My first orchid, trouble with roots! (Air roots)

[Kittey]

Hello everyone!

I purchased my first 2 orchids about a week ago, and I'm having some trouble. The plant is in a basket, not planted in medium and the roots seem very yellow and shriveled to me. The person I purchased them from told me to soak them for 2-3 minutes 2-3 times a week, and I have been following those instructions, but I don't feel like they're getting enough water and a couple of the roots have snapped off while I was soaking the plant (even though I've been very gentle ) The flowers and leaves look healthy though, I'm at a loss.

Pictures are attached!

Advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you!

[LovePhals]

Vanda's need a lot of water, especially if your humidity is low. That is not enough water for your plant so the roots are drying out and breaking. A lot of time humidity is low in winter depending on your zone. I would water that DAILY in the morning. Your roots will be nice and green when watered and look dry/silvery when they need water. Vandas are also heavy feeders so fertilize once a week as well with a balanced fertilizer. Very nice plant!

[Fairorchids]

That is a Vanda (maybe Ascocenda) hybrid. Roots look fine for that type of plant.

These need high humidity to be happy. When grown without mix in the basket, they should ideally be watered daily.

I grow mine in a greenhouse, and I still use a spaghnum/bark mix in the baskets. That allows me to water twrice weekly. In spring/summer/ fall I augment this with a sprinkler controlled by an electronic timer, so they get a morning spritz every day too.

Some 'in the home growers' use an empty flower vase to hold the roots and provide increased humidity in the root zone. We have to wait for someone growing this way to provide more details.

[AussieVanda]

Kittey, I grow mainly vanda's (you probably guessed that from my user name!) I grow outside and they get a minimum of 20 minutes constant watering everyday. On hot days, watering is upped to twice a day. I also fertilise twice a week at half strength.

Bud, who is on this site, also does extremely well growing vandas out of an apartment in (new york?)

Bud has done well mastering vase culture.

By the way, I'd suggest that there is a very strong Gordon Dillon influence on your plant which makes me think that the label should be Vanda Kriengkrai

[jcec1]

I grow vandas successfully indoors in glass vases. They become far easier to manage. I would soak the orchid roots in water to make them supple, find a vase to put the roots in ( I prefer one with a wide base so it remains stable). The plant itself should remain above the vase so it gets plenty of air. I then fill the vase once or twice per week with tepid water or fertiliser and soak for about one hour, then drain it off by tipping out the water. Here is a pic to explain.

[Kittey]

Wow! Thank you all for your responses! I am in New Jersey, and I purchased the plant in Florida, so maybe that's why he said to soak it 3 times a week, because it was getting water from the higher humidity there? I think I may try putting it in a vase!

[jmmehler]

I learned a bit too. JCEC1, I'm going to adapt your style with a slight change. I currently mist all my orchids once or twice a day. I going to use the vase, but mist it, instead of 'fill-n-drain'. Thanks for the tip.

[Orchid Whisperer]

I use a modification of the vase method. I have my vandas in a simple plastic container (seltzer bottle) with just a few rocks in the bottom for stability (not using the rocks as a medium, more for weight to keep it from tipping over).

My plastic containers have small holes cut at the bottom, & just a few holes in the side. I flood the containers in the sink & let them drain, or water them with the hose outdoors. I fertilize weakly a couple times a month. Here are some photos:





The containers keep the roots manageable, yet provide the good air flow that Vandas need.

BTW, this one is in spike, when it blooms, I will likely display it with that plastic container set in a tall opaque vase.

[DeaC]

Originally Posted by Kittey

Wow! Thank you all for your responses! I am in New Jersey, and I purchased the plant in Florida, so maybe that's why he said to soak it 3 times a week, because it was getting water from the higher humidity there? I think I may try putting it in a vase!

from another Jersey girl! You've gotten great advice from the OB experts,of which I'm not on vandas. But bear with me...I need to vent. As you've read so far,vandas are not the easiest and need certain requirements that for some are difficult to achieve,namely high humidity,freq.waterings ,excellent light,etc. I'm just wondering if the vendor had a discussion with you first,perhaps knowing you were new to orchids and suggesting something easier to begin with for your conditions. I'm sure the plant was not inexpensive and it's lovely. For myself,the days of buying plants because of their beauty are gone. I now know what my growing conditions are and base my selections on that. Forgive the rant. I'm anxious to see this beauty and others you can share with us!

[My Green Pets]

I'd give it as much sun as you can and water daily.

As others have said, knowing the humidity in your house will help. Vandas like 80% according to the AOS.

Speaking of which, here's what their culture sheet says:

Vanda
VAN-dah

The Vanda Alliance is made up mostly of warm- and full-sun-growing orchids with colorful flowers. Originating in tropical Asia, they are easily grown in warm climates, where plants are cultivated outside in light shade, such as in a lath house. In climates where winters are cold, they are often summered outside, and grown inside during the winter in a sunny window, or year round in a greenhouse. Smaller growing ascocendas are best outside tropical conditions.

Light is a crucial factor in blooming most vandaceous plants. There are three types of vandas: strap-leaved, semi-terete and terete. The first type has broader, flat leaves, while terete types have round, pencil-shaped leaves. The semi-teretes are hybrids between the two, with an intermediate leaf shape. Terete types need full sun, and are best grown in high-light climates. In a greenhouse, give the plants about 25 to 35 percent shade, less in winter if overcast. Leaves should be a medium green, not dark green. In warm, bright climates, you can grow any type of Vanda outside (if warm) with partial shade for strap-leaved types and semi-teretes (especially in midday in summer) or inside (when cold) in a bright, south window. In climates where winters are overcast, try ascocendas. Grow them outside in summer and in full sun inside during the winter. Be careful to aclimatize plants to avoid burn.

Temperatures for most vandas should be warm; a minimum night temperature of 55° F is recommended. Colder spells can be tolerated for a short time if it is not windy. Optimum temperatures are 60° to 70° F at night, and a maximum of 95° F during the day. Warmer temperatures mean faster growth, which must be balanced with higher humidity, air movement, and increased water and fertilizer. Days should be warm and humid for optimum plant growth.

Water should be applied copiously when the plants are growing, but the roots must dry quickly. Because of this, and their extensive root system, they are mostly grown in slatted-wood baskets, or in pots with a coarse potting medium. If their situation is warm and sunny, they may need daily watering. Water sparingly in the winter or during cloudy weather.

Humidity of 80 percent is ideal. In tropical climates this may be easy to obtain. In a greenhouse, this is easier to provide by using an evaporative cooler. In the home, place the plants on trays of gravel partially filled with water. Air movement must be strong.

Fertilize with a balanced (such as 20-20-20) fertilizer applied full strength once a week during warm weather or use a one-quarter-strength solution at every watering. During cool or cloudy weather, apply fertilizer once every two to four weeks. Use a high-phosphorus fertilizer (such as 10-30-20) every third application to promote flowering.

Potting should be done in the spring. Plants in baskets do not need to be repotted often. Leave them unless the potting medium breaks down. Set the plant, with the old basket intact, into a container of water to make the aerial roots more pliable, and then set plant and basket into a larger basket. For plants in pots, repot in a slightly larger pot, positioning the plant in the center. Use a coarse medium, whether fir bar, tree fern or charcoal, and work it around the roots. Keep shaded, humid, but drier at the roots until new root tips grow. Do not overpot.

http://www.aos.org/Default.aspx?id=207