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  #11  
Old 09-01-2014, 10:55 AM
cbuchman cbuchman is offline
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Originally Posted by mimigirl View Post
Cbuckman that is an intriguing method. Which other varieties have you potted in clay and set in a saucer? I bet i have a few that this might work. Thanks.

---------- Post added at 09:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:43 AM ----------

Thanks to all of you for taking the time to reply. I can use all the help i can get.
I also use this method for Phrags (in plastic) and some smaller bulbos (net pots). When I am also using it for a Phal basal keiki (clay pot) that I am trying to get going. The keiki was no doing well until I started to supply constant and consistent moisture. Also a small Dendrochilum (clay) which seemed to be going into a decline due to lack of moisture - they jury is still out on that one , but it's decline seems to have been arrested, so there is hope.

I haven't tried it on Lycaste, but I am tempted - especially for the smaller clay pots and only when in active growth.

I have several small minis in clay and in the winters when indoors with low humidity, I will often water from from the bottom and then let the water dry out in the saucer (or empty it out). My orchids seems to respond to this "bottom" watering. However, you have to watch and make sure that they media isn't soggy or you know what happens .

If you try this, report on how it works out for you. We're all always learning from each other.
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  #12  
Old 09-01-2014, 12:09 PM
tucker85 tucker85 is offline
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I like plastic for phals and paphs and clay for orchids with pseudo-bulbs (cattleyas, oncidium, encyclia). Which ever material you use, keep the pots small. Orchids prefer to grow root-bound in small pots. Over potting kills a lot of orchids.
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  #13  
Old 09-01-2014, 04:21 PM
katrina katrina is offline
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I also use clay for orchids that like to be consistently moist. For example, I have a couple of Cochleanthes. Cochleanthes have no pbulbs or other water storage mechanism, so they need a constant supply of moisture. I am having very good luck with a very open media (tree fiber, large chunk perlite with large orchiata bark) in clay pots. the pot is then placed in a saucer with 1/4" water in it. The clay wicks up the water and maintains even moisture. It seems to be working well as I have multiple new growths. I'll let you know when I get it to flower
Excellent point! It's also great as a take on evaporative cooling. Even more so when a net pot is placed in a clay pot then placed in a saucer of water. Masdies seem to respond very well to the set up....both.
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  #14  
Old 09-01-2014, 04:47 PM
mimigirl mimigirl is offline
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I dont know how to add a pic in a reply so it will be separate. I know that den. unicum will rest and lose leaves. But mine is also drying at ends and pieces are falling off. It is about 1/4 of size it was 3 months ago. It is in spag in a plastic pot. Maybe but it in ochiata in clay pot and water from bottom? Help
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  #15  
Old 09-01-2014, 04:49 PM
mimigirl mimigirl is offline
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This is my poor unicum
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  #16  
Old 09-01-2014, 09:05 PM
cbuchman cbuchman is offline
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I dont know how to add a pic in a reply so it will be separate. I know that den. unicum will rest and lose leaves. But mine is also drying at ends and pieces are falling off. It is about 1/4 of size it was 3 months ago. It is in spag in a plastic pot. Maybe but it in ochiata in clay pot and water from bottom? Help
Mimigirl - Recommend that you start a new thread for this one so that the Den experts see it.
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  #17  
Old 09-02-2014, 10:05 AM
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Orchid Whisperer Orchid Whisperer is offline
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Excellent point! It's also great as a take on evaporative cooling. Even more so when a net pot is placed in a clay pot then placed in a saucer of water. Masdies seem to respond very well to the set up....both.
Katrina, the evaporative cooling effect has continued to help me keep my Coelogyne cristata division happy and growing, even here in Georgia. I provide that extra water for cooling by creating a "zeer" from 2 unglazed clay pots & sand.

We have had temperatures in the upper 90s F several times this summer, the zeer has kept the roots cool & planthappy for this cold-growing species. My C. cristata division has more than doubled in size over the past 2 years growing in the zeer.
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