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  #11  
Old 08-05-2014, 11:53 AM
bil bil is offline
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Max light levels. Cats, dens, cymb, oncidium and vandas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairorchids View Post
If you raise the light level gradually, many orchids can be grown in higher light than we normally give them.

I am in NJ at 40 deg N, which is roughly same lattitude as southern Spain. Here I can bring orchids outside at the end of May (Cymbidiums in early May).

Cymbidium: I place these on north side of the house for 7-10 days = in shade from 10AM to 6PM (10-18). Then they can go into full sun, but you need to water more in the high light.

Vanda, incl Neofinetia, Renanthera & Rhynchostylis, I place under a lattice (I will post photo later) for 7-10 days. Then the lattice comes off and they get full sun through the end of September. I try to spray them with water twice a day, while in full sun.

Cattleya, Zygopetalum, Oncidium hybrids & most Dendrobiums do well in mottled light, standing under the hanging Vandaceous plants.

This year I am growing all my reedstem Epidendrums & Aussie Dendrobiums (kingianum, speciosum & mixed hybrids) in full sun after 1 week under a lattice. I tried a Dendrobium Phalaenopsis hybrid also, but it could not handle the full sun, so it came back inside.

Paphs I always cover with a 40% shade cloth (conventional wisdom says 50% for Paphs).

And here is photo of my Vanda rack, with Catts etc. standing at the lower level. I start out covering top & 4 sides with lattice panels (1 handing on the right side), but they come off after 7-10 days. I do have to water more while the plants are in the full sun.

My guess is that Cattleyas can tolerate 'almost full sun', provided that light level is raised in 2 steps (from lattice shading, to about 15-20% shade).
Nice orchid rack there. Is that front opening facing S N, E;W or what?

---------- Post added at 09:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:51 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by MattWoelfsen View Post
LOL Bil. That sums it up pretty good. BUT, there is always a but....potting media is not as critical as light, water, and air. For the most part orchids live in trees, tree branches, on rock outcrops, and other in hospitable places for regular plants. I think orchids were intended to colonize these places and lead the way towards taming their environment. There is nothing scientific about what I just stated. All the different types of orchids I have owned, I have tried to understand their native habitat. I figured if I knew their provenance, I could try to provide the same conditions and they would grow here in Fort Wayne, Indiana. Or over there in beautiful Spain.
Yeah, let's face it, the closer you van get to what they are evolved to be in, the better and easier they will grow.
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  #12  
Old 08-05-2014, 02:28 PM
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Subrosa Subrosa is offline
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I'm at about 40' N, and grow Catts, Dendrobium kingianum, speciosum and loddigesi along with my Catasetum hybrids in full sun.
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  #13  
Old 08-05-2014, 03:40 PM
bil bil is offline
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I'm at about 40' N, and grow Catts, Dendrobium kingianum, speciosum and loddigesi along with my Catasetum hybrids in full sun.
Full sun eh? No problems at all, or suggestions as to how to get it to work safely?
If so, always appreciated.
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  #14  
Old 08-05-2014, 03:54 PM
czayta czayta is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattWoelfsen View Post
Cattleya, especially Laelia rupicolous orcids (from Brasil) like even brighter light and some tolerate direct sunlight--although you have to harden them before placing them in bright light. Cattleya are very responsive to light--they'll get very red leaves.
Are these red leaves okay? I had some Lc. seedlings that I was growing under a four bulb T5HO light but they all started turning red/purple so I backed them away from the light because I was concerned they were getting sunburn/too much light.
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  #15  
Old 08-05-2014, 03:59 PM
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Full sun eh? No problems at all, or suggestions as to how to get it to work safely?
If so, always appreciated.
I just take my time when things warm up, going from a south facing windowsill to the eastern side of the house, then to the south side under an overhang, then finally to full southern exposure.
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  #16  
Old 08-05-2014, 03:59 PM
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Full sun eh? No problems at all, or suggestions as to how to get it to work safely?
If so, always appreciated.
I just take my time when things warm up, going from a south facing windowsill to the eastern side of the house, then to the south side under an overhang, then finally to full southern exposure.
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  #17  
Old 08-06-2014, 06:13 AM
bil bil is offline
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Now here is my question, and I would appreciate some input on this please. On the one hand I have this.

" Hot leaves are a no no."

While on the other we clearly see people growing several orchids, Vandas, Catts, cymbs and hardcane Dens in full sun at 40' N.

So, those plants are clearly going to have hot leaves. Do any of you 'Full Sun people have a regime for watering and misting please?


Now the plants I have are new bought, and I notice that the roots thay have are to put it politely, less than spectacular. For example, one softcane Den had roots that were like a knotted clump of fine wood wool. Now, I can see big fat white roots with green tips coming out which makes me happy, but also makes me cautious.

Would it be fair to say that forays into the full sun should be reserved for those plants that have a root system you have 100% faith in rather than new bought plants with dodgy roots?
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  #18  
Old 08-08-2014, 06:32 PM
Optimist Optimist is offline
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I would always go at least 1/4th shade. Anything I have outside (New Mexico) is under a tree, and gets morning light, but is under tree shade or building shade for most of the day. It is rather hot and arid here as well.

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  #19  
Old 08-08-2014, 07:13 PM
bil bil is offline
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I would always go at least 1/4th shade. Anything I have outside (New Mexico) is under a tree, and gets morning light, but is under tree shade or building shade for most of the day. It is rather hot and arid here as well.

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What sort of temps please?
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  #20  
Old 08-14-2014, 01:21 PM
NYCorchidman NYCorchidman is offline
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It really depends on what specific varieties you have.
To be on the safe side yet still getting the great result in both growth and blooming, oncidiums and dendrobiums should places where they get all morning sun, but protected from the afternoon sun.
Or, you can go the other way around. Keep them off the sun, but expose them to late afternoon sun.
Direct sun will scorch ondidiums and dendrobiums (again, some like nobiles will be fine under direct sun).

Other genera you mentioned, cattleyas, vandas, and cymbidiums GENERALLY speaking, will take direct sun as long as you water and mist them good enough and there is enough air movement.
Midday hot sun can still be a problem but not in just a day. They will gradually yellow. When you see the leaves yellow, but still see green cast, then you don't have to worry much as that yellowish green leaves usually bring the best flowering.
Once you see burn spots or too much yellow developing quickly, then you want some protection.

To save any hassel, it's best to out thin shade over them, or place them where tall trees can shade them in the middle of the day.
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