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09-03-2016, 03:22 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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Here in the UK we have a single importer and at £27 per bag the stuff is just not economic for me with +/- 800 plants. Seems like people just follow because it is the latest big idea. A bit like the kings New Clothes, but I have not yet seen long term advantages . Yes, plants grow well when repotted, but they do that anyway in any standard bark mix, and I certainly would not like to leave my plans in the same pot for several years.
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09-03-2016, 05:00 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Zone: 8a
Location: Athens, Georgia, USA
Posts: 3,208
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Someone gave me some orchiata to try, and of the characteristics it is known for (chiefly slow break down), my sample lived up to the reputation. It is a quality bark.
However, for most of my plants (Cattleyas and Phals, with a few others), they grow just fine in much cheaper bark (approx $5/8 qt bag), outgrowing the pot before the bark decomposes. For this reason, I agree with richardb - not the economical choice for the plants I grow.
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09-04-2016, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waterloo, Oregon, USA
Age: 92
Posts: 59
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I have repotted cattleyas, phalaenopsis, and catesetums after 3 years and the bark shows no signs of decay. I repotted in larger pots without tearing up any roots and the plants still look good, growing well. I do notice a good tendency of the roots to easily penetrate down into the mix rather than skip across the top and over the edge. I used medium sized bark and nothing else.
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09-04-2016, 11:41 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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Location: north florida
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I still like my homemade fir bark mixes....been using them for near 40 years now, and I don't have a problem with decomposition....the used media works quite well in my garden, so I really cant complain....some vandas, which I don't like to mess with repotting, I use straight large charcoal....my personal opinion...
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09-05-2016, 03:28 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
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I agree with Dounoharm. One of the first rules of orchid growing is if you have something which works for you, don't just follow the crowd and change. I have heard of people growing in gravel, seramis, and even wine corks.
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09-05-2016, 05:40 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waterloo, Oregon, USA
Age: 92
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Ya, that's true. I made a statement in an orchid talk I gave on potting mixes long time ago that I that orchids would grow in broken glass provided you learn how to water them right. An attendee to the talk brought me a bucket of broken glass (his daughter had trashed the patio door) and said try it. I grew L. anceps in it and it did fine. Took more water than normal. pictures from years ago
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09-10-2016, 10:39 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Waterloo, Oregon, USA
Age: 92
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clear pot website
If you have questions about clear pots log in to our website <www.chulaorchids.com> open the clear pot page, then open the about clear pot link at the top or the bottom of the page. It will be up tomorrow or maybe later tonight. then check out our clear pot offerings on the clear pot page itself.
Last edited by chulaorchids; 09-11-2016 at 12:30 AM..
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09-10-2016, 11:38 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chulaorchids
Ya, that's true. I made a statement in an orchid talk I gave on potting mixes long time ago that I that orchids would grow in broken glass provided you learn how to water them right. An attendee to the talk brought me a bucket of broken glass (his daughter had trashed the patio door) and said try it. I grew L. anceps in it and it did fine. Took more water than normal. pictures from years ago
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Especially some orchids... L. anceps in a pot grows gradually, then hits the edge of the pot and takes off, a clear indication that it did not want to be in a pot I like the broken glass idea as a substitute for a mount... control the plant without its noticing that it is confined, more surface for moisture to hang around than just going bare.
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09-11-2016, 10:31 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Oak Island NC
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Roberta, I think your assessment is actually backwards.
Plants want mechanical stability. Placing them in a loose, easy to move medium, and it's anything but. Once the plant reaches the edge of the pot, its roots can solidly "grab" onto something that gives that stability, and boom!
Last edited by Ray; 09-11-2016 at 10:33 AM..
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09-11-2016, 12:15 PM
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Super Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Zone: 10a
Location: Coastal southern California, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray
Roberta, I think your assessment is actually backwards.
Plants want mechanical stability. Placing them in a loose, easy to move medium, and it's anything but. Once the plant reaches the edge of the pot, its roots can solidly "grab" onto something that gives that stability, and boom!
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I just know that L. anceps grows for me much better mounted, or in a basket with minimal media (essentially, a 3-dimensional mount) It certainly needs stability so that new root tips don't get damanged - tied to a mount, or to the sides of the basket. But is as a very strong epiphyte, and grows best as it escapes any media that may be around. When I have had these in pots, the part in the pot tends not to survive - becomes rootless, leafless backbulbs quickly. The "free" part thrives and prospers. And I live i a rather dry climate.
Last edited by Roberta; 09-11-2016 at 12:28 PM..
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