Catasetum Advice - Post Dormant Period

[isurus79]

Many successful growers of this group cut the roots off each year, but many don't. I never liked cutting the old roots off because they are still viable next growing season and stabilizing a plant with a medium to large root system is much easier than one without a robust root system. Both techniques really are a matter of personal preference and both methods produce good results.

Can you post pics of the leaves, with emphasis on the area where this years leaves join the bulb? While Bud is correct about your plant not being dormant while it has leaves, there are tell tale signs that show your plant is ready for dormancy. I had to downsize my Catasetinae collection to just one plant (Clow. Rebecca Tyson Northen), but since I knew what to look for, I stopped watering my plant this year and it had all its leaves. Within a few days, all the leaves turned yellow and after a few more days, they all dropped. My timing for cutting off the water was perfect.

As your plant matures through the growing season, you'll notice that there are small white lines on the leaves, especially where the leaf joins the bulb. These lines fade in their brightness and intensity as the plant gets closer to its desired dormancy. The white fades and often turns yellowish, which is the time that the plant wants to go dormant. At this stage, it is safe to stop watering. Do this any earlier and your bulbs will shrivel; any later and you risk rot. Its for this reason that I ask for pics of the leaves on your plant.

[kikitastrophe]

My DH got me a FDK after dark for my birthday (<3) and I am wondering about the care too. I have never had a Catasetum before.

So let me know if this plan is ok (summarized from what I have read above/elsewhere):

1. Currently it is blooming. (A few buds blasted during shipping, plenty are on the way to opening) Should I water at 1/2 what I would normally (every 2 weeks or 1/2 as water every week?) or is it already in the resting period and I should commence NOT-watering?

2. When it is done blooming, I should un-pot it, separate the 4 bulbs into 2 sets of 2... (So I can share with my aunt next year!)

3. I will the bulbs upright (no medium) in clay pots and avoid watering until 4-5" of growth appears in the spring.

Can I mist the resting bulbs? Should the pots be on the humidity tray? The humidity is low in my living room (30% by the hygrometer) I normally mist the entire space about 1-2x/day.

Thanks!

[Bud]

1. if currently it is in bloom=continue the watering regimen, but only once a week.

2. yes

3. yes

*do not mist it(this is not a Dendrobium in rest) =no water at all and no humidity tray(be very firm=no water at all)....the cane is fat and full of energy to sustain the new growth....the danger of wetting the cane= it might harbor fungi or it might rot

during the growth period it allows the canes to grow fat to sustain itself for the dormant rest period....this is enough already so do not exaggerate or fuss over it.

[Corsetière]

Originally Posted by isurus79

Can you post pics of the leaves, with emphasis on the area where this years leaves join the bulb?

Sure -

[Bud]

looking at the white lines on the leaf base edges you might get a new spike out of this if you continue the culture....during the rest period, clean the canes and cut the roots in half and you can separate this into four pots....the two smallest ones can be in one pot and the rest can be individually potted so you can have four flowering plants next year.

* wait until you get 5 inches of new growth=watering a tiny 2 inches growth can trap water in the crevices and rot the new growth

[Corsetière]

Originally Posted by Bud

the two smallest ones can be in one pot and the rest can be individually potted so you can have four flowering plants next year.

Ooooooooooh! What a dream - flowers everywhere!

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by Corsetière

Sure -

Ya, I'd say you can rest this one pretty safely.