HELP!! Are they a lost cause have i killed them?

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

I personally would've just left the yellowing leaf on the plant until it fell off on its own. It doesn't look pretty to us, but to the plant, it is probably transferring nutrients still stored in the cells of the older leaf to the newer growths.

If you cut it off, it's fine. What's done is done, and one old leaf isn't going to hurt the plant much. It'll still continue on.

While I'm in the boat where I think that Phals are generally not the easiest orchids to grow for a beginner, it's still within the scope of possibility and very much achievable, you just have to learn and be patient with the plant. Phals do grow kinda slow.






If you want a recommendation for an orchid that grows like other houseplants, is relatively inexpensive, very easy to grow, and is pretty common, (albeit this orchid flies under the radar of most people because it doesn't look like what people recognize as an orchid, and it is normally sold alongside a lot of the spring bulbs), that orchid would be - Bletilla striata.

File:Bletilla striata2.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The flowers of Bletilla striata are about 1" in length.

[sarah12beetle]

I think I'm an orchid killer look at the state of the new one...what have i done

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[Nexogen]

Originally Posted by sarah12beetle

I think I'm an orchid killer look at the state of the new one...what have i done

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That plant looks to be a total loss throw away, buy a new one.

[Paul Mc]

Oh my. Yes, I would agree it is probably a goner and you should purchase another. But don't worry, we all lose orchids in the learning process and even some after we have learned the basics. Just keep trying and you will eventually get it down.

[nofickenway]

I am going to go ahead and play "orchid's advocate" here and dissent from popular opinion (which may well be 100% right).

Anyway, I might be wrong, but it looks like a case of crown rot there. Bummer. I rescued six phals in similar to worse shape about three months ago. I have only lost one.

If you don't want to give up, here are a few ideas if you don't mind spending about $15 on supplies that you will use later...

-The first thing I would do is remove the plant form the pot and rinse off all potting medium regardless of how good it looks. I would then snip off the spike at the node closest to the blooms and apply cinnamon mixed with olive oil to the wound. The spike will not drain the resources of the plant but the blooms will.

-get some New Zealand Sphagnum moss - $5 for a small brick that will fill several pots usually. Some would say to "spag n bag", though I would not, given my own poor results. soak the moss in water and place the moss in a tupperware that is wider and more shallow than the pot. Be sure that the leaves are not touching the moss but the roots should; you may need to employ some wire or other gentle supports to achieve this. I have rubber-coated wires I use that are intended for stake supports on garden plants.

- get some physan 20 - usually about $10 for a bottle that will last practically forever. mix the solution and spray on the affected areas. This will likely not cure the rot but should slow it and allow the plant to absorb nutrients from the leaves - all of which might fall off...I would also trim any rotted roots and spray the root system with the physan solution. Repeat spraying every two weeks or so.

- place the phal on top of the moss in the tupperware. find a low light place to set. Make sure the moss stays moist by misting as needed. I do this every two days or so.

-leave her this way for as long as it takes to see new root growth and/or leaf growth. This will likely be a period of months.

-another suggestion to optimize the process would be to add some superthrive or KLN rooting solution from Dyna-Gro to the moss and root system (soak). repeat misting with it every two weeks or so.

I know this is a lot of effort and some additional money, but this method worked for me really well on three of my recused phals. Their root growth has been slow but one of them decided to start growing a new leaf despite having few roots to go on and I have seen the others' leaves perk up and stay nice and green with no new rot.

Again, I know this is a long and tedious process I am endorsing but it worked for me - then again, I am able to tend to my plants daily and don't mind the work.

Just posing an alternative to throwing the plant away.

I will try to get a picture of the phals I had success with and post later.

Another alternative: send me the phal and Ill nurse it myself!

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[silken]

I agree, this new one looks like crown rot. Never leave water sitting in the crown of the leaves.

If you read even some of the post 'The Phal Abuse Ends Here' that was suggested earlier it will cover a lot of things to help you succeed wit a new Phal.

[RandomGemini]

Looks water logged to me. You're overwatering. Go read that thread! It has helpful tips and tricks for avoiding overwatering.

[Orchid Whisperer]

Sarah:

I think you need to READ CAREFULLY the advice you are receiving.

The picture you posted recently indicates a plant that is dead or near-dead. I would toss it. Victim of too much water & water remaining on the leaves.

First: The pots that both of these plants are potted in are attractive - but bad choices for orchids. Use them for something like a peace lily or calla lily that likes wet roots.

Examples of some good orchid pots:

Slotted Clear Orchid Pot - 6"

http://www.browardorchidsupply.com/i...yOrchidPot.jpg

Wholesale Pottery, Orchid Pots, Small Pots, ORCHID SERIES B

Note all the holes in the pots. This gives good drainage. My favorite is the terracotta type. Yes, I see in your photo that you have a plastic pot (maybe like the plastic orchid pot in the first link, above) down in the decorative pot, but if the decorative pot blocks the drainage holes, the pot will not drain properly or allow air to get to the roots.

Second: You are using a good, chunky bark to grow you orchids in. GOOD! Keep doing that. Unless you live in an arid climate, or are highly experienced with growing orchids in Sphagnum moss, moss remains too wet and kills Phalaenopsis.

Third: How are you watering, and how often? Recommendation: Water thoroughly, once a week, in the sink, water flowing through the bark and the pot. Make a little label that says "water me Thursday" and put the label with the pot, in case you are tempted to water on the other days of the week. Make sure no water stays on the leaves or in the crown. If the plant seems too dry after you have been doing this for a month or two, change the label to "Water me Monday and Thursday".

Fourth: Are you mist ing the plant/leaves? If your answer is no - GOOD! If your answer is yes - stop misting.

Fifth: Light - bright shade, this is one plant that may be totally fine in a well-lit office, but if it gets natural light, no direct sun.

Sixth: Skip the extras, such as fertilizer, Superthive, seaweed, hormones, cinnamon, Physan, etc. etc. etc. until you have got the basics mastered (proper drainage and water; proper light). I have been growing orchids since 1982, and I have a few plants that are 29 years old. I have never purchased Physan or Superthrive. I do use fertilizer - but sparingly (use a little once you know the plant is doing well otherwise; maybe 6 months from now).

So, summing up the advice:

1. Good drainage (proper pot, keep using the bark)
2. Water thoroughly, but not too often, leaves and crown dry afterward, no mist ing
3. Proper light-bright shade
4. Avoid the "extras" for now; focus on the basics

Finally, about 8 times in this thread, people have recommended reading http://www.orchidboard.com/community...ends-here.html Have you read this thread yet? If not, please read.