Catasetum lower leaf has yellow edges...

[AvantGardner]

The mold became a problem when I had mine inside in my basement grow room. I moved them outside and it hasn't come back. I drilled holes in my pots and now they're hanging in a maple tree with full sun for a few hours in the morning and the evening.

I think the mold is a product of the sap leaching out. Any time you get wet sugars sitting on a plant for extended periods of time you're bound to have problems.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

You may have figured this "problem" out already, but I'll mention a few things since you are new to Catasetinae, and some of this may be repeated info; however, I think repetition does not hurt.

1. Catasetinae have an active growth period and a dormancy period. Dormancy period is usually around Oct/Nov.

2. Do not depend on whether the leaves drop off or not to stop watering the orchid. If you do this, you will be very disappointed. Stop watering in Oct/Nov.

3. The bottom leaves naturally fall off leaving behind the top two leaves. These are the ones that will remain on the shoot until the dormancy period comes.

4. These orchids can be prone to bruising. As long as it is not rotting, the plant is still alive.

5. During dormancy, it is normal for the pseudobulbs to shrivel a little bit. They are not about to die. They'll be fine. Do not water them if you see this.

This info should be enough for you to get by. I do not have an extensive Catasetum/Cycnoches/Mormodes/Clowesia collection, but I do grow a few. I have been able to grow these for a short while now, so I feel confident that the info I gave you is good enough for you for the time being until you find someone who is far more advanced at growing these group of orchids than I am.

[estación seca]

If you go to Fred Clarke's online site Sunset Valley Orchids you can find his detailed advice for growing these plants.

[Yazz]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

You may have figured this "problem" out already, but I'll mention a few things since you are new to Catasetinae, and some of this may be repeated info; however, I think repetition does not hurt.

1. Catasetinae have an active growth period and a dormancy period. Dormancy period is usually around Oct/Nov.

2. Do not depend on whether the leaves drop off or not to stop watering the orchid. If you do this, you will be very disappointed. Stop watering in Oct/Nov.

3. The bottom leaves naturally fall off leaving behind the top two leaves. These are the ones that will remain on the shoot until the dormancy period comes.

4. These orchids can be prone to bruising. As long as it is not rotting, the plant is still alive.

5. During dormancy, it is normal for the pseudobulbs to shrivel a little bit. They are not about to die. They'll be fine. Do not water them if you see this.

This info should be enough for you to get by. I do not have an extensive Catasetum/Cycnoches/Mormodes/Clowesia collection, but I do grow a few. I have been able to grow these for a short while now, so I feel confident that the info I gave you is good enough for you for the time being until you find someone who is far more advanced at growing these group of orchids than I am.

King of Orchid Growing,

The other day, went shopping for a Cycnoches Taiwan Gold and two Catasetums accidentally followed me home. Both were in pretty rough shape. One has some medium sized brown spots on the pbulb that aren't wet. Figured it had gotten banged into by the placing of the spots.

Good to know they're bruises and it'l be o.k. Thanks!

---------- Post added at 05:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:49 PM ----------

Originally Posted by estación seca

If you go to Fred Clarke's online site Sunset Valley Orchids you can find his detailed advice for growing these plants.

Estacion,

Thanks for the heads up on the info! Have copied off the pages for further reference.