good-sized air spaces between the chunks, so I think the roots have enough air. You said you water by filling the container, then draining it, so the air is being replaced with fresh each time you water. Judging by the look of the bark, I think you are not keeping it too wet. Rather, it might be too dry, but if this were the case, I think Miltoniopsis leaves would suffer.

I still think the problem is not enough daytime warmth. How long after a watering does it take for the bark to become as dry as it is in the photo? Can you see the bark changing from moist to dry?

[gngrhill]

Thank you, Silken

[Roberta]

Originally Posted by gngrhill

I have noticed a bit of a difference in my plants since raising the night time temps from 55 to 60 and my daytime temps from65 to 70. I just have some concerns about my Cymbidium ( which will go outside once frost is over ) and I don't know yet how it will affect my nobiles and Miltoniopsis. I read on a lot of sites of pro growers that they keep their greenhouse temps at 55, but I am learning that it seems to be too cool, at least for me.

The Cymbidium will be OK with the warmer night temp. Once you put it outside (where it is likely to be through the spring, summer and fall) it will get the day-night differential that it wants for blooming. (they don't mind heat, just don't spike without that diurnal temperature differential.) 55 is fine for many orchids, but the warmer-growing ones like Phalaenopsis aren't happy that cold. If you have one area, it is probably better to err on the warmer side. Or create a gradient, with a warmer area closer to the heater and a bit cooler farther away.

[AnonYMouse]

To the OP:

As I said in another thread, change a variable then wait.

If you change feeding, light or temperature, it might take 3 months to a year (or more) to see a response. Change media, container or watering and the response will be sooner. The status quo isn't doing anything so change something, anything (one variable at a time). Who knows, that one change may do the trick.

We don't live with your plants in your environment so it's all guess work for us.

[Helene]

I think its a bit cold in the days, and not enough water. Dont have this specie, but thin rooted orchids tend to like a finer mix, or you have to water more often.

If it was very warm and not enough water it may show better on the leaves. Think the cold makes it okay being pretty dry- but it goes to sleep.

Bring a bit of spring/summer to the plant, more heat in the days and a bit more water. That might wake the plant👍🏻

[nutgirl]

I realize that this is not exactly addressing mjz's question but maybe this can help.

Because of my ongoing battle to successfully grow oncidiums I am willing to try anything.
I filled small glass globe vases mostly with lava rock and potted the plant in a coco hull/charcoal mix. Just enough mix for the roots to grow into but providing air gaps around the lava rock go give ventilation.
When I don't see condensation on the glass I fill the bowl and drain. I find that soaking is not a good idea.
This way the roots can choose to grow into the environment that makes them happy.
After 2 years lots of growth and a rebloom on a Nelly Isler (yay) my next challenge is repotting as some are filling the space and I don't want to lose the roots' environment.

I realize this isn't the ideal arrangement but my climate is dry and I just couldn't get things right.

Maureen

[estación seca]

Originally Posted by nutgirl

I realize that this is not exactly addressing mjz's question but maybe this can help.

Because of my ongoing battle to successfully grow oncidiums I am willing to try anything.
I filled small glass globe vases mostly with lava rock and potted the plant in a coco hull/charcoal mix. Just enough mix for the roots to grow into but providing air gaps around the lava rock go give ventilation.
When I don't see condensation on the glass I fill the bowl and drain. I find that soaking is not a good idea.
This way the roots can choose to grow into the environment that makes them happy.
After 2 years lots of growth and a rebloom on a Nelly Isler (yay) my next challenge is repotting as some are filling the space and I don't want to lose the roots' environment.

I realize this isn't the ideal arrangement but my climate is dry and I just couldn't get things right.

Maureen

Have you tried semi-hydroponic culture? Oncidiums in my house last summer did fine with it.