Quote:
Originally Posted by Erikanim
So if I have to repot it do I need to buy a bigger pot? What size would you recommend?
Something that worries me is there were three shoots full of flowers now two of thr shoots have died and one of them is still green and has nubs on it but no flowers.
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Phals are pretty easy as long as you treat them right.
I think there are some misconceptions here.. Here's what I do with mine. I have 20 or so, and I have lost just one in the last two years, from crown rot.. It died IMO because it got too cold. Because it was in a dangerous position, it was watered very carefully, crown kept scrupulously dry all that stuff.
All the other orchids, I deliberately fill the crown with water. Why? Because I have observed that you can't keep water in the crown, unlike some other types of orchid, where getting water in the leaf bases is a one way ticket to Fungus Town.
When I started with phals I listened to all the advice, as a sensible person does. I tried keeping the crowns dry, but the leaves got so dusty that I had to wash them off with the spray. I went to get a paper towel, but by the time I had one, there was no water at all in the crown. So, I filled the crown, and watched how the water ran out, down the side of the crown to the roots. You try it, and see what I mean.
So, to test my idea, I have, for the last two years filled every phal crown, every time they have been watered, and they are all doing very nicely, thank you.
In the wild, every time there is a mist, which will be often, the whole plant gets wet.
Cold and overheating are the two things that will kill a phal very quickly. The slow killer is too much fertiliser so that the roots burn, or not enough air, so that they rot.
So, here is my technique with every new phal.
1. Depot and remove all the rotted medium, if possible spread the roots well, but don't damage them or cut bits off.
2. Use as large a pot as you can. It is better if they are shallower The first year and a half all mine were in 35cm diam pots that were about the same depth. I now use 35 diam, 15cm deep pots as wetting all that bark took forever.
3. Use 2" bark chunks, and NOTHING else. You don't want to add perlite etc, because those bits sratr to block up the spaces between the bark. Thos spaces are what keeps the phal alive. Sieve the bark so all the small bits are removed, and pput them aside for fine root orchids.
4. Put the orchid tight against the side of the pot, with the 'lean' away from that side. You will notice that if the phal has been given plenty of space in the pot, often, most of the roots are on the side it is leaning away from.
Work the bark chunks well around the roots, trying not to break them.
5. Do not water for two days. I don't know how important that is, the idea is to give the broken roots time to heal. It's reasonable thinking and costs you nothing to do. I have forgotten, and watered them the next day, and I haven't lost any yet.
One point re watering. I store the water for them where they live, so there is never any cold shock. Remember, cold is a killer, not wetting the crown.