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  #1  
Old 07-04-2014, 01:13 PM
judith_arquette judith_arquette is offline
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Mini Phal in sphag Female
Default Mini Phal in sphag

Newest addition: a beautiful "mini" Phal <3

It's potted in sphag and I'd like to leave it alone but have no experience watering this medium. This grower has really upped his game in potting and root quality recently. How long between waterings should I let this sphag be dry? I'll be using the skewer method. Thanks
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  #2  
Old 07-04-2014, 08:11 PM
WhiteRabbit WhiteRabbit is offline
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Let the sphag become almost completely dry.
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  #3  
Old 07-04-2014, 08:31 PM
JMNYC JMNYC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteRabbit View Post
Let the sphag become almost completely dry.
+1!!!

As per one which just came my way with major tackiness only days ago, I will get a link, hold on.

K.....found it:
http://www.orchidboard.com/community...sentation.html

Nothing like fresh, clean, springy pinkish NZ sphag for the little ones; even in slotted clay, this one is only being watered or watered and fed every 5 days.....when the medium is almost completely dry.

Last edited by JMNYC; 07-04-2014 at 08:36 PM..
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:46 PM
Dante1709 Dante1709 is offline
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I find that phals (minis included) don't do very well in moss, but it's still possible to grow them. Let it dry almost completely. If you can see any roots, then water them when the velamen is silvery/light green.

Once it's done blooming though, I'd repot it. I don't think it's a good idea to use moss alone for phals, since they have larger roots, need more airflow and like to dry out.
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Old 07-04-2014, 08:53 PM
JMNYC JMNYC is offline
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Originally Posted by Dante1709 View Post
I find that phals (minis included) don't do very well in moss, but it's still possible to grow them. Let it dry almost completely. If you can see any roots, then water them when the velamen is silvery/light green.

Once it's done blooming though, I'd repot it. I don't think it's a good idea to use moss alone for phals, since they have larger roots, need more airflow and like to dry out.

As I think I've posted here somewhere, I pot my larger phals in 2/3>3/4 bark mix at the bottom and 1/3>1/4 moss at the top. I always respond to the reality of the individual plant.

But I also pot my small ones in only moss, either in slotted clear, or, if plastic, with openings I made around the lower perimeter of the pot; triangles. I do that with almost all my plastic pots regardless of which medium I choose.

Remember, some very responsible, big commercial growers in the world use only moss for Phals! Most of what comes my way now is potted in moss.....including some really big standards in large pots.

Some people tend to overwater; our growing conditions are case specific along with how much time we have to spend on tending our collections; many things impact.

Last edited by JMNYC; 07-04-2014 at 08:59 PM..
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:27 PM
Dante1709 Dante1709 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMNYC View Post
As I think I've posted here somewhere, I pot my larger phals in 2/3>3/4 bark mix at the bottom and 1/3>1/4 moss at the top. I always respond to the reality of the individual plant.

But I also pot my small ones in only moss, either in slotted clear, or, if plastic, with openings I made around the lower perimeter of the pot; triangles. I do that with almost all my plastic pots regardless of which medium I choose.

Remember, some very responsible, big commercial growers in the world use only moss for Phals! Most of what comes my way now is potted in moss.....including some really big standards in large pots.

Some people tend to overwater; our growing conditions are case specific along with how much time we have to spend on tending our collections; many things impact.
While I do agree that moss can be a great media for those with the right conditions and those who don't overwater, I wouldn't recommend it for someone who is just starting out with 100% moss. I think it's easier to use it in mixes and see how it works with your environment, and when to rewater it.

However, I'm interested by your potting method. Do you think it adds more humidity to the air? Do your roots grow better?
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Old 07-05-2014, 02:17 AM
JMNYC JMNYC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dante1709 View Post
While I do agree that moss can be a great media for those with the right conditions and those who don't overwater, I wouldn't recommend it for someone who is just starting out with 100% moss. I think it's easier to use it in mixes and see how it works with your environment, and when to rewater it.

However, I'm interested by your potting method. Do you think it adds more humidity to the air? Do your roots grow better?
Hi, Dante!

I agree with the maybe the moss is not right in the beginning for someone with the propensity to overwater, but perhaps still for the tiny Phals.

Again, so many variables indigenous to the grower, the growing environment, etc.

Now, What I shared re potting media, only applies to my Phals. Most of my Catt alliance plants are potted in coarse tree fern. Depending on the plant, the size of the pot, I either cut the “twigs” in half, en mass in big clumps....or reduce their length even further for the small ones.

Now, my strategy re 2/3 bark mix and 1/3 NA moss topper has nothing to do with humidity; when potting a large Phal using fresh bark mix, I find the moss topper helps retain just the right amount of moisture after watering, but still not too much.

Early on, I evolved a way to not have to worry about humidity. In winter, I exploit the prewar fabulous engineering of this Landmark building, using the heat emanating from our enclosed radiators whose broad tops comprise our windowsills.

In my living room growing area, I use huge, deep, clear plastic storage containers I find in the garbage to cover the entire radiator top. I put each pot into its own deep container inside the containers. I then fill the bins with water.....and, that the heat form the radiator heats the water and supplies all the humidity to what I grow in that area (and beyond) any plant could want. Course, I need to keep replenishing I all winter, and also, when the algae gets too disgusting, remove everything, siphon out the gallons of water, take the containers to the kitchen and clean them.

I evolved a similar solution in my smaller growing area, also employing trays I repurposed from what they started out as. These trays have coated wire grids sitting on the tops of the shallow trays I cut with a hacksaw, and those trays are also filled with water; no need for individual deep plastic saucer in this area, given the plants sit on top of the grids.

Plus, in that area, I grow the majority of my Phals hanging from ceiling hooks I installed--- I use masonry bits, lead anchors, special hooks with collars; each one holds a ton, our ceilings are concrete under plaster. I use lengths of coat hangers and anything I find which I can use for multi Phal hangers from individual hooks.

The increased humidity from the trays also supplies them...forget all my houseplants...
I factor in the changing light, including the angle, and move each plant around in response to those changes.
My only humidity issue presents around this time of year, when it is necessary to turn on the air conditioning.

My entire essence/sensibility, you could say, is unconventional…meaning, I learn the basics in any given endeavor first and fast…..then,observe acutely, then discard what I find anachronistic/doctrinaire or not viable, factor in every observable element, and invent things.

So, know that what I do is right for me as an individual, and, factoring in every element of the reality of my growing conditions; it may not be right for others! Well perhaps, cept for how I increase air movement to Phil roots in plastic using hot knives top open triangles around the lower perimeter. I only pot most of my Phals in plastic simply to be able to hang them easily using commercial 3 wire hangers (I burn 3 equidistant holes the tops of those pots with a hot skewer)…..everything else, I pot in clay. Well, except for my Paphs.

I also make giant plastic hanging containers for some of my ginormous specimen houseplants I have to grow hanging, all far bigger and deeper than anything commercially available, using the burn three equidistant holes around the tops trick. Hold on, it’s dark out, but perhaps I can make a pic of only one example of the latter and put it up here.

I hope you didn’t fall asleep!
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  #8  
Old 07-05-2014, 02:52 AM
judith_arquette judith_arquette is offline
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Thanks all!
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Old 07-05-2014, 03:16 AM
JMNYC JMNYC is offline
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Follow up as promised:

Hi, I am back, just wrote a follow up to put up the two pics I made, it would not submit and, when I hit the back button, it disappeared. Very annoying.

I took two pics: one of my ginormous Nephrolepsis (Boston fern, not sure re the variety)---I divide it every two years, and my, for me, transporting, also ginormous Asparagus plumosus (setaceus)

See why I must make hanging baskets for these and many others out of huge, deep plastic pots not meant to hang? Nothing is commercially available.

The Boston fern’s current width, frond end to frond end, is well over 3 feet. I noticed my new fav Paph bulldog in this image. While it is closer to the windows, see how tiny it looks?

I grow all my orchids in the midst all these other fab creatures in both rooms in which I grow. And note: all the luminous with health houseplants, give off oxygen and expire, guess what… HUMIDITY!

Visualize! In nature, most orchids grow among other plants! Mostly giant trees and other dense with foliage plants!
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Last edited by JMNYC; 07-05-2014 at 03:18 AM..
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:44 PM
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james mickelso james mickelso is offline
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Phals grow very well in moss. In fact they grow very well hanging on a wire with no media at all. Baskets, pots, mounted in an old tire. The media/pot doesn't matter at all. How you water and when you water is all that matters. This is most likely potted in moss that is very compacted. If left in this moss it will eventually rot, if it hasn't already started too. You can actually repot this now. In flower. Into the same moss in which it is potted now. Now kidding. I do it all the time and my flowers last a month or more. That depends on how old the flowers are to begin with and not being repotted. A month or so ago I posted a short repotting pictorial. I pulled out all the compacted moss, placed the plant back into the original pot, and proceeded to place the old moss right back into the pot. Plants grew very well. In fact they are still growing with new leaves and roots. If you are careful not to bend or break the roots while repotting then the flowers don't skip a beat. If you want to wait until the flowers drop naturally then keep this phal on the dry side. Skewers are fine but I much prefer the weight of the plant as it is a better indicator of how dry the entire root mass is. But I would rather you drip water onto the roots a little at a time. There is no harm in pulling this plant out of the pot right now and inspecting the roots. Won't hurt it a bit. If there is more than a little rot on a few of the roots....re-pot now. If they look healthy, wait. Your choice. Post a couple pics for us of the roots.
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