Donate Now
and become
Forum Supporter.
Many perks! <...more...>
|
12-13-2014, 01:40 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2006
Zone: 5b
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,077
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by bil
So is the general opinion that it is better to cut the old spikes off even if they are green, in order to get better spikes?
|
For clarification of my original comment:
On a strong, healthy plant the leaving of old spikes should not hinder the development of new spikes nor the number of flowers that will be present on the new spikes. If the plant is not in great condition, then the leaving of old spikes can indeed have an impact.
The new spikes of many of the favored phal hybrids display themselves in graceful cascades. While old spikes will often rebloom, they generally do not display themselves nearly as nicely. (Typically the reblooming old spikes do not cascade at all.) On account of this, some folks prefer to remove all spikes after they have bloomed so that the next season's floral display will not be "marred" by the non-cascading old spikes.
|
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
|
bil liked this post
|
|
12-13-2014, 05:14 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,690
|
|
I'm a notorious cutter. As soon as no more buds are developing, off with the spike! The only exeption to this rule is if I see them starting develop new buds, while the last flowers are still hanging on. I can't cut a spike with developing buds on.
When, where, and how they flower, I'll quote myself from another thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mutant
I think this entirely depends on what hybrid/species it is. My equestris and Ambotris, always spike during spring and flower in the summer. My Little Sister flowers during summer as well, and might flower during winter if it feels up to it. My schilleriana, stuartiana, Wiganiae, and philippinense (and my mini phal which has schilleriana in its background) all usually spike around now. My Tzu Chiang Orange has never stopped flowering. My Queen Beer 'Tiny Doll' starts a new spike, as soon as it's done flowering on the previous one, and same does my Princess Kaiulani. My other NoID is almost also constantly in flower.
So, as I said. It all depends on the particulars of the species/hybrids and their genes, I think.
P.s. It might sound like I'm a wizard at getting my Phals to flower; I'm not. I've just given away most of the reluctant bloomers.
|
I think for example that my mottled leafed Phals mentioned in the quote, all need a certain temperature drop to flower, which naturally happens during fall. The ones that flowers "just because", are not as dependent on temperature drops to initiate spikes.
|
12-14-2014, 01:14 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,196
|
|
How is your Queen Beer 'Tiny Doll' doing?
That is a super plant I think.
I would love to have a ever blooming dark magenta phal like yours.
|
12-14-2014, 07:14 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,690
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYCorchidman
How is your Queen Beer 'Tiny Doll' doing?
That is a super plant I think.
I would love to have a ever blooming dark magenta phal like yours.
|
Well, I almost managed to kill it by overpotting it, so it got root rot. I repotted it a couple of months ago to save it, and it immediately got happy, started growing new roots, and, of course, it produced a spike.
It's a shadow of its former glorious past, but I think I managed to save it at least. It is a super plant. It responded so fast to the repot, I think it can't be an orchid.
|
12-15-2014, 04:32 AM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 292
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mutant
Well, I almost managed to kill it by overpotting it, so it got root rot. I repotted it a couple of months ago to save it, and it immediately got happy, started growing new roots, and, of course, it produced a spike.
It's a shadow of its former glorious past, but I think I managed to save it at least. It is a super plant. It responded so fast to the repot, I think it can't be an orchid.
|
I would kill for a Queen Beer 'Tiny Doll'. Gorgeous! Matter of fact Ive been keeping an eye out for months...it must not be very common if you cant even get it online.
|
12-15-2014, 11:23 AM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2,393
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mutant
Well, I almost managed to kill it by overpotting it, so it got root rot. I repotted it a couple of months ago to save it, and it immediately got happy, started growing new roots, and, of course, it produced a spike.
|
Yeah, you know I have been reading and researching, and I think that we are very badly served by the pot sellers.
As soon as you go up in size for a pot, something like the inverse square law kicks in. increase the pot diameter, and the depth of the pot increases in leaps and bounds.
Surely it's the depth of pot that causes the rot, and not the diameter? If we could access pots that were say just 4 inches deep, then you couldn't overpot, because the roots could never be more than 4 inches from the air.
Of course, finding pots like this is damn near impossible, but I have found some very nice plant pot / planter saucers. They are 3 inches deep, and should suit epiphytes like catts very well. I plan to put a support at one end, and drain holes at the bottom. Wire the plant in place till it has a firm grip, and surround the roots with pieces of pine bark.
I plan to plant them at the bottom of the slope, and see if they are encouraged to grow upwards. If the orchid grips well, then it will be able to be left undisturbed for years while it grows, and if I'm careful. I ought to be able to wash any old, rotting medium out and just replace it with new, all without disturbing the plant.
Last edited by bil; 12-15-2014 at 11:28 AM..
|
12-16-2014, 10:19 AM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,196
|
|
You could try bulb pans. I think even 8'' diameter pan comes with depth of only 4'' or even shallower.
I have been searching for suitable pot for a large plant, but as you say, the issue is that when the diameter gets bigger, so does the depth.
|
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes
|
bil liked this post
|
|
12-16-2014, 02:48 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 2,393
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYCorchidman
You could try bulb pans. I think even 8'' diameter pan comes with depth of only 4'' or even shallower.
I have been searching for suitable pot for a large plant, but as you say, the issue is that when the diameter gets bigger, so does the depth.
|
Yeah, but 8" diameter is nothing. Some Catts really HATE being repotted even if you get the time right, and I want something they can sit in for 5 years or more. That way they can build up to a decent size.
When I bought up some hard canes that were destined as compost material, I ended up with half a dozen that were pink. They ended up next together, and looked sensational, so I'd like next year to put them in a single pot. An 8" bulb pan just won't hold them.
I appreciate that crowding a plant into a small contaner may influence flwering, but I have seen some monster plants that would cover a small table, so some at least are happy to flower when unconstrained.
There's a market out there if orchid suppliers would only realise it.
|
12-16-2014, 06:20 PM
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1,690
|
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by lauraeli
I would kill for a Queen Beer 'Tiny Doll'. Gorgeous! Matter of fact Ive been keeping an eye out for months...it must not be very common if you cant even get it online.
|
Hmm... It seems to be quite common in Sweden, or maybe it isn't anymore? I haven't really been out and checked lately (lately = over a year).
Look for a Phal Tiny Doll, since I think that's the commercial(?) name.
It doesn't really seem to be easily available now...
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:32 PM.
|