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05-18-2013, 02:18 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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First mount attempt
It's a Bellina. I used a scrap piece of wood and placed moss on the surface, positioned the plant and wrapped moss about the roots, of which there are few, and then wrapped fishing line about it so it was snug but not tight.
Does this look ok?
It is growing a new leaf and has sent out one or two new roots but that's it. It's not the happiest plant. Now that I'm able to grow in a warm and humid grow area I figure I'd give this thing a try. I plan on giving it a good watering with a growth stimulant (mega thrive like) to get it to send out new roots.
Any tips?
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05-18-2013, 02:43 PM
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Less moss on top of the roots. The moss underneath is fine, but on top, there should be less. Lets the roots breathe.
You should be able to see the roots.
__________________
Philip
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05-18-2013, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)
Less moss on top of the roots. The moss underneath is fine, but on top, there should be less. Lets the roots breathe.
You should be able to see the roots.
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Ok good to know. Thx!
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05-18-2013, 03:43 PM
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Looks good Ryan. If you're going to use the pegboard for hanging the mounts( great idea!) you might want to give it a coat of poly to repel moisture. Even if you move the mounted plants for watering the spag will be moist and the masonite will deteriorate quickly.
Bill
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05-18-2013, 04:24 PM
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Good job. I do agree with more sphagnum between the roots and the mount rather than over the roots. Roots on top of the moss are in contact with both air and moisture. Good luck.
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05-18-2013, 04:52 PM
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I never put moss under Phal roots but always put it on top of the roots. I want moisture available to the roots for several hours. When exposed to air immediately they dry out too fast to keep them happy and I'm too lazy to water more than once a day. Phal bellina wants constant moisture and does not want to dry out for very long. The sphag permits air to the roots just like sphag in a plastic pot permits air to the roots.
Here is Phal. mannii (flava) 'Highjack' AM/AOS - as you can tell this plant was watered before the picture was taken.
Phal mannii (flava form) 'Highjack' AM-AOS JCL_1415 by kentucky4, on Flickr
The roots in contact with the moss, which used to be sphag, are still wet while the roots not touching the moss are starting to dry out. By the next day the mount is completely dry. Retaining moisture on Phals for several hours will keep them happier.
Pilot you bellina is doing what bellina's do this time of the year. You should be getting a spike very soon.
Brooke
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05-18-2013, 10:37 PM
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It's interesting how many different approaches there are when growing orchids. Pilot, you mounted it just fine. Whether there is moss on the top of the roots or between them or under them doesn't mean a thing. You could hang it without anything as long as it's water and air requirements are met. I have mounted orchids both ways and it didn't seem to make much difference. Just learn from this try and make adjustments as you learn. Here is a board I came up with that seems to work very well. I call it a rescue board because I use it as a last resort for stubborn catts, laelias, and phals that won't root. This is a long one which soon will have numerous different catts, Lc's, and sophros mounted on it. I'm going to try and have something blooming on it all spring, summer, and fall next year. But all it is is a fir 1x3 with holes drilled in it. The orchids grow their roots into the holes pretty quickly where they wouldn't grow roots at all on a plain board. Don't know why but have theories.
Last edited by james mickelso; 04-06-2014 at 12:30 AM..
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05-19-2013, 02:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james mickelso
It's interesting how many different approaches there are when growing orchids. Pilot, you mounted it just fine. Whether there is moss on the top of the roots or between them or under them doesn't mean a thing. You could hang it without anything as long as it's water and air requirements are met. I have mounted orchids both ways and it didn't seem to make much difference. Just learn from this try and make adjustments as you learn. Here is a board I came up with that seems to work very well. I call it a rescue board because I use it as a last resort for stubborn catts, laelias, and phals that won't root. This is a long one which soon will have numerous different catts, Lc's, and sophros mounted on it. I'm going to try and have something blooming on it all spring, summer, and fall next year. But all it is is a fir 1x3 with holes drilled in it. The orchids grow their roots into the holes pretty quickly where they wouldn't grow roots at all on a plain board. Don't know why but have theories.
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James that is so cool! I will have to try something like that with this bell.... Funny, I have another bell on its way, too... I torture myself with these plants!
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05-19-2013, 03:02 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james mickelso
It's interesting how many different approaches there are when growing orchids. Pilot, you mounted it just fine. Whether there is moss on the top of the roots or between them or under them doesn't mean a thing. You could hang it without anything as long as it's water and air requirements are met. I have mounted orchids both ways and it didn't seem to make much difference. Just learn from this try and make adjustments as you learn. Here is a board I came up with that seems to work very well. I call it a rescue board because I use it as a last resort for stubborn catts, laelias, and phals that won't root. This is a long one which soon will have numerous different catts, Lc's, and sophros mounted on it. I'm going to try and have something blooming on it all spring, summer, and fall next year. But all it is is a fir 1x3 with holes drilled in it. The orchids grow their roots into the holes pretty quickly where they wouldn't grow roots at all on a plain board. Don't know why but have theories.
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James I followed your lead and drilled. A bunch of holes in my mount, too. Thanks for the tip and ill keep you posted...what a great idea!
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05-19-2013, 06:39 PM
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Great! I think that the holes hold water for awhile and soak the wood and the roots go after the water. I put moss on top of the roots or where I hope to get roots and wire that down with phone wire or florists wire. I put on just enough moss to keep the plant wet but not a bunch of it and not too tight. Hope this helps. Good luck. Yes please keep me posted and if it works for you it will be something we can share with newbes.
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