Which varieties need temp drop to bloom

[mimigirl]

I know that there are some orchids that need a nite temperature drop in order to bloom. Which varities need this?

[Cntry]

Most all orchids need a 15 degree drop at night time compared to day time temperatures in order to bloom.

Phalaenopsis Night time temperatures 60 F
Day time temps 70 to 80 F up to 95 F

Cattleya's Night time temperatures 55 to 60 F
Day time temps 70 to 80 F

Dendrobium Phal's Night time Temperatures 60 to 65 F
Day time temps 75F to 85 F

Paphiopedilum Night Temperatures 55 to 60F
Day time temps 65 to 75 F

Cymbidium Standard Late Summer to Autumn
Night Temperature 50 to 60F
Day time Temps 75F to 85 F

Winter Plants in bud-Nights 45F to 60F
Daytime 65F to 75F ( this is for the Cymbidiums.)

Vanda's Night time Temps 60F to 70F
Day time temperatures 75F to 95F

Oncidium Night time Temperature 55F to 60F
Day time Temperature 70F to 80F

I hope this give you a little idea of what your orchid may need.

[mimigirl]

Cntry, thank you. What do you mean by 'winter plants in bud'? Also, i wasnt real clear. Do some varieties need to be out in the fall for the temp drop in order to bloom in spring? I still dont think i am asking this correctly.

[Cntry]

Some plants need what is called a winter rest. Its where you water less or not at all. The temperature is dropped to produce spikes and buds. What type of orchid do you have? We maybe able to help you a bit better.

[mimigirl]

I have a few different varities. Would i just be safe setting them all out if temps dont go below 50? I have, and hope my abbreviations are right: phal, paph, phrag, catt, encycl, oncid, cymb, ceratostylus, miltonia, dend, dinema polybulbon.

[Cntry]

Mim yes I would say so. The orchids I put up there are the ones I know about. Take the others place them in google one at a time and place culture next to it or care and you should get the more exact answers.

dinema polybulbon- cool to warm conditions

Miltonia
TEMPERATURES: The ideal temperature should be kept below 85º F. and above 68º F. if possible. If the temperature rises above this limit, shade and humidity should be increased. The night temperature should be in the 58º F. to 60º F. range. A differential of about 10º F. between day and night temperature is very beneficial.

Ceratostylis Species: incognita Origin: Philippines

Intermediate to Warm; 58°F min. to 88°F max.

[WhiteRabbit]

You may want to peruse the AOS culture sheets
http://www.aos.org/Default.aspx?id=75

[mimigirl]

I didn't know you could look info up on AOS site if you were not a member. Thanks for that. I will read there first and ask if their explation is unclear or does not contain my question. I love OB!

[Ray]

Cntry, I'm sorry, but I think your generalizations are simply too broad.

Plants that live near the equator rarely see any significant chilling, yet bloom fine.

Phal. bellina, in situ, typically sees 85°-90° days and 72°-75° nights year round. Phal. honghensis, on the other hand, sees mid- to upper 30's on winter nights, with upper 50's days, and roughly low 60's to mid 70's in the summer.

Dr. Y-T Wang, then at Texas A&M, showed that it is not a 15° drop in nighttime temp that initiates spikes in most phals, it's an AVERAGE temperature drop of that much. Check this out.

I'm quite sure there are plenty of examples in the other genera, too. Most unifoliate cattleyas, for example, respond to changes in day length, not temperature.

A "winter rest" really isn't a time of less water; it's really a time of less nitrogen. In nature, as dry season limits the deposition of nutrients on the plants - no rain, no washing of the canopy overhead. For those plants that need it, you may actually water to your heart's content, but don't you dare feed the plants!

[Cntry]

Originally Posted by Ray

Cntry, I'm sorry, but I think your generalizations are simply too broad.

Plants that live near the equator rarely see any significant chilling, yet bloom fine.

Phal. bellina, in situ, typically sees 85°-90° days and 72°-75° nights year round. Phal. honghensis, on the other hand, sees mid- to upper 30's on winter nights, with upper 50's days, and roughly low 60's to mid 70's in the summer.

Dr. Y-T Wang, then at Texas A&M, showed that it is not a 15° drop in nighttime temp that initiates spikes in most phals, it's an AVERAGE temperature drop of that much. Check this out.

I'm quite sure there are plenty of examples in the other genera, too. Most unifoliate cattleyas, for example, respond to changes in day length, not temperature.

A "winter rest" really isn't a time of less water; it's really a time of less nitrogen. In nature, as dry season limits the deposition of nutrients on the plants - no rain, no washing of the canopy overhead. For those plants that need it, you may actually water to your heart's content, but don't you dare feed the plants!

Ray, I to am new also and I was giving advice that was given to me trying to help someone new. Thanks for correcting me here and letting us all know the correct way to grow our orchids..