Thinking about buying a Catt with some doubts
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  #31  
Old 11-26-2015, 09:07 PM
silken silken is offline
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Those spots are just pigment spots and your bloom will be a spotted one. Lucky you! Your pot doesn't appear to have much for drainage and air holes. Be careful not to overwater. Catts require a bit different culture than Phals. They like higher light-but not direct hot light or they can burn. They like to have the root zone dry out almost completely before being watered and they need good drainage and air to the roots.

I think I see some new root growth but am not positive. If so, after it has finished blooming. I would re-pot it into a pot with better aeration. I prefer a clear pot with bottom and usually side holes and medium bark that has been well soaked before using. Others use clay pots and some use leca balls or coco chunks, etc., so you will have to decide what works for you. The best time to re-pot is when new roots are started as they adapt to the new medium better than old roots. However with new purchases, it is often necessary to un-pot and replace media or at least check the roots even if new roots aren't started. With bifoliate Catts, they may not like it unless they have new root growth. They are more fussy than ones with only 1 leaf.

Be sure to post a photo of yours when it blooms.
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  #32  
Old 12-02-2015, 04:32 PM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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From the pics which one do you think is the youngest growth?

Two days after I got it those tiny leafs died. I was not susprised since they were not looking too good, one of them was almost dead.
Anyway, I hope it doesn't mean anything bad.

I made a "calibration" of the environmental conditions of the room where I put it: it's a large south faced window (2,5x2,5 mts / 99x99 inches), direct sun from 09:30 to 15:30 (in winter, with a translucid curtain), temps 23 (day) to 15 şC (night) (73 to 59 F) and HR very stable, around 55-60%.

Do you think these are good? I'm thinking about moving it further from the window because I can feel the heat from the curtain which, I think, it's not a good thing.
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  #33  
Old 12-02-2015, 04:46 PM
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Catt hybrids bloom on the growth most recently completed. Many hybrids begin a new growth before the flowers are finished, and yours is doing this. The third growth back from the front of the plant, the pseudobulb before the one bearing your current flowers, has a flower sheath, which probably will not bloom, though there is a small chance it might. Catts almost never bloom from an older growth. The newly expanding growth may bloom; whether it forms a sheath and flower buds has already been determined.

The rhizome should be visible, as it is, not buried in the bark. You will be able to trace the growths back in time to the smallest and oldest. The smallest leaves often fall off when changing situations, but this does not harm the plant.

The previous grower kept it somewhat shaded. To grow and bloom best most Catts should have leaves a lighter color, tending towards yellowish green. They also grow more compactly with strong light.

Your temperatures, light and humidity are fine for this plant. Keep it back somewhat from the window, and over the next few weeks move it gradually closer. If the leaves develop yellowing spots, move it back for a few more days and try again. It should eventually be fine near the window but behind the sheer curtain.

Winter watering is the most important concern now. As others have said, it needs to dry out before being watered again. Once the currently expanding growth matures, it won't need any fertilizer until it begins another new growth.
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  #34  
Old 12-02-2015, 04:57 PM
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Thanks for the info. I only watered it 3 days after I got it and I'm paying specila attention to it. My main concern is light but I suspect that's what I have more.

I know I will grow it easily.
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  #35  
Old 12-03-2015, 05:36 PM
Optimist Optimist is offline
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my test is to buy one on sale but still healthy, and try it for a year. If I can make it happy (not necessarily blooming) I will try a larger blooming sized one. If it dies within the first year, I figure I cannot give it the culture it needs (now because I will be moving within 2 years to a place with a different climate). Catts are one of my favorite. I am not buying any more Oncidiums that is for sure. Catts are hardy and strong and seem to bounce back!! I love them!
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  #36  
Old 12-03-2015, 06:11 PM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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Although this one was cheap, I took it as a small risk. I bought because I believe (based also in the info I got in these forums) I can provide the adequate conditions.
Otherwise, I would't have bought it.
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  #37  
Old 12-03-2015, 09:36 PM
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I think Cattleyas are a lot easier to grow than Phalaenopsis with my conditions of lower humidity for much of the year.
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  #38  
Old 12-07-2015, 09:57 PM
rbarata rbarata is offline
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Hello, my friends

I'm facing what can be a problem... I'm not sure.
The room where my catt is has been reaching a max temp of about 15ş C (59 F) because it has been raining, hence no sum to make it warmer. It's been like this since yesterday.
My thought was: if they need this temp at night, maybe it's not an issue.

Do you think I should move it to my phal room? Temps there don't drop at night as much as where it is now but at least it won't die from freezing.😀
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  #39  
Old 12-08-2015, 01:09 AM
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Since it's your first Catt, and you're worried already, just move it with the Phals and sleep peacefully. But if your rainy spells are only 2-3 days long, and the plant is dry when it's cool, it shouldn't be a problem.
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  #40  
Old 12-08-2015, 08:50 AM
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We must face our fears so I will test the limits and leave it where it is.

Thank you.
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