My Dendrobium and I hate each other

[gnathaniel]

I could be wrong (it happens a lot!) but I don't think that's a 'nobile-type' (ie section Dendrobium of genus Dendrobium) hybrid; looks more like something in section Spatulata (aka 'antelope-type'), possibly with section Phalaenanthe ancestry, too. This type does naturally shed some leaves but not as dramatically as section Dendrobium plants, and from what I've seen they're generally healthier if grown to retain the foliage.

Overall this plant appears to be very healthy, but since I grow nothing in sections Spatulata or Phalaenanthe, I'll bow out now and let those with actual expertise advise you...

[bil]

Originally Posted by ddivey36

.I would give it some time and tell it how much you love him....

Mmmmm. I have found that threatening them with sincere violence works rather well.

Exhibit 1. "If this fig tree doesn't fruit next year I shall cut down the (expletives deleted) and use it for firewood.
Result? Lots of figs every year since then.

Exhibit 2. Those worthless hardcanes have produced no flowers, so come the autumn, they are compost food!
Result, lots and lots of flowers!

The plants and trees I have lavished care attention and love on usually just laugh at me.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

If this orchid has Spathulata, ("Antelope Dendrobium"), lineage, you can put this orchid near Cattleyas. That's how bright they can take it.

A majority of my Dens are in the section Spathulata.

[court_b]

Originally Posted by gnathaniel

I could be wrong (it happens a lot!) but I don't think that's a 'nobile-type' (ie section Dendrobium of genus Dendrobium) hybrid; looks more like something in section Spatulata (aka 'antelope-type'), possibly with section Phalaenanthe ancestry, too. This type does naturally shed some leaves but not as dramatically as section Dendrobium plants, and from what I've seen they're generally healthier if grown to retain the foliage.

Overall this plant appears to be very healthy, but since I grow nothing in sections Spatulata or Phalaenanthe, I'll bow out now and let those with actual expertise advise you...

Interesting. This does make sense, it honestly has only dropped 3 leaves since I got it. I will do some research on them! Thanks for your help!!

---------- Post added at 12:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:45 PM ----------

YES! I believe this way works better as well!!!

Originally Posted by bil

Mmmmm. I have found that threatening them with sincere violence works rather well.

Exhibit 1. "If this fig tree doesn't fruit next year I shall cut down the (expletives deleted) and use it for firewood.
Result? Lots of figs every year since then.

Exhibit 2. Those worthless hardcanes have produced no flowers, so come the autumn, they are compost food!
Result, lots and lots of flowers!

The plants and trees I have lavished care attention and love on usually just laugh at me.

---------- Post added at 12:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:45 PM ----------

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

If this orchid has Spathulata, ("Antelope Dendrobium"), lineage, you can put this orchid near Cattleyas. That's how bright they can take it.

A majority of my Dens are in the section Spathulata.

I plan on doing some research on this section. Do you think it would be a better plan to move it directly to the top or slowly move it up?

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Slowly, but it's not that lengthy. Since you've had this orchid growing in low light for what seems like quite a while, the acclimation could probably take about 1 month.

[Optimist]

Originally Posted by court_b

How dry should it be? I did read that they slow down so I don't water it as much as all my others. I keep track of all my plants "dryness" by weighing them. I feel like I'm letting it dry out quite a bit but maybe it's too much or too little?

Don't water it at all.

[NYCorchidman]

Originally Posted by Optimist

Its a nobelii type. It should be in a dry winter rest now. It is deciduous and should be losing its leaves. Where the leaves used to be, it will grow the flower buds.

I believe they bloom in the spring.

Nope, this is not a nobile type.
It is an evergreen kind.

[court_b]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

Slowly, but it's not that lengthy. Since you've had this orchid growing in low light for what seems like quite a while, the acclimation could probably take about 1 month.

Ok sounds good! Thanks for the information. So with this section, they don't have a resting phase correct?

[NYCorchidman]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

It looks like it needs more light.

Try providing more light so that the leaves are a lighter green. But do not put it under direct sun. It's gotta be moderately bright to bright indirect light.

I disagree.
You cannot tell if it needs to be greener to say whether or not it is getting enough light.
Each variety differs and even individual plants of the same type can differ, sort of like skin colors on humans.

Old saying of dark green=too much shade, light green=good light is just plain wrong and misleading to many people who are not familiar with these things.

My Emma White and Sonya for example have very dark green leaves. I have another Emma White and Eastern Vigor and a few others whose leaves are pale green to yellow green.
Guess what? All of the are sitting at the same window cooking in the sun. well, through the glass and sometimes a little shading.

The same goes with the phals. Some plants just have darker or lighter greens, although this green tone does change depending on the light.

Only the owner can tell the "correct" color of the leaves as you have to see the color of the leaf when first bought (assuming the plant is healthy and well grown),and that's the color it should be, and this differs by plants.

So looking at this particular picture and saying it is too dark and not getting enough light is not possible.

---------- Post added at 08:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:03 PM ----------

Originally Posted by court_b

It sits on the bottom level with the Phals. The temperature there is about 70 degrees Fahrenheit in the day with humidity between 45-60%, depending on how much I am opening and closing the plastic.

I would put this dendrobium closer to the light.

---------- Post added at 08:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:05 PM ----------

Regarding watering, this type of dendrobiums usually stop any activity other than flowering on some occasions this time of the year.
When grown in northern climate where winter is cold, this is generally the patter and the growth will resume once the warmer weather returns.

During this inactive time, they obviously need less watering and you should water less but still need to water to keep the plant healthy. I would say about once a week depending on your conditions.

[court_b]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

Slowly, but it's not that lengthy. Since you've had this orchid growing in low light for what seems like quite a while, the acclimation could probably take about 1 month.

[QUOTE=NYCorchidman;727940]I disagree.
You cannot tell if it needs to be greener to say whether or not it is getting enough light.
Each variety differs and even individual plants of the same type can differ, sort of like skin colors on humans.

Old saying of dark green=too much shade, light green=good light is just plain wrong and misleading to many people who are not familiar with these things.

My Emma White and Sonya for example have very dark green leaves. I have another Emma White and Eastern Vigor and a few others whose leaves are pale green to yellow green.
Guess what? All of the are sitting at the same window cooking in the sun. well, through the glass and sometimes a little shading.

The same goes with the phals. Some plants just have darker or lighter greens, although this green tone does change depending on the light.

Only the owner can tell the "correct" color of the leaves as you have to see the color of the leaf when first bought (assuming the plant is healthy and well grown),and that's the color it should be, and this differs by plants.

So looking at this particular picture and saying it is too dark and not getting enough light is not possible.[COLOR="Silver"]











See here is the thing, I agree with the "owner knows best" but I'm new at this. I honestly have no clue how I've kept my Cattleya, Paph, Oncidiums and Phals alive and blooming. Maybe spending hours reading on these boards and a few books has paid off. That being said, I'm concerned, those frumpy looking canes are dark in color and not shiny, while the other two canes are lighter in color and shiny, those two look healthy to me. These frumpy canes are a new change, (over the past few months). I am going to move it up tomorrow to get better lighting but I have a hunch something is off. I just can't put my finger in it but I don't think it's well, atleast those 3 frumpy canes.