Phal: Small root system, wrinkled leaves and non opening blooms

[Yelena Kosh]

You're right, I made the wholes myself, which is probably not enough.

I ordered new pot online and am waiting for them to arrive.

Thank you!

[Cym Ladye]

What is the problem with a plain old green plastic fern pot of proper size? These are easily attainable at your local nursery/box store and if you do not like the look, set it into a cache pot of a little larger size in between watering.

It also appears that you have not buried the roots into the media far enough and are not watering enough for the medium bark. You might also consider using a 1/4 strength dose of a balanced slow release fertilizer worked into the top 1" of the media.

[Yelena Kosh]

How should I water it? Bark dries up so quickly.

Run the water for a couple of minutes over the sink or fill it up with water in the cache pot and let it rest for 10 min?

[tarev]

I usually dunk my Phal root zone area only for about ten minutes. Then let drain out all the water and I ran the ceiling fan or open the window for added air circulation as it continues to dry out further. In due time the bark media will be more moisture retentive, but while it is new it really dries out fast.

If there is any water on the leaves I dry it off with paper towel, being careful getting water on the crown, and I do my orchid watering in the morning.

[james mickelso]

I think I see an inner plastic pot inside the decorative pot. If so I'll wager that it is sitting down inside the pot which would block the air flow. Put a couple of pieces of gravel in the bottom of the decorative pot to lift it up, exposing the drainage holes on the bottom of the inner pot. The surface roots look ok. I'd like to see some pics of the surface roots up close. This small plant issued two spikes of flowers. That isexacting a toll on this small plant. The plant is taking the energy stored in the lower leaf to help support those two spikes. It can't do it quickly enough to satisfy the draining of energy so the flowers are taking a long time to finish blooming. The plant is also drawing energy friom the rest of the leaves and roots so that is why the other leaves are drooping. The lower roots were probably in trouble before you purchased it. Was it potted in bark when you got it or did you repot into bark? Being in bark can be a good thing depending on how you water, how humid or dry your growing environment is, what the temperature is in your growing area, and what the light levels are in your growing area. All of these factors will determine what this plant will do in the future.

[lotis146]

I'm pretty sure this is one plant I have: Phal. Minho Princess x Lightning??? I got mine in bloom with some buds in March. It was packed a bit tight in moss when I got it from a greenhouse. I didn't water it for 3.5 weeks, but the blooms still opened and a smaller 2nd spike grew (only grew to produce two buds). At this point I noticed some springtails (harmless but often evidence of deteriorating medium) and then repotted in moss just not as tight. Let it soak then weakly fertilized. This plant takes a long time to dry up in this moss and i only water when it's totally dry, at which pt I soak it for 20 minutes and fertilize. It sits next to an east window. Its flowers have only just started withering in the last couple weeks but it still loses only one flower at a time, so it's taking its time. The small spike, one bud finally opened last week. However I'm not seeing root growth or any new leaves but it's holding on. Oh and it has been on and off warm and cool, often quite warm in my house.

So after all that, what was the condition of the buds/blooms when you got it? Were they small buds? I agree with some others that that pot might not be appropriate and you might be better off putting it in a pot with holes. What did the roots look like when you repotted? You said only the surface (assuming that's what you meant by superficial) roots are okay? How often do you water right now?

What brought me to OB some I don't know 6 months ago now is it...(?)...was an extremely wrinkled, limp-leafed Phal that hadn't spike in a while and a similar mini phal that hadn't bloomed in 5 years. I cut off all the rotted roots and repotted them in an orchid mix I added coconut coir and moss to. I then paid closer attention to just when the medium dries out, not completely but close, and watered them by soaking them for AT LEAST 20 minutes usually more (unintentionally). This has been a process for me, one of attentive observation and patience but my Orchids are now doing quite well in fact. I've learned that Orchid care is a matter of understanding what your plants "need" and how you can provide that. Maybe you don't water bark enough. Maybe you need to add a little bit of moss or something that retains moisture better. Jumping straight on the bark gravy train may not be the best thing for everyone. But then again, a lot of people on here seem to HATE moss. But how do YOU best provide the needed conditions?

Oh and before I end my rant, something else I think I've learned is that it's easier to come back from dehydration than waterlogging. Be patient, don't panic.

[NYCorchidman]

[QUOTE=lotis146;689135]I'm pretty sure this is one plant I have: Phal. Minho Princess x Lightning???


Lightening Champion is what you're looking for.

But you cannot be sure as there are a few hybrids that look awfully alike.

Anyways, back to the original topic, since it is mentioned that the only live roots are the top exposed one, and the look of the leaves and all, I believe what's happening is the plant is suffering from root damage. duh, I know, but when the roots are mostly gone, the plant do not get enough water and start to decline. leaves turn yellow, loose turgidity, and flowers wilting prematurely not to mentioned buds not opening. It takes a lot water to fill up those space in the flower tissues and push open big flowers.

Do you intend to keep the plant? There is a way, although not guaranteed and even with success recovery, it will take some time before you see it flower again.

Sooooo start with a good healthy one.

[lotis146]

[QUOTE=NYCorchidman;689907]

Originally Posted by lotis146

I'm pretty sure this is one plant I have: Phal. Minho Princess x Lightning???


Lightening Champion is what you're looking for.

But you cannot be sure as there are a few hybrids that look awfully alike.

Anyways, back to the original topic, since it is mentioned that the only live roots are the top exposed one, and the look of the leaves and all, I believe what's happening is the plant is suffering from root damage. duh, I know, but when the roots are mostly gone, the plant do not get enough water and start to decline. leaves turn yellow, loose turgidity, and flowers wilting prematurely not to mentioned buds not opening. It takes a lot water to fill up those space in the flower tissues and push open big flowers.

Do you intend to keep the plant? There is a way, although not guaranteed and even with success recovery, it will take some time before you see it flower again.

Sooooo start with a good healthy one.

Huh, mine doesn't have an actual hybrid name, just the cross listed, but it looks so much like this!



I agree it takes time for plants to recover let alone rebloom. Although with some care it will, if you're patient of course. How is it fairing now?

[Optimist]

Never repot when a plant is in bud. When a plant is in bud the roots are not growing so if it is in the wrong medium, it is easy to rot the roots. Orchids are masters of conservation. They only do one thing at a time. If they are stressed, like happens when we repot, they will abort the job and go into a state of hibernation. I'm sorry you lost your flowers, the best thing is to cut the spike, try to give it good culture and get the roots and leaves growing, and wait till next year. These guys need repotting every two to three years. You shouldn't bee jostling it much.

[katrina]

Originally Posted by Optimist

They only do one thing at a time.

Internet myth!!

What and when an orchids grows is completely a genetic thing and there is no 'one size fits all' in this area. Some will bloom, then grow roots, then leaves. Others will do 2 at the same time. Other will do all three things at. the. very. same. time.

And, just because the roots aren't putting out new tips and/or growing (in general) doesn't mean they aren't absorbing. If the root is healthy...then it's functioning as it should on a daily basis...which includes absorbing water and nutrient.

Lastly, you can repot a blooming plant. I does not cause root rot. Most of the time the flower drop is more a result of the environmental change than any repot but any dramatic change can cause the flowers/buds to drop. Flowers also drop when the roots are compromised. It's always better to repot if it means not doing so could risk the plant's health. Even at the expense of flowers.