Please help me save my Phal. - Orchid Board

supersheep · #1 01-19-2013, 01:16 PM

Hi guys

I posted about this phal last week, here. But it's health has really deterioated since then.

I repotted it in loose bark chippings, which had been soaked in water over night and then microwaved for about 3 minutes. I dusted it with cinnamon too and have been misting it with water on the bark and the leaves.

But when I checked it today, I saw it was going all mouldy at the base of the stem and where the old roots had been cut.

The two remaining roots are also looking very mushy now too.

I'm not sure what to do to save it, as I don't want to risk repotting in case the mould comes back. It's currently very cold here at the moment (around zero outside), though I'm keeping it in the warmest room in the house.

Please help - it has lovely yellow flowers and I do want to try and save it.

Oscarman · #2 01-19-2013, 04:04 PM

Have you got a pic or two tohelp us see whats going on? A little culture review..........

Water
How often you water will depend on the potting medium. Bark retains less water than moss. If your phal is potted in bark watering once a week is generally sufficient. If your plant is potted in moss, water when the top feels dry. The amount of light and heat your plant receives will also affect how soon your phal needs watering. Summer months will need more frequent watering, winter will need less. After a few watering, you will be able to tell by the weight of the pot whether or not it is time to water again. If in doubt, wait a day.

It is best to water in the morning. Place the plant in the sink and use tepid water. Do not use salt-softened or distilled water. Let the water run through the plant for a minute or so. Be sure to let the plant drain completely.
If any water remains in the crown (where the leaves join in the center) use a paper towel to blot the water to avoid crown rot.

Light
Phalaenopsis are ‘low’ light orchids. They grow beautifully in an east window and can be grown in a south or west window if protected by a sheer curtain. A phal’s leaves should be olive green. If they are darker it means the plant is not getting enough light; red tinged leaves mean the plant is getting too much light. Once the plant is in bloom you can place it anywhere in your home out of direct sunlight. If your plant does not re-bloom, increase the amount of light that it receives.
Continue watering and fertilizing while waiting for the blooming cycle to begin!

Temperature
Phals are easy to grow because they enjoy the same temperatures we do – above 60º F at night and a range of 70º F to 80º F or higher during the day. 95º F is the maximum temperature recommendation. Keep in mind that temperatures close to the window on a windowsill will be colder or hotter than your general house temperature. Fluctuating temperatures can cause bud drop on plants with buds ready to open.

Fertilizer
Any balanced orchid fertilizer (look at the numbers on the container, 20-20-20, etc.) can be used to fertilize your orchid. Feeding weakly (half strength) weekly works well. Once a month, use clear water to flush any accumulated salts from the potting mix.

Humidity
Use a shallow tray of pebbles filled with water to increase humidity around your plants. Be sure the pot does not sit in water as this will rot the roots.

supersheep · #3 01-19-2013, 07:10 PM

Thanks, but I'm not sure what to do with this particular orchid.

I've taken it out of the potting medium now, as I was so afraid of all that mould on the bottom of the stem.

I did think the potting medium had completely dried out, so I did mist it, about twice a day. With the leaves drooping, I was very worried it wasn't getting enough water.

Here's a picture I posted in the other thread. It's not changed much, though the longest root in that picture is now all mushy. Oh and most of the cinnamon has been washed off now.

jai_star · #4 01-19-2013, 07:15 PM

The leaves of your Phal doesn't look too bad however you have greater leaf area to roots meaning that it will be a struggle for this Phal to support itself I would suggest not planted it in any media and do the " bag in jar " technique and use a root stimulant at each watering it will slowly recover.

james mickelso · #5 01-19-2013, 10:52 PM

If you want this to survive, start misting the undersides of the leaves as often as you can. That is the only way your phal will get any moisture now. There are not enough roots to get enough moisture to the leaves. The leaves are where phals store their energy and right now they are desicating without water. Potting them will only exacerbate the problem. Dusting the roots with cinnamon was a bad idea. The best thing for the plant right now is to wash off the cinnamon, put the phal into a glass so the roots hang down inside the glass, fill the glass with a half to an inch of water to help with humidity, and spray or mist the undersides of the leaves as often as you can. With the temps down as low as you say there probably isn't much humidity sio sparaying or misting the leaves say every 30 mins or every hour can only help at this point. The drying in between will help curb the fungal or bacterial growth. It also needs some decent light like say a west window or south window. This rerscue will take a couple months before any more roots start to grow. It may try to throw a flower spike. Once any growth starts, if it is a flower spike cut it off and dust the wound with cinnamon powder. Good luck.

supersheep · #6 01-20-2013, 10:09 AM

Thanks for the help. I can certainly mist the leaves as often as I can.

But I noticed the stem at the bottom, where it meets the old, cut off roots, was mouldy again this morning. Just a little, but as I washed it off last night with diluted disenfectant, it's come back very quickly. Is there anything more I can do to prevent the mould coming back? Obviously leaving it in a glass with water at the bottom is a nice environment for the mould...

Oh and I read on here about using kelp to stimulate root growth. I have some pure, freeze dried kelp powder, so was wondering about making that into a dilute solution and soaking the stem in it for about half an hour. Would you recommend this at this stage, or maybe let it recover a bit more first?

Thanks so much for the help - I am determined to do all I can to save it.