When SHOULDN'T you fertilize?

[Dante1709]

I recently repotted a paph and I was wondering ; what times should you avoid or lower the fertilizer concentration?
I know during dormancy, or when the plant isn't actively growing, you shouldn't fertilize.

Should you fertilize after receiving the plant, or repotting the plant? Or should the plant be allowed to adjust to the new environment first?

(My paph has new leaves and a root coming, and my fertilize is 19-31-17. It's in bark media and I've had it for 8 months without fertilizing. I plan on fertilizer every other week)

[Fairorchids]

I saw your previous post, and that you 'water' with ice cubes. That doesn't work too well, when you want to fertilize (as you should).

Best way is to water with low dose of fertilizer (1/3 to 1/2 of manufacturer recommendation, and then the next two waterings drench the plant to wash out any leftover salts.

In the fall cut back to fertilizer once every 3-4 weeks, and in winter every 4-6 weeks. In early spring you can ramp it back up.

[Dante1709]

Originally Posted by Fairorchids

I saw your previous post, and that you 'water' with ice cubes. That doesn't work too well, when you want to fertilize (as you should).

Best way is to water with low dose of fertilizer (1/3 to 1/2 of manufacturer recommendation, and then the next two waterings drench the plant to wash out any leftover salts.

In the fall cut back to fertilizer once every 3-4 weeks, and in winter every 4-6 weeks. In early spring you can ramp it back up.

I'm guessing you have the wrong person because I've never used ice cubes to water my orchids. I water my orchids by soaking them for a few minutes.

I already fertilized my two Oncidiums with the manufacturer's recommend dose but I'll keep in kind to dilute the solution.

[Leafmite]

It depends on if the roots were damaged during re-potting whether you need to do anything differently. I just re-potted a bunch of new orchids into LECA and as the roots weren't damaged, I am continuing to fertilize. When I have a difficult re-pot and roots are damaged, I keep the medium and roots dry for a few days to give them a chance to heal and then I hold off on the fertilizer until new roots or root-tips begin growing.

---------- Post added at 06:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18 PM ----------

As for seasonal fertilizing, I don't fertilize most of my plants/orchids at all as my temperatures are cooler and light is dimmer so the plants aren't really growing very much. Some of my Cattleyas rest during the winter and don't even need much water.

[tarev]

I usually allow my plants to adjust for about a week before I start fertilizing, especially if I did a repot. Plant is going to adjust a lot, under a lot of stress from being pulled out from its old container and getting into my home's micro climate.. And pretty much if it is a new plant, I would have bought it in bloom, so I can get away with not giving it fertilizer.

Orchids takes very small doses of fertilizer..so it will not be too detrimental if I do not give it one right away. But for sure it will need some to make its growth better. Too much fertilizer may cause root and leaf burn.

[RosieC]

I just want to clear something up. Fertilising at 1/3 to a 1/2 of the recommended dose is meaningless. Every manufacturer has a different dosing and some are aimed at orchids so already lower. Some are better than others at getting it right in the first place. The only way to recommend how a fertiliser should be used is to know it's strength and calculate the dosing from that.

When I first joined orchid board dosing was recommended at 125ppm N and to do that once a week for 3 weeks, then flush with plain water on the 4th week.

More recently the same people have started to recommend 50ppm N and to do that with every watering.

What does that mean in practice? It means take the N value from the fertiliser. N-P-K percentages must legally always be shown, three numbers like 10-4-10, or 4-6-8, the first number is the N (nitrogen) value. That figure is then used to calculate dosing. I find these two links really useful to do that.

On this one you enter your N value from the label, your target ppm (for example 50ppm for the every watering recommendation) and it tells you the tsp/gallon or ml/L
Nitrogen Management & Calculator | First Rays Orchids

This second link gives a simplified calculation you can do yourself.
Simplified Fertilizer Dosing Guide | First Rays Orchids

I would also say, that using this current 50ppm N recommendation with every watering I don't alter that winter and summer, except for some winter dormant Dens which get no fertiliser from August to Feb. Everything else gets this all winter. I water less in the winter so they get less just from being watered less, but the concentration I use with each watering stays the same. I've never bothered holding off fertiliser or water after repotting either and it's never seemed to cause problems.

[NYCorchidman]

I agree with Rosie.

Yes, do not dilute unless you are using something highly strong, which then shouldn't be used for practical reasons.

During the cooler months when many plants are in "sleeping" mode, you fertilize with less frequency, not less concentration.

So change the frequency not the dilution.

[RJSquirrel]

I would also like to add that however you choose to fertilize or not...

you shouldn't fertilize the plants when the roots are dry. pre water the plant and let the roots get going. roots can burn very easily when its hot. This will kill the roots stunt the plants growths and might even kill it.

On fertilizer dayz and I do use full strength all the time bec I only fertilizer 4 times a month. I hose the plants down real good in the early am then in the late afternoon feed them. This also allows the fertilizer IMO time with the roots and they wont dry up from the heat so fast allowing the plant to use what you just gave it.

Since I have lots of air flow in a greenhouse I don't worry much about damp leaves overnight. If your plants are in the cold house you might want to make sure they are dried off before you put them back up on the shelf or in the window.

I hope everyone helps you some and you find your own way. Its the only way that's ultimately going to work for you, Is the way you find for yourself.

[Leafmite]

I don't fertilize certain species Cattleyas as I have read that these ones should never be given fertilizer during their dormancy (according to Chadwick and Sons). Would you consider this to be incorrect information?

[Ray]

My recommendation on feeding is that you do so regularly, and in VERY dilute concentrations.

I feed at 35 ppm N 2-3x/week. For something like Dyna-Gro "Grow" formula (7-9-5), that's about 3/8 teaspoon per gallon; for MSU RO (13%N), more on the order of 1/4.

At those concentrations, prewatering is a waste of time, and actually prevents the plant from absorbing much of the nutrients in the fertilizer solution.

Plants that have a definite "rest" period should not be fertilized at all until you see signs of resumed growth.