Humidity vs. Air Flow

[Joeturbo26]

Happy Saturday!

As a newbie here who has never killed ANY plant in my life other than EVERY orchid I've ever owned, some may have read on my welcome post that 2015 I've resolved to succeed at orchids this year.... LOL.

I think I've found the perfect spot for three orchids (2 Phals, 1 Oncidium) in my apartment—but my question is this:

I know everything is about balance, but which is more important, high humidity or Air Flow?

I have a west window in my shower with a small ledge. I have a transparent shower curtain, allowing light in from all directions. I've been able to maintain a humidity of 50-75% from taking two showers a day and then keeping the shower curtain closed. Only concern is—the restricted air flow. With the curtain open, the humidity remains around 20-30%, with occasional drops into the teens.

I would love your feedback, thoughts and advice!

Here are some photos of the "Shower Greenhouse" LOL

[Bulbofett]

Can you explain what you believe went wrong with orchids in the past? That will better assist with your future orchids.

Phals and Oncidiums aren't so picky about humidity as some other orchids. Keep them evenly moist and give them good light and they should do well for you. For this reason I like to use sphagnum moss. So, as you can guess, I would say air flow over stagnant humid conditions; if I had to choose one over the other.

Putting the orchids in a deep cache pot can help keep the humidity around the plant if you're really concerned about the levels. This is what I do for my mounted orchids in the winter and they do just fine.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

If these were my only two choices, then air flow would be the more important of the two.

Most store bought orchids are plants that have a genetic heritage going back to species that grew on tree trunks or tree branches in the wild, so their roots are usually exposed to a lot of air.

There are far more factors in orchid growing than just these two parameters for successful orchid growing in general.

For one, most store bought Phals will usually develop problems with root rot because of how they were treated along the way before they reached your house.

Most store bought Oncs usually have issues with their roots too.

In your case, it could possibly be an issue of not picking the strongest one of the bunch. With orchids, you absolutely cannot and should not be looking solely at flowers as the only indicator of the plant's health. Look at the roots first, then the stem, then the leaves, and lastly flowers. Flowers are dead last on the determining factor of whether they are healthy or not. Orchids can even flower when they are close to dying. That's how bad of a health indicator they are.


The recommendation of checking the roots, the stem, and the leaves doesn't sound very sexy. It sounds boring. The popular thing to do is to check out the flowers…

Well…

Flowers are only the plant's genitals. Sorry. It just isn't the plant's entire "body".

If you understand this then great, but it bears repeating.

[Jenn4a]

For me, a beginner too (but I have a phal, cattleyas, paphs, phrag, and a darwinara), I noticed that they mostly favor air movement. With more humidity, air movement is especially important.
I wouldn't worry about humidity that much as long as you spray the air roots every 1-3 days when they dry out (for your phal, dry healthy roots are pump, white or silvery.)

I think if you have a box fan, you can plug that in so the air circulates in your bathroom?

[Ray]

In a home environment, especially where humidity tends to be low, air movement is of little value.

Move the plants into a location with moist, stagnant air, and that changes drastically, mandating more air movement.

[PaphMadMan]

Get a small fan to circulate air within the shower enclosure.

[Paul]

As has been indicated, it depends somewhat on the plant types. Catts and Phals are usually quite adaptable to low humidity.

Of the two options, I agree with Philip -- airflow is the more important.

However, as has been pointed out, there are other factors of far greater importance.

• Did you check the roots before or shortly after purchase?
• What media are the plants in?
• What are your specific growing conditions?

[Joeturbo26]

Wow thank you all so much for your responses! This is my first chance back at the computer to reply.

Just to answer a few of your questions.

First, I believe what has led me to fail at orchids in the past is mainly surrounding hydration first and foremost, either overwatering/underwatering. Secondly, sadly viewing them as ornaments vs. plants that I could actually add to my collection of plants--which include many Clivia (I breed them), Bonsai, Succulents and Hippeastrum (which I also breed) amongst some other things. Which lastly leads me to something that was mentioned which is--in the past I only purchased orchids for their flowers... which I am happy to report after reading the "beginner sticky", these three orchids were NOT purchased for their flowers I did in fact inspect their roots first, then stems, and flowers being the absolute last! In fact, one of the Phals, doesn't even have a spike

As for the media I am growing in--one the two Phals, I immediately repotted into bark, from its previous moss. I used Hoffmans Orchid Mix, the Oncidium, I did not repot, although, I feel as though it is in a "too soily" media currently--I fear however, it is too well into its flowering to disturb it right this moment. Do you suggest I repot anyway?

I totally get it, a smaller space the more of a "micro-environment I create" and in smaller spaces, variables have greater impact, thus the importance of air flow supersedes humidity! With that, I will open the shower curtain and allow airflow in lieu of "perfect humidity" haha..

I love the dialogue everyone has created! What a wonderful resource this board is!

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

I recommend repotting the Onc anyways. It's not as hard as you think. Just wet it thoroughly enough until the roots turn green, and gently push/roll any roots that are stuck inside the pot off. If the roots are especially stubborn, just wet some more and try again. Repeat if they are still stubborn.