Phal yellowing wrinkly leaves, only a few small roots left - Orchid Board

jackpot · #1 11-12-2015, 09:23 AM

Hi everyone!

I would like some help with a phal that turned into a rescue project. I got it before I knew how to properly care for phalaenopsis orchids a bit. So far, it's only going downhill with this one, and I don't know what to do anymore.

A lot of the roots got rotted, there are still a couple of roots left with green tips however. Now all the roots that are left, are so small I can't even pot it in a way that would make it stable, they don't really go past the tip of the base on the bottom.
The leaves are so wrinkly and weak, but I don't know how to properly water or how to keep it it at this point. I prefer to have them in plastic pots.

Now last month most of my orchids started putting out flower spikes, this is also when this one started something that looks like a spike. It's the little growth on the right of the picture. But now I noticed something is also starting to grow on the left side. I don't think it's doing that because it's happy. Whatever it is, I would like to get this orchis back to health but I don't know how. Any suggestions?

Right now I just mist the roots every day, and then place it kind of on top of the bark it used to sit in. A few days ago, one of the leaves started to yellow. It's dying, how can I keep it more moist?

Ray · #2 11-12-2015, 11:33 AM

As it is, the plant is slowly desiccating to death. The treatment you are giving it is not providing sufficient water to overcome the losses through natural respiration. I suggest the following:

Find a product containing root-stimulating hormones. That can be a natural kelp extract or a synthetic one.
Using that product in luke-warm water, soak the plant for several hours.
Pot it up in moistened potting medium.
Invert a clear plastic bag over the plant and pot, to trap the humidity.
Keep it warm and shady, and it should recover well.

turock · #3 11-12-2015, 11:50 AM

In all honesty, while this orchid looks weak, it doesn't look too horrible. The bottom leaf is being shed because the orchid is absorbing nutrients from it and making another leaf. Just let that process occur until the leaf falls off naturally.

The roots that remain look quite healthy, although I can't see the tips. If it were mine, I would pot it up with entirely new potting medium and get those roots into the medium. To stabilize the plant, use a stake attached to one of its old dry spikes, or wire it into the bottom of the pot with a floral wire. When you've finished filling the pot with bark, put a thin layer of sphagnum moss around the base of the plant to keep humidity high and encourage new roots to grow. Give it about a week or two to adjust, then water that sucker! It needs much more than a misting. Let the medium dry out (not bone dry, but slightly damp), then pretend you're a typhoon and drench those roots. Make sure it drains completely afterwards. I like to poke extra holes in the sides of my pots to make sure the roots get air.

The plant could be spiking because it is 'happy' or because it senses it is weak and wants to perpetuate its genes in case it dies. The double spike, while very nice, will sap your plant of the energy it needs to survive. If you are able to give the plant ideal conditions, with high humidity and adequate phosphorus-based fertilizer, the plant may be able to carry both spikes without harm. However, since you're just learning, it might be best if you cut one or both spikes to allow the plant to put its energy into its roots and leaves. It's up to you. I've had to make that sacrifice many times before. Sometimes I'll let the plant flower, then cut the flowers off after a week or two. Kind of a compromise.

I'm glad you're learning! All in all, with decent care, this plant looks as though it will pull through!

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estación seca · #4 11-12-2015, 01:31 PM

The advice above is excellent and your plant should survive and grow.

In addition to the above, the plant looks quite red to me - that is caused by high light. Most people don't give Phals so much light. Once you learn how to water them, that amount of light is OK for them. Until you learn to give them the right amount of water, perhaps grow in a little less light, so it loses less water.

jackpot · #5 11-13-2015, 08:21 AM

Thanks for the advice! I have a few more questions after reading it

I added some more pictures to show the situation a little better.

Ray,
I know nothing of growing hormones, I will have to read up about that a bit. Do you think the plants needs it to survive?

If you can see the base of the orchid, you can see the roots only go beyond that just a tiny bit. This means that I can't really leave it to soak the roots, without getting the base of the orchid wet. Some of the good roots are a little bit off to the side. I have to hold it a little to the sidefor the roots to get properly wet.

Also, will the moist medium and a bag on top of it be enough to keep it hydrated, or does it really need to soak that long first?

Turock,
thanks for the tip on how to pot it stable. I will definitely do this. I don't have moss that I could use, but it sounds so logical now that I see it. I will see if I can get some.
I don't have enough knowledge about fertilizer, so I don't think I could give this orchid the right amounts that it needs to support the flower spike. When would be a good time to put a stop to it? Should it grow a little bigger?

Seca,

I moved it, you are right, the leaves are almost purple. I have a better spot for it picked out, I didn't realize my orchids got so much light

Ray · #6 11-13-2015, 08:48 AM

Hormone treatment is not essential, but the proper product can have a significant stimulating effect on the plant.

The plant will not gain a significant amount of moisture - if at all - from surrounding humidity. As the plant undergoes its normal respiratory processes, water can be lost through the leaves. The role of the elevated humidity around the plant is to slow that process, to give the plant more time to grow new roots.

There is absolutely no issue with completely submerging the plant - I usually limit it to an hour or two, but have left some overnight. Just make sure to invert the plant and let the crown drain, then dry completely before nightfall.

jackpot · #7 11-13-2015, 09:43 AM

Thanks for clarifying about surrounding humidity, I thought it could add a lot of moisture..

Also, nice to hear about soaking them, I'll do it in the morning. I thought water on the base would mean insta-death.

turock · #8 11-13-2015, 06:25 PM

Glad to be able to help! You could probably allow the plant to grow at least one of the spikes, especially if you start to see improvements in the roots and leaves with your new care routine. If you decide to cut the spike, though, the sooner you do it, the more nutrients are available to make healthy roots (and hopefully better flowers next year!)

Fertilizer will help give your plant the nutrients needed to recover from its weakened state. Don't worry, it really doesn't have to be complicated. A store-bought orchid fertilizer will be just fine. I use Better-Gro, because it is inexpensive and I can find it at my local hardware store. I buy two formulas: one for blooms and one for green growth.

While it is producing and supporting flowers, your orchid will benefit from a bloom-boosting fertilizer. This means a fertilizer that has a higher concentration of phosphorus. While it is actively growing roots and leaves, change to a formula with a higher concentration of nitrogen. Or, alternate both formulas if the plant is growing roots and leaves while it is in bloom.

You will begin to notice that your orchid will need more water at certain times of the year than others. This corresponds to seasons, with winter generally bringing slower growth, and therefore less water needs. While you are providing more frequent waterings, you can fertilize every week. Otherwise, you can fertilize every month. Less is generally better.

Make sure to mix only about a quarter of the amount recommended on the package though. (I believe the package recommends 1 tablespoon of fertilizer per gallon of water, but I only use 1 teaspoon/gal). Soak the plant and its pot in the fertilizer solution for several minutes, then drain it all away. Once a month, skip the fertilizer and just drench the plant with plain water to clean out any build-up.

It'll become habit, and you'll look forward to it when you see your plant respond.

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