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07-04-2014, 01:08 PM
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Leaf Color Question
I got a NOID phal. from a nursery, and it was kept indoors for display.
The leaves are very dark green already, indicating lack of light.
If I move it to proper lighting, how long will it take to get the dark green leaves turn yellow-green ?
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07-04-2014, 03:47 PM
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Gradually increase the light. Don't do it all at one time. Orchids grow slowly and accustom themselves to new surroundings sloly. They change over a few weeks or so. The goal is a sour apple green, not yellow. I am not sure about phelps leaves, but catt leaves sow a dark and light mottling during the change over. Also, It seems that some phals are resistant to becoming lighter. I have one that is in exactly the same place as lighter phals and is getting the same light and care, but is still dark. Not sure why. If it has enough sun and water energy to convert it to new roots and leaves it is usually in a good spot.
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07-04-2014, 04:41 PM
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Only certain species have the apple green leaves and some have a darker color to them. It depends on the genetics in your Phal and may never achieve a pretty light green color without bleaching out the leaves.
Brooke
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07-04-2014, 04:52 PM
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I agree with Brooke. Leaf color is more about genetics than light levels.
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07-05-2014, 10:56 AM
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Actually it's both, but if you grow any phalaenopsis in sufficient light for the leaves to be "yellow green", it's too much, and the plant will no do as well as it will when shaded.
Phalaenopsis plants are generally very low-light plants. The best phals I have ever seen were growing in a greenhouse that was was SO algae-covered, no direct sun was getting in at all - it took a few minutes for my eyes to adjust to the lack of light when I went in!
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07-05-2014, 11:49 AM
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As explained, phals come in different leaf colors and it is determined mostly by the genetic make up of the plant. Ray is correct in that light level can push the color one way or the other. Phals aren't really that finicky when it comes to light levels. Color isn't the issue but intensity is. The shadow cast by your hand is a good indicator of this. Hold your hand one foot above the phal. The shadow cast by the edge of your hand on the phal should transition from shadow to light in about 1" to 2" inch wide. It shouldn't feel very warm after 1 minute. Overly bright light on a phal can inhibit flowering just as overly bright light on a cattleya can inhibit flowering. Cattleyas are much more sensitive to low light levels when flowering than phals.
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07-05-2014, 11:58 AM
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I find the Phals that have quite a bit of purple or pink in their blooms have darker green leaves and purple pigment at their edges etc. The white and yellow flowering Phals tend to have the lighter green leaves. And of course the species violacea is known for its almost bright lime green leaves.
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07-10-2014, 02:58 AM
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Thanks, folks, very helpful ...
@Ray, "Phalaenopsis plants are generally very low-light plants. The best phals I have ever seen were growing in a greenhouse that was was SO algae-covered, no direct sun was getting in at all - it took a few minutes for my eyes to adjust to the lack of light when I went in!"
This is really interesting, I was planning to build a mini-greenhouse, and I'll make it simulate what you saw ...
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07-11-2014, 07:31 AM
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So if most of my Phals have dark green leaves but are still pushing out new growth the lighting is adequate?
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07-11-2014, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by judith_arquette
So if most of my Phals have dark green leaves but are still pushing out new growth the lighting is adequate?
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Phals do have quite dark green foliage compared to a well lit Cattleya or many other orchids. If it is blooming when it should and growing leaves, it should be adequate. I have several sitting on a table beside a window that faces north and they have bloomed. The room does get light from eastern windows as well, but the plants are quite a distance from those windows.
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