HELP! Too Much Water in Phalaenopsis

[silken]

If you are spraying the leaves, I hope you are making sure the crown has not collected any water as that can lead to crown rot. I agree fertilizing every week with 1/4 or 1/2 the recommended dose on your fertilizer package would give them a more even feed. Once a month rinse with clear water to flush the pot clear of fertilizer salts. In the fall, a few weeks of cooler temps (not lower than 50F) should induce blooms by spring.

[bil]

Originally Posted by silken

If you are spraying the leaves, I hope you are making sure the crown has not collected any water as that can lead to crown rot. I agree fertilizing every week with 1/4 or 1/2 the recommended dose on your fertilizer package would give them a more even feed. Once a month rinse with clear water to flush the pot clear of fertilizer salts. In the fall, a few weeks of cooler temps (not lower than 50F) should induce blooms by spring.

Meh, I hear a lot about crown rot, but you know, I don't think it is caused by the leaves getting wet. I had one phal die of croown rot over winter. It was one that got a bit cold. However, because those Phals were too cold, I watered them very carefully, and never wetted the crowns. Out of 6 that were too cold one died of crown rot. All the rest had wet crowns, quite deliberately, all winter long. They are all doing well.
I can't find one of mine that will even allow water to collect in the crown.

[labyrinth1959]

So if you are not sure, is it better to water a bit too soon or water too late? I think I have a tendency to water too soon, but I am never sure and I worry that they won't be able to recover if watering is too late. What is a typical period between waterings if the potting medium is bark?

[Raqsharqi]

What you pot in depends, in part, on where you live. I have mine in a very loose moss, cork, leca, and sponge rock mixture. In the warmer months, some require DAILY watering because of our climate. I use clear plastic pots with slits in the sides, so the roots are free to "wander about the cabin."
Your life style also matters. If you can't water often, you might like the moss anyway.
When I got hooked on orchids last year, I went to repotme, figuring at least I'd be following someone's plan, since I was clueless. They have an amazing assortment of mixes with rationales for all of them. I appreciate that...that you and your orchids can find what keeps both of you happy.

[silken]

Your medium bark will dry out at different rates depending if it is older or new and what your growing climate is like. So no-one can give you a precise answer. A good way to tell, is to place a bamboo kebab skewer in each pot near the centre and down near the bottom and leave it there. When you think it might be time to water, pull it out. Depending if it is dry or wet will tell you how your bark is. If it is very close to dry, then water your plant well. Put the skewer back in the same place so that roots aren't being stabbed every time you insert it. This is a method that lots of growers use and it helps prevent over and under watering of their orchids.

[labyrinth1959]

I had to buy a new bag of Miracle Grow "coarse" bark for potting the orchids. This bark is much less coarse than the bark I previously had. Much of the bark seems to be more on the order of slivers as opposed to chunks. Also, it seems to contain considerable dirt. I'm actually wondering if I should even use it. Comments or suggestions?

[silken]

Originally Posted by labyrinth1959

I had to buy a new bag of Miracle Grow "coarse" bark for potting the orchids. This bark is much less coarse than the bark I previously had. Much of the bark seems to be more on the order of slivers as opposed to chunks. Also, it seems to contain considerable dirt. I'm actually wondering if I should even use it. Comments or suggestions?

Some people on here do not recommend buying Miracle Grow potting media because of all the dirt and fine particles. You might need to go to an orchid supply place or hydroponics store or order online. You can sift thru and pull out the larger chunks from the Miracle Grow or see if you can return it. Supposedly they came out with a chunkier mix, but if yours says 'course' on the bag, I would have thought this would be the chunkier one.

[wintergirl]

Originally Posted by labyrinth1959

I had to buy a new bag of Miracle Grow "coarse" bark for potting the orchids. This bark is much less coarse than the bark I previously had. Much of the bark seems to be more on the order of slivers as opposed to chunks. Also, it seems to contain considerable dirt. I'm actually wondering if I should even use it. Comments or suggestions?

I use this all the time and have good luck. I just pick out the coarser pieces and use them. I put the rest in my garden outside. The best way to know when to water is when the roots inside the pot are silver or white. They will get green after the water. If you are unsure wait a day. IMO it is better to underwater than over water a phal.

[Leafmite]

In the past, I used red lava rock and they did very well. Most Phals grow bare-root on trees so the medium is just meant to keep the air around the roots humid.
I go through phases with Phals. I buy them, get bored, give them away and then somehow start all over again. I just got rid of a bunch of species orchids and now I have a Phal that my daughter rescued from someone's home. It is in LECA and doing quite well. I water it about every two weeks, soaking it until the roots turn green then let the water drain out well before putting it in the 'decorative' pot.

[labyrinth1959]

I have a phal that is near the end of its flowering cycle and it is putting out a new leaf. My question is should I preemtively cut off the flower stalk to reduce stress or just leave the nature takes it coarse. If the later, should I or should I not cut off the stalk when all the flowers have fallen off?