Phal: Small root system, wrinkled leaves and non opening blooms

[Cym Ladye]

What is the problem with a plain old green plastic fern pot of proper size? These are easily attainable at your local nursery/box store and if you do not like the look, set it into a cache pot of a little larger size in between watering.

It also appears that you have not buried the roots into the media far enough and are not watering enough for the medium bark. You might also consider using a 1/4 strength dose of a balanced slow release fertilizer worked into the top 1" of the media.

[Yelena Kosh]

How should I water it? Bark dries up so quickly.

Run the water for a couple of minutes over the sink or fill it up with water in the cache pot and let it rest for 10 min?

[tarev]

I usually dunk my Phal root zone area only for about ten minutes. Then let drain out all the water and I ran the ceiling fan or open the window for added air circulation as it continues to dry out further. In due time the bark media will be more moisture retentive, but while it is new it really dries out fast.

If there is any water on the leaves I dry it off with paper towel, being careful getting water on the crown, and I do my orchid watering in the morning.

[james mickelso]

I think I see an inner plastic pot inside the decorative pot. If so I'll wager that it is sitting down inside the pot which would block the air flow. Put a couple of pieces of gravel in the bottom of the decorative pot to lift it up, exposing the drainage holes on the bottom of the inner pot. The surface roots look ok. I'd like to see some pics of the surface roots up close. This small plant issued two spikes of flowers. That isexacting a toll on this small plant. The plant is taking the energy stored in the lower leaf to help support those two spikes. It can't do it quickly enough to satisfy the draining of energy so the flowers are taking a long time to finish blooming. The plant is also drawing energy friom the rest of the leaves and roots so that is why the other leaves are drooping. The lower roots were probably in trouble before you purchased it. Was it potted in bark when you got it or did you repot into bark? Being in bark can be a good thing depending on how you water, how humid or dry your growing environment is, what the temperature is in your growing area, and what the light levels are in your growing area. All of these factors will determine what this plant will do in the future.

[lotis146]

I'm pretty sure this is one plant I have: Phal. Minho Princess x Lightning??? I got mine in bloom with some buds in March. It was packed a bit tight in moss when I got it from a greenhouse. I didn't water it for 3.5 weeks, but the blooms still opened and a smaller 2nd spike grew (only grew to produce two buds). At this point I noticed some springtails (harmless but often evidence of deteriorating medium) and then repotted in moss just not as tight. Let it soak then weakly fertilized. This plant takes a long time to dry up in this moss and i only water when it's totally dry, at which pt I soak it for 20 minutes and fertilize. It sits next to an east window. Its flowers have only just started withering in the last couple weeks but it still loses only one flower at a time, so it's taking its time. The small spike, one bud finally opened last week. However I'm not seeing root growth or any new leaves but it's holding on. Oh and it has been on and off warm and cool, often quite warm in my house.

So after all that, what was the condition of the buds/blooms when you got it? Were they small buds? I agree with some others that that pot might not be appropriate and you might be better off putting it in a pot with holes. What did the roots look like when you repotted? You said only the surface (assuming that's what you meant by superficial) roots are okay? How often do you water right now?

What brought me to OB some I don't know 6 months ago now is it...(?)...was an extremely wrinkled, limp-leafed Phal that hadn't spike in a while and a similar mini phal that hadn't bloomed in 5 years. I cut off all the rotted roots and repotted them in an orchid mix I added coconut coir and moss to. I then paid closer attention to just when the medium dries out, not completely but close, and watered them by soaking them for AT LEAST 20 minutes usually more (unintentionally). This has been a process for me, one of attentive observation and patience but my Orchids are now doing quite well in fact. I've learned that Orchid care is a matter of understanding what your plants "need" and how you can provide that. Maybe you don't water bark enough. Maybe you need to add a little bit of moss or something that retains moisture better. Jumping straight on the bark gravy train may not be the best thing for everyone. But then again, a lot of people on here seem to HATE moss. But how do YOU best provide the needed conditions?

Oh and before I end my rant, something else I think I've learned is that it's easier to come back from dehydration than waterlogging. Be patient, don't panic.

[Optimist]

Never repot when a plant is in bud. When a plant is in bud the roots are not growing so if it is in the wrong medium, it is easy to rot the roots. Orchids are masters of conservation. They only do one thing at a time. If they are stressed, like happens when we repot, they will abort the job and go into a state of hibernation. I'm sorry you lost your flowers, the best thing is to cut the spike, try to give it good culture and get the roots and leaves growing, and wait till next year. These guys need repotting every two to three years. You shouldn't bee jostling it much.

[RosieC]

I wouldn't say it's a hard and fast rule that if they are in bud they are not growing roots. I've just re-potted some in bud and there was a massive amount of root growth on them at the same time (I'm talking root growth all over the existing roots and new roots starting).

I do think it's best to repot when there is good root growth, it's just some happy Phals can be doing everything at once.

You do risk loosing bud/flowers if you repot with them, however I've not actually had that problem so far, but I do on the whole go for repotting when there is root growth.

Personally if the roots are in a poor state I would rather repot anyway and risk loosing flowers, than wait until the flowers are finished and the roots are in an even worse state, when I risk loosing the plant.

[katrina]

Originally Posted by Optimist

They only do one thing at a time.

Internet myth!!

What and when an orchids grows is completely a genetic thing and there is no 'one size fits all' in this area. Some will bloom, then grow roots, then leaves. Others will do 2 at the same time. Other will do all three things at. the. very. same. time.

And, just because the roots aren't putting out new tips and/or growing (in general) doesn't mean they aren't absorbing. If the root is healthy...then it's functioning as it should on a daily basis...which includes absorbing water and nutrient.

Lastly, you can repot a blooming plant. I does not cause root rot. Most of the time the flower drop is more a result of the environmental change than any repot but any dramatic change can cause the flowers/buds to drop. Flowers also drop when the roots are compromised. It's always better to repot if it means not doing so could risk the plant's health. Even at the expense of flowers.

[james mickelso]

I repotted these while they were in flower. They lasted a couple more weeks. The reason they lost flowers was because they were old. Had been in flower awhile. You can repot when in flower. Roots grow when the plant is ready to grow them. Same with leaves. Remember that they are slow growers. Flowering drains a lot out of the plant and that usually has to be replaced before they will flower again. But they will, given good growing conditions, grow leaves and roots at any time. Warmth, good light, good water, proper nutrition, and air will grow these all the time.

[JMNYC]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

It's probably an issue with the pot you're using. It doesn't seem to have a whole lot of drainage holes that can provide some air circulation.

Change a pot that is more conducive to providing more air flow to the roots, and I think that your problems will start to go away.

The bottom leaf yellowing is not a terribly big issue to worry about. They don't hold on to their leaves forever. Old leaves do drop.

I was about to post the same: glazed pots afford no air to the roots, would be better if you choose clay, or plastic with opened slots about the perimeter.

And, how do you water this puppy? Do you drench it and let it drain fully right after?