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  #11  
Old 10-10-2014, 10:45 AM
Optimist Optimist is offline
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Fair enough. Mind you, that oncidium does have a nice spike on it. If the pot was too big, wouldn't it have not thrown a spike, or am I missing something?
Yes. I said that it would be in a small pot, and then the small pot would be in a large pot with stones. So the oncidium is still in a small pot. The big pot is just a draining pot cover at that point.
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  #12  
Old 10-11-2014, 12:28 PM
bil bil is offline
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Yes. I said that it would be in a small pot, and then the small pot would be in a large pot with stones. So the oncidium is still in a small pot. The big pot is just a draining pot cover at that point.
Ah, yes, what I meant is, that oncidium is at the moment in a pot that seems a bit big but it is still throwing a spike. If it was too big, shouldn't it just be forming leaves?
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  #13  
Old 10-11-2014, 01:17 PM
MrHappyRotter MrHappyRotter is offline
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Ah, yes, what I meant is, that oncidium is at the moment in a pot that seems a bit big but it is still throwing a spike. If it was too big, shouldn't it just be forming leaves?
Not necessarily. The concern with over potting, particularly with epiphytic orchids, is that it's very easy to rot the roots, and thus set the plant back or even ultimately kill it.

If you do well, long term, growing your orchids in this manner, then really you're okay. It could be that you water less or that there's something else in your culture that compensates for what would be a problem in most other peoples' care.

Your plant does look healthy, I only brought it up in my original post as a caution for you, in case at some point in the future you noticed the plant is having trouble. Having grown lots of various oncidium alliance plants for many years, I know that about the only ones that would tolerate over potting like that, in my care, in the long term were the miltonias. The rest prefer a tighter fitting pot.
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  #14  
Old 10-11-2014, 01:48 PM
bil bil is offline
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Originally Posted by MrHappyRotter View Post
Not necessarily. The concern with over potting, particularly with epiphytic orchids, is that it's very easy to rot the roots, and thus set the plant back or even ultimately kill it.

If you do well, long term, growing your orchids in this manner, then really you're okay. It could be that you water less or that there's something else in your culture that compensates for what would be a problem in most other peoples' care.

Your plant does look healthy, I only brought it up in my original post as a caution for you, in case at some point in the future you noticed the plant is having trouble. Having grown lots of various oncidium alliance plants for many years, I know that about the only ones that would tolerate over potting like that, in my care, in the long term were the miltonias. The rest prefer a tighter fitting pot.
No, I appreciate the comments. The first year of orchid growing is clearly a steep learning curve, and I appreciate anyone kind enough to try and help me through it.
I am, as you can imagine trying to grasp a 'philosophy' of growing that will get me thru the first year, and keep my orchids alive long enough for me to refine my game, if you know what I mean.
So far, it seems to me that there is a fine line between an orchid drying out, and one rotting away, and the skill lies in finding out where your orchid lies, given the environment you can supply (ie potting medium, watering routine and how quickly its environment dries the potting medium.)
Does that make sense?

So far it is almost as if orchid roots need to dry out to a given extent, almost as if they need to be reset by dryness, before they are watered again, and if you prevent them from drying out enough, they will rot.

The other thing I have picked up is that everyone's environment/potting mix combination is effectively unique, and while someone with the best intentions will tell you how they do it, that may not work for you even though your situation seems the same.

I assume that if my orchid looks well, with a nice plump new pseduobulb and a flower spike in waiting, then more by luck than judgement, I have got the potting medium, regime and so on right (for that one). Is that a reasonable assumption?

Last edited by bil; 10-11-2014 at 01:52 PM..
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  #15  
Old 10-15-2014, 09:32 AM
Optimist Optimist is offline
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I have had ongoing cognitive dissonance over this subject. How can a plant that can be mounted on a branch be in too small a pot. It should be less a root ball and more a root flow any way.
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  #16  
Old 10-19-2014, 02:25 PM
bil bil is offline
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Default Update already!

Well, the Hard cane dens are blooming away, not only is the flower spike on the Vanda expanding, but a second lollipop is peeping shyly from between the leaves!

I was showing the Cattleyas to a friend and I was bitching that some of the flower sheaths had aborted, and I probably wouldn't get any flowers this year, when she said "But that one's fattening up." Not only that but so had some of the others too. Not all are going to flower, but I may have 4 that will!

Sadly I can't claim credit as I bought them this summer, but hey, if I can get them to flower next year, You can call me Captain Smugpants. ESPECIALLY since I have been assured by some of the 'experts ' here in Andalucia that you can't grow orchids here.
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Happy snaps, spikes, I'm a happy noob.-vanda-lollipop-3-jpg   Happy snaps, spikes, I'm a happy noob.-hard-cane-dens-dark-red-jpg   Happy snaps, spikes, I'm a happy noob.-hard-cane-dens-pink-jpg   Happy snaps, spikes, I'm a happy noob.-hard-cane-dens-white-jpg  
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  #17  
Old 10-20-2014, 12:35 AM
LovePhals LovePhals is offline
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They are all beautiful!!
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2014, 05:18 AM
bil bil is offline
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They are all beautiful!!
Thank you.
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