Need help and advice with Paphiopedilum

[Sekhmet121]

Well there you go. You learn something new every day. :-)

I do aim for the center of the pot, but with my other plants I 'poke and go', so I had been doing the same with my orchids.

[RandomGemini]

Poke and go isn't going to tell you much about the moisture content in orchid bark because the bark's purpose is to increase humidity around the roots. You can't tell how much moisture is in the air around the roots, by just sticking the skewer in and pulling it back out. It has to stay in there so that it can integrate with the rest of the pot, otherwise, you'll over water your orchids.

[RandomGemini]

After a while, you won't need the skewer. I used this method for the first few months I was in the hobby, until I got used to the weight of the pot when I picked it up. Now I can tell if my plant needs water just by picking up the pot.

Still, I think the skewer method is a good way to get started and is a good guide for those new to the hobby.

[NYCorchidman]

I was under-watering it and the growth stopped. Once I got advice here and repotted the growth started SLOWLY again. I'll post a pic tomorrow perhaps just for show 'n' tell. The main leaf of the new fan grew out then seemed to stop or slow...?...now there's another leaf coming up the middle, just the tip.


The first leaf will always be the smallest one.
The fact that you are seeing the second leaf emerging is that the first one is done growing.

You really want to make sure you do not underwater your plant especially while they are growing like yours is now.

[Sekhmet121]

Originally Posted by RandomGemini

Poke and go isn't going to tell you much about the moisture content in orchid bark because the bark's purpose is to increase humidity around the roots. You can't tell how much moisture is in the air around the roots, by just sticking the skewer in and pulling it back out. It has to stay in there so that it can integrate with the rest of the pot, otherwise, you'll over water your orchids.

That makes sense. Our average humidity is around 80%, so I actually lean towards under watering, figuring that the aerial roots will pick up much of what the plant needs. Still with my couple of Paphs, I was poking the stick and figuring that the finer media would read more like soil. My plants and I both thank you for the info since I'm still trying to get the hang of the weight difference thing.

One thing that is helping me with my other species is clear pots. I bought them so I could visually monitor the roots, but I've since found that they make it really easy to monitor the moisture level as well since I can see the condensation on the inside of the pot towards the bottom, letting me know that the plant is still good.

[lexusnexus]

Thanks for the answers on skewer use. Now I understand. I was able to successfully use the weight and feel method on my first phal (which died when I had to live with my partner during surgery convalescence and it stayed at home). I was able to figure it out. However, with the sphagnum moss I am a bit unsure as I can't really tell if it is wet or just cool to the touch. Sounds like this is another tool in the kit.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

1. Paphs don't generally grow in "dirt".

2. There are epiphytic Paphs, but they are not common.

3. Most Paphs grow within the crevices of limstone cliffs or outcrops. There may be some organic or inorganic debris trapped in those crevices. Much of the inorganics would be decomposed limestone. Much of the organics tend to be vegetative debris.

4. Some Paphs grow slow. Do not expect them to take off like weeds. Many of them won't.

5. Because many Paphs tend to grow around limestone, it is probably beneficial to add some calcium and magnesium to their water. I say calcium and magnesium because if you look at the limestone, it is dark in color; that's magnesium.

6. If you haven't seen in-situ pics of Paphs, here are some photos of them:

Paph henryanum in the wild | OrchidsForum.com

Paphiopedilum concolor in the wild

7. There are a few Paphs that grow in leaf litter.

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

These photos provide examples of an epiphytic Paph:

Paphiopedilum parishii in situ - Slippertalk Orchid Forum- The best slipper orchid forum for paph, phrag and other lady slipper orchid discussion!

This blog has photos of Paphs on limestone cliffs/hills:

Sarawak Lens: Limestone hill 09.11.21: Paphiopedilum stonei

This one shows a Paph growing in leaf litter:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/spaph/12064340736/

Sometimes new leaves will grow out, and then stop growing, and pick up growing again. It really depends on whether the Paph goes through a "light dormancy" or not.

Some Paphs will grow new leaves straight through without stopping.

Many Paphs will not have green roots because they are growing as lithophytes or semi-terretrials in leaf litter. Most of them have hairy brown roots. If they are firm to the touch and the velamen layer doesn't slough off when they are pulled on a bit, then they are very much alive. When actively growing the root tips on these kinds of Paphs are usually yellowish.

The epiphytic Paphs will have roots that tend to be green or greenish in color.

I am almost certain that I am currently successfully growing 1 species of Paph. I believe I've had this one for about 2 or 3 years already, I don't recall.

I have used a mix that contains some limestone and some small grade bark, and I make sure it drains. I grow mine in a limestone mix because I am fairly certain this particular species grows primarily as a lithophyte where the roots are usually growing in between the rock crevices.

Mine does have a "light dormancy" during the winter, in which I have to be careful not to water too often or risk it rotting out. Prior to this period, new growth slows down dramatically, and comes to a halt. When it gets warmer, it is the plant's cue to kick into gear and start growing again, and it would be my cue to start watering it religiously or else I get stunted younger leaves and risk dehydrating the older leaves, making them drop prematurely.

I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned it yet, but Paphs generally don't like to have their roots disturbed. They can sulk a bit when you repot them.

The species I grow is painfully slow growing, and I had purchased it as a large, established seedling.

It is called Paph vietnamense. It belongs in the section Parvisepalum. This species is closely related to Paph delenatii.