Stupid Question - is this a Phal spike?

[Zabeta]

Everyone, I realize this is a really ridiculous question. But I've never had one of my phals spike, so I've never had the opportunity to examine them closely. I have had other types of orchids produce spikes, and they don't really look like this.

Anyway, I received my Dtps. Cherry Wine 'Newberry' from Carter and Holmes today, and at first I overlooked this growth, assuming it was an old spike. Then I looked closer and realized it could be a fresh one - but the end looks smushed a little bit, like it maybe got damaged.

1. Is it a spike?

2. As I mentioned, for whatever reason, phals don't spike for me, at least not in the last couple years that I've had them. If it's spiking, what can I do to not kill the spike??? It's already getting warm here (70s), and the nights aren't super cool (maybe 60s). Dry, but not super dry (~40% humidity).

Any input would be appreciated!

[AndreaK]

Yes, it is a spike! Congrats.

[silken]

It sure is! Congrats!

To get your Phals to spike, give them a cool two week period in fall. Nothing below 55F at night and a bit warmer in the day but still cooler than they are used to.

For this spike, keep it oriented in the same direction. Just water it normally and you can stake it when it gets a bit taller if you like.

[Zabeta]

Yay, thank you! What a nice surprise! I hope it doesn't stop growing!!

---------- Post added at 07:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:55 PM ----------

Originally Posted by silken

To get your Phals to spike, give them a cool two week period in fall. Nothing below 55F at night and a bit warmer in the day but still cooler than they are used to.

I did this this year (I got them in summer 2014 in bloom, so this was the first winter they would have been able to bloom due to my own interventions). I basically just left the window open in their room, and it got significantly colder at night than in the day. I'm not sure if it got colder than 55, but I doubt it.

To be honest, I was surprised they DIDN'T spike. Surprised and disappointed! They've been healthy and growing, and they're getting enough sunlight. Could it be because I was still fertilizing lightly? :-/ I use the K-Lite fertilizer with reverse osmosis water.

[silken]

They need to be cooler in the daytime than their normal day temps as well as cooler at night. For 2 weeks minimum. Fertilizing shouldn't hurt if it is a balanced one or one with larger middle number.

[Zabeta]

Originally Posted by silken

They need to be cooler in the daytime than their normal day temps as well as cooler at night. For 2 weeks minimum. Fertilizing shouldn't hurt if it is a balanced one or one with larger middle number.

They were definitely cooler, both during the day and at night, than usual, and there was also a difference in temps between day and night.

The fertilizer is K-Lite, and it's not balanced! The numbers are 12-1-1-10Ca-3Mg. I know this ratio has been debated on the forums, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. (I also supplement with kelp fertilizer, but not regularly - maybe once every few months.) Could this perhaps be the problem?

[silken]

I would say it could be the 12-1-1 ratio. 12 is nitrogen which promotes leafy green growth. To promote blooms you need to significantly reduce the nitrogen to either a balanced 1-1-1 ratio or go even higher with the middle number. The high middle number ferts are often called bloom boosters. It is debated whether it is the increase in that nutrient (phosphorus) or the relative decrease in nitrogen that actually helps blooms, but either one would work better than the formula you are using.

[Zabeta]

Argh, thank you, Silken. The fertilizer question is so tedious that I saw a thread about K-Lite and just went for it, never to think about it again. I'm surprised anything is blooming for me, under these conditions. (And now I have to wait a whole year . . . . !!)

Can I ask what fertilizer you use? Do you switch between growth promoters and bloom boosters, or do you stick with the same one year round?

[silken]

Originally Posted by Zabeta

Argh, thank you, Silken. The fertilizer question is so tedious that I saw a thread about K-Lite and just went for it, never to think about it again. I'm surprised anything is blooming for me, under these conditions. (And now I have to wait a whole year . . . . !!)

Can I ask what fertilizer you use? Do you switch between growth promoters and bloom boosters, or do you stick with the same one year round?

I expect there is nothing wrong with K lite per se. But when new growths are maturing or it is time to induce Phals to bloom, I would use something else.

I use a balanced one called Plant Prod much of the time. But I sometimes use a bloom booster if I have something that seems stubborn to bloom. The thing is, if it isn't used at the right time, it likely won't help anyways. For Cattleyas. which I have many, they determine if they will bloom quite early as the new growths are just developing. So then is the time to reduce nitrogen. Once the growth is mature, it is probably too late. That is likely the same for many that produce pseudobulbs. Oncidiums often grow the spike right after the growth is matured. So reducing nitrogen while the growth is developing is also when it will decide if its going to spike when it matures. Using a balanced fertilizer all of the time covers your bases in not having too much nitrogen at any time, and yet enough to promote good growth which is also important.

[Zabeta]

Wow, I never realized that that was the case. I've had a few oncidiums rebloom, and what I've done in that case is just stop fertilizing altogether when I notice the spike. I've also gotten dendrobiums to rebloom, perhaps because I knew they needed their winter rest, etc., so I stopped fertilizing preemptively. But I've had trouble with the others. Now I know why! Thank you thank you.