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02-16-2013, 04:03 PM
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Jr. Member
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
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Drooping Phalaenopsis Leaves
Hi,
I recently bought my first orchid back in late December. After a few weeks, the bottom-most leaf quickly yellowed, shriveled up and died in a matter of days. I didn't think much of it since it happened so quickly. Then in late January, another bottom leaf began to droop. After a while it too yellowed and shriveled and is now hanging on the side of the pot. Now the two leaves directly above it are starting to droop and nothing I do seems to be fixing it. They flowers are fine and the roots seem okay. They are a nice green color when wet, but they do grey when dried. I have my phal placed in direct indirect sunlight next to a window and away from drafts. I water it weekly by running it under water with a few drops of Bonide fertilizer for about a minute, letting excess water drop out, and then letting it dry completely before watering again. What could I be doing wrong? Could it be the humidity? I am in a cold area but my apartment remains at about 70 degrees.
Thanks,
Alex
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02-16-2013, 04:20 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,196
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Hmmmm....strange...From your description, the condition you are giving to your phal is perfectly fine.
At first I thought dehydration as the mix looks VERY dry, but since you water it once a week, that's probably not the case.
I would add that complete drying is not necessary for phals. but in most case, once a week is sufficient I would think.
Old leaves will yellow and drop over time, but usually one leaf at a time. When you overwater any plant, leaves may turn yellow and drop, but this is not the case for your plant.
Draft does not cause this kind of leaf drop, rather flowers/buds blast first if anything.
Oh, and some phals will drop their leaves as they adjust to drier home environment to conserve (balance out available water it gets and water it loses) water.
Your phals may just like to keep three leaves in your setting.
Mine usually keep 4-7 at a time. As new leaves grow and the number of leaves increase, they always drop one or two most bottom leaves and maintain the same number of leaves all the time.
It is a quick change in your case though. I would keep a close eye on it and observe what it does.
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02-16-2013, 06:04 PM
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Member
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 51
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I am only new, but can you see through the pot to check the root status inside the pot?
This happened to me, so I pulled the whole plant out, and unfortunately my roots are dead and rotten
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02-17-2013, 09:59 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Zone: 5a
Location: MA, USA and Atenas Costa Rica
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I've had phals that do that but remain healthy nonetheless. It likely will grow new leaves when it stops flowering.
I'm concerned about 2 things- the pot it's in doesn't seem to have enough ventilation holes- you could get a special orchid pot or just poke holes in the sides of the one you have.
I don't know what bonide fertilizer is. Orchids need very weak, dilute fertilizer. The nitrogen level (the N on the label) should be about 100ppm. There are a number of good orchid fertilizers out there, like Jacks, or MSU.
---------- Post added at 08:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 AM ----------
EGAD!!!
I googled Bonide and it is primarily a lawn care products company, and the only fertilizer they seem to carry comes with a "weed controller". That would be very bad for your orchid.
Bonide
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02-17-2013, 08:43 PM
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Better check the fertilizer ASAP as Connie's post indicates. I agree, the pot could use some holes on the sides to guarantee fast drying. Also as was mentioned, Phals shouldn't get real dry between watering but once a week is likely not too far off. Also the roots will turn grey when dry and they should do that just before watering again.
I wonder if your plant is getting a bit too much light and therefore causing leaves to wilt a bit. You said "direct indirect sunlight next to a window". Phals are fairly low light plants and depending which way your window faces it could be too much. They should never have direct light right close to a south window for example. If the leaves are getting warm at all at the brightest time of day, it is too much.
If this is what you are using it should be OK: Amazon.com: Bonide Houseplant Liquid Food 10-10-10 Fertilizers, 8-Ounce: Patio, Lawn & Garden But use 1/4 to 1/2 the recommended strength on orchids. They like very weak fertilizer on a regular basis. (Weakly weekly)
Last edited by silken; 02-17-2013 at 08:46 PM..
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02-17-2013, 11:46 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Oceanside, Ca
Age: 75
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Your phal just flowered and as most of the phals' energy is stored in the leaves because they have no pbulb, the flower was grown at the expense of the bottom two leaves. The media looks good and the roots seem to be ok. This phal was stressed at one time by the looks of the shriveled root showing in the pic. This could have been the cause of the leaves dropping but I would bet that the flowering caused the leaf drop. I myself like a coarse media so I can water more often which means more food for the plant. The leaves color looks about right too so keep it where it is and if it gets a deeper green or much lighter green/yellow that would be time to get it more or less light. All in all I would say you are doing well. Good luck.
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02-18-2013, 12:50 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2013
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Thank you everyone for your useful input! My orchid is on an east facing window so it doesnt get any bright light. I poked a few holes in the pot and hopefully that will help. I can't really see the inside of the pot...It seems like it may have a mixture of healthy and unhealthy roots. Someone had advised me to repot my plant so that I can get rid of any sick/dead roots, but I'm a bit nervous about it since I've heard that it can be a bit of a risky process. Any tips?
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02-18-2013, 07:15 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Cyprus
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I think you should water it more often, since the mix is quite coarse. Watch for condensation inside the pot as an indicator for watering.
Phal repotting is an easy process that can be done throughout the year. Your mix dosn't seem old so maybe you could reuse it. Sterilize your tools and just cut any dried roots or those that feel hollow and empty when you squeeze them (gently).
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02-18-2013, 12:07 PM
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I have to agree with tsun1108. You can see the top roots, but what is in the bottom. I would take it out and check the roots. Cut off old and repot in bark. I assure you it will not hurt the plant. I have done this with new ones that are in bloom even, with not ill effects.
---------- Post added at 11:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 AM ----------
I have to agree with tsun1108. You can see the top roots, but what is in the bottom. I would take it out and check the roots. Cut off old and repot in bark. I assure you it will not hurt the plant. I have done this with new ones that are in bloom even, with no ill effects.
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02-18-2013, 02:10 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 10
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check water
I noticed you wrote that you are putting it under a faucet. I avoid city or well water since it could have too many/bad minerals, salt, or chlorine. All these can kill your plants. Consider buying distilled or filtered water.
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