Cattleya leaf problem black spot

[bil]

Originally Posted by JMNYC

Believe it or not just plain cinnamon is very effective! The usual fungicide powders available for dilution as well....and flowers of sulphur. We must make sure the cures do no harm!

But for me, scoring the leaf tissue is important...for the purpose I shared.

Yeah, for a cut, but I meant when you referred to a fungicidal bath.

[JMNYC]

See section circled in red.

[JMNYC]

Originally Posted by bil

Yeah, for a cut, but I meant when you referred to a fungicidal bath.

Well, what meant, obviously, was to employ some powdered fungicide solution both for the foliar spraying and the drench.

[bil]

Originally Posted by JMNYC

See section circled in red.Attachment 102375

OK, so cut in that section. Thanks.

[james mickelso]

If it is dry and the area is not spreading, I would leave it alone for now. It is pseudomonas which is common in cattleyas. As long as it has dried up it is ok. If you want to cut the leaf off, cut it at the bottom of the leaf with a sterile blade and dab some powdered cinnamon on the cut.

[JMNYC]

Afterthought: I am wondering about air movement in the growing area. Also, the condition of the roots.

---------- Post added at 02:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:26 PM ----------

Originally Posted by james mickelso

If it is dry and the area is not spreading, I would leave it alone for now. It is pseudomonas which is common in cattleyas. As long as it has dried up it is ok. If you want to cut the leaf off, cut it at the bottom of the leaf with a sterile blade and dab some powdered cinnamon on the cut.

I believe it only dried after he used the peroxide. Then, the yellowing of the entire bulb commenced.

[bil]

It's out in the open, with a good deal of air movement. The roots were in a terrible state when it arrived.

[Brooke]

Bil here is a link describing what it appears you have on the leaf. Scroll to the bottom to read the preferred treatment for it. Your idea of peroxide was correct and hopefully you have stopped the spread of the infection.

http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/PD...ySueBottom.pdf

JMNYC peroxide is one of the best things to keep on hand to stop many infections. Between it and the brown Listerine you might be able to stop infections such as crown rot. Peroxide will oxidize on skin but using it a couple of times on an orchid will not hurt the plant and might stop the infection.

Please remember to keep the peroxide in the original bottle because it loses its potency when exposed to light.

Brooke

[JMNYC]

Originally Posted by bil

It's out in the open, with a good deal of air movement. The roots were in a terrible state when it arrived.

Thanks so much.....I absolutely knew that! I am so thrilled and proud of you that you checked that and enable the recovery!

---------- Post added at 03:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:44 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Brooke

Bil here is a link describing what it appears you have on the leaf. Scroll to the bottom to read the preferred treatment for it. Your idea of peroxide was correct and hopefully you have stopped the spread of the infection.

http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/PD...ySueBottom.pdf

JMNYC peroxide is one of the best things to keep on hand to stop many infections. Between it and the brown Listerine you might be able to stop infections such as crown rot. Peroxide will oxidize on skin but using it a couple of times on an orchid will not hurt the plant and might stop the infection.

Please remember to keep the peroxide in the original bottle because it loses its potency when exposed to light.

Brooke

'Preferred" is nuanced and relative and always open to debate. I almost never get bacterial issues, but I've known about the agents in question forever, and if I see any related problem beginning I choose those I mentioned.

I might also share I am adverse to all dogma. Erodes the dynamic potential of any journey!

[bil]

Originally Posted by JMNYC

Thanks so much.....I absolutely knew that! I am so thrilled and proud of you that you checked that and enable the recovery!

Damn thing had but one live root and the rest was a solid mass of dead roots and sphagnum moss. I'm a noob, but even I know that's not right.

It's now in a nice open mix of bark and sphagnum moss. I can't see new root growth, but it is throwing a nice fat shoot. The other cat that had the same root problem is thrusting roots out like a little darling. So far it seems to me that no matter how screwed they are, these plants will almost come back from the dead. (Almost).

---------- Post added at 02:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:49 PM ----------

Originally Posted by Brooke

Bil here is a link describing what it appears you have on the leaf. Scroll to the bottom to read the preferred treatment for it. Your idea of peroxide was correct and hopefully you have stopped the spread of the infection.

http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/PD...ySueBottom.pdf

JMNYC peroxide is one of the best things to keep on hand to stop many infections. Between it and the brown Listerine you might be able to stop infections such as crown rot. Peroxide will oxidize on skin but using it a couple of times on an orchid will not hurt the plant and might stop the infection.

Please remember to keep the peroxide in the original bottle because it loses its potency when exposed to light.

Brooke

OK, thanks for that. I do like peroxide, because it isn't in itself anything that is too chemical, if you know what I mean. It doesn't in itself leave a lot of residues. However, there are other treatments, I agree. I like powdered sulphur, but the problems I have had getting it here, you would weep.

Peroxide is great for getting bloodstains out of concrete. (don't ask)