Watering Question - Orchid Board

jocierk · #1 02-18-2014, 05:34 PM

Hi All,
I am a new orchid owner. Sorry in advance for the long post, I just want to give you as much info as I can.

My first plant is a healthy looking Phalaenopsis in a very bad pot. Its doing well and I am waiting for it to drop all of its flowers so I can repot it in a better pot with new media. Recently I rescued a second Phalaenopsis, it was a valentines day leftover (dyed blue) and had been forgotten about in the discount flower section. Its flowers were droopy and the stems looked dry and dead at the end. I cut the dead stem (above the closest node), pulled off the dying flowers and even though it had a few flowers left I immediately repotted it to try and save the roots. I did all of this three days ago and it hasn't dropped the remaining two flowers, and it seems to have perked up. My question is about watering it. When I put it in the new media I let it sit under running tepid water for about 5 min (just the roots not the stem, flowers or leaves). Since then the new media (fir bark, charcoal, and sponge rock) seems to be totally dry again. Did the roots just suck it all up because it had been totally neglected? Is this how it normally feels with new bark in the pot? Does the medium hold more water after it is "broken in"? The other orchid is still in its original plastic cup style pot and broken down medium and it stays moist feeling for a week or so before it gets dry enough that I feel like I need to water it again. The rescue orchid is in an actual orchid pot with holes and such in the sides for ventilation. I know over watering is a big no-no, it just feels so dry already and if it needs more water to recover I don't want to hinder it. Thanks so much for reading my long post and for any advice you guys have!

Bill U. · #2 02-18-2014, 11:29 PM

Jocierk,

First off, Welcome to OB! There are tons of great tidbits of information tucked away here within all of the different forums and then of course by asking questions such as this to our other members who may have a little more expertise!

Now on to your watering question:
I am sure that the rescue has perked up in your care because you are actually giving it some method of care- many times "big box" stores will neglect them to a point of serious decline in health.

My first question to you- did you soak the new bark before using it to repot? Many have found that soaking fresh bark in warm to cool water overnight or for at least a few hours can help it retain moisture better initially. If you did not, that is okay, but then you need to keep in mind that new bark will not hold water/moisture as easily as older bark because of the properties that the sap of the bark is a minor water-repellent. Over time, the bark will lose this sap and start to hold more and more moisture (which is why broken down bark appears to be sopping wet and somewhat smelly because it is decomposing).

Second question- what are the rest of your conditions like? Temperature? Humidity?

I am sure that to some degree, the roots of the phal did take up a fair amount of moisture, but probably not to the extent that you are describing.

Watering is a common question for our orchids (new and experienced members alike). For many orchids, members like to grow them in clear plastic pots because then they are able to see the root activity and the status of the moisture levels within the pot to some extent (leftover plastic bottles/containers are great to re-purpose into orchid pots- I do it all the time for mine. My largest phal is growing in an old tupperware container lol). But one of the most sure-fire ways to determine moisture is to use the skewer method. The skewer method is extremely easy and great for those questionable conditions. All you need is a bamboo skewer and carefully stick it into the pot, trying to be close to the crown, but not impaling any roots. As you get acclimated to your new plant, check the skewer everyday to see how moist it is. If it is still noticeably moist, then hold off another day or two until it is just barely moist or dry. After a few weeks, you will start to get the hang of the watering regime for that plant and won't have to rely on the skewer as much. Some members have used this skewer method in conjunction to the "weight" method (does it feel heavy like it was immediately watered, or light= dry) to be the best kind of gauge.

If you are overly worried about it drying too fast, you can water and then later in the day give it a misting (try to avoid the crown) over the bark media to give it a little more consistent moisture until the next watering.

Let us know if you have more questions!

WhiteRabbit · #3 02-19-2014, 04:01 PM

I am a devout user of skewers to determine when to water.

jocierk · #4 02-19-2014, 05:19 PM

I did not soak my bark before repotting the new orchid. I will do this for sure next time.

Last night after reading your reply I gave it a good misting to hold it over until this weekend. Do you recommend watering by soaking the pot in a tub of water? Currently I have been letting them sit under running water for 3-5 min at a time about every week to 10 days.

The orchids all sit in front of a large south facing window in my kitchen. The window has a huge tree outside of it that shades the light so it is not too direct. The temp is about 70 through the day, 5 degrees lower or so at night. The vent is directly above the orchid table so they have some moving air (In the summer I plan on closing it so they don't get too cold). The house is pretty dry, we have a big static electricity problem. Should I get the orchids a humidifier?

I actually have a bamboo stick in that orchid and before this mornings misting it came out totally dry. Should I also fertilize it when I water it this weekend?

Thank you guys so much for your help, I really appreciate it!

Bud · #5 02-19-2014, 06:43 PM

When I was a newbie, I was given grief about Phalaenopsis watering regimen from an OP of another forum and even asked the aid of the owner to make me stand down LOL....
since we don't know your grow zone area, all I can advice as of now is : water it as needed....
feed it fertilizer weekly weakly and in winter make it every other week....summer will not have frost so it will not be too cold for the plant so don't close the vents....
Humidifiers are a good investment if you have a dry environment. Choose one with an oscillating fan that is attached with it ....preferably the two gallon so you only fill it up once a day....

Bill U. · #6 02-19-2014, 11:52 PM

The misting is more of a supplement to humidity- normally misting will not "hold over" until a later watering date unless it is that night. I agree with Bud, water when your conditions tell you to do so.The plunge-method is highly debated here in OB- there are those that are in favor, and those that are against, and the sides are normally very polar with little overlap.

The "pro" argument is that you are able to water the orchids while you are doing something else, you save water, and can ensure that just about every part of the bark becomes saturated with water to hold it better.

The "con" argument is that this is a very easy way to spread fungus, disease, and all sorts of other nasties that you really don't want to spread around. It is safer to water each one individually to minimize any potential spreading of bad stuff.

Now, all of that being said, if you have plants that are in good condition or have been tested for various viral infections, then you may be able to do this method. If you have any plants that are questionable, even a little bit, water it separately. I personally have a rather small collection (10 at the moment) that have all been tested and so I will plunge-water if I am short on time or if I am trying to apply a dose of seaweed supplement to help stimulate root production. But for the majority of my waterings, I will use the "flush" method.

In the end, the decision is up to you and how attached you may be to your orchids. Some members here have only named hybrids or species that are quite valuable and will not take the chance of contaminating it, and then there are other members who just have them from Home Depot or something and are of the opinion- "it's easier for me, and if it happens to die, I will just replace it.."

*in regards to your humidity- if you are finding that your house if having a problem with static electricity then the humidity in your house and most likely your growing area will be too low for optimal growth. You can get a humidifier for your orchids (how fancy and how much you want to $ is up to you) and they will appreciate the extra humidity in addition to you feeling more comfortable because the shock factor will not be as high. Another trick that can be used in conjunction with a humidifier and daily misting is to have the orchids sit on a tray of rocks (river rocks seem to work the best) and have water sitting in the tray. However, DO NOT have the water line up to the point where the pot is sitting in water! That is just asking for rot!! You may be interested in purchasing a hygrometer of sorts to monitor your humidity in your growing area. I personally use Amazon.com - AcuRite 613 Indoor Humidity Monitor - Weather Stations (of course just the product- you can find it other places than Amazon)

If you have more questions, please let us know and check out the "Phal abuse ends here" sticky at the top of the beginner's forum (http://www.orchidboard.com/community...ends-here.html) or check out a phalaenopsis culture guide that I have compiled from my experience and various other guides at Phalaenopsis | Bill's Chicago Garden Growing Guide

Optimist · #7 02-20-2014, 11:19 AM

I live in a desert area that has been in a drought for several years. I do not just allow water to go into the drain for five minutes. I guess it all depends on your circumstances and conditions. (I use any spill water to water other plants as well).

So far for me, since I started this, a combination of water trays, water bowls sitting around the room, a humidifier, a fish tank for those that need high humidity, and a few small humidifiers that empty at a slow rate have been used. I also find that having big thirsty terrestrial plants in the area with large pots of dirt help raise humidity because the water evaporates slowly. So a few larger house plants that are not orchids can also help. Those are quite available at most box stores or garden centers.

jocierk · #8 02-26-2014, 06:11 PM

Update: So I have repotted and given new media (soaked for about 6 hours prior to using) to all orchids. The bark is still drying out completely in a matter of a few days. I am using bamboo sticks to test the middle of the pots, and most of the pots have rather large holes that I can actually stick a finger in so I am sure its all dry. I have also bought the orchids a humidifier which I run on full blast 24hours a day and while my prayer plant loves it, its doesn't seem to make much difference for the orchids. Since my last post the leaves on the two phals I have had longest (about a month) have gotten quite droopy. I read on here that that will happen with "big box" orchids, I am just still worried that they are not getting enough moisture, but I also don't want to rot the roots. The room is very large and open so I don't know if I can possibly even get a humidifier that will rise the moisture level anymore than the one I have now. In addition to the orchids I have four largish pots of house plants in the same area (sitting under the orchids), which I have heard can help raise the humidity as well. Am I just being really paranoid here?

Despite the fact that they are in a south window I am also worried they are not getting enough light. The leaves on all my phals seem quite dark. They sit almost directly under one of the fixtures in my kitchen so I replaced all the bulbs in it with full spectrum CF's. Will that help them if they arnt getting enough natural light? How quickly do the leaves change color in response to having not enough light/having too much?

---------- Post added at 04:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:23 PM ----------

I tried to post a link to some photos I uploaded to photo bucket but it won't let me post them. Are those against the rules? How to people post pics? I just wanted to show your my setup to help answer my questions.

awakedude985 · #9 02-27-2014, 01:09 PM

Jocierk you need to have 5 posts before you can upload images to posts. See this link http://www.orchidboard.com/community...ng-photos.html for tips on posting photos after you have reached 5 posts.

jocierk · #10 02-27-2014, 03:24 PM

OK thanks. I think this reply makes 4 so once I hit 5 I will start a thread with some pics in it.