Root, flowering, and fert. Qs

[lkg1323]

Hey all!
So I'm the usual suspect - owned a couple big box store Phals, killed them, then left orchids alone for a couple years. I'm still in love with them though, and by the courage that this board/it's wealth of info has given me - I do the only reasonable thing.. buy three species online.
I ordered a Phal (Nobby's Amy), a Bc Binosa ("kirk"), and a very young laelia purpurata werkhauseri.

The Binosa, to my surprise, had buds. I was insanely pleased/excited with this - until I inspected the plant further. There were many roots that needed to be removed, and serious mold growth on the media. There was also white spotting on the plant, with what appeared to be little clusters of white "balls". I'm hoping this is some kind of mildewing and not an infestation of sorts? Unfortunately, it was too small to get a good picture on, but it has all since been removed to the best of my ability with a swab/alcohol. What kind of problem might this be?
The real question to me is, - will the hacking of roots ruin it's flowering? Two of three beautiful flowers have been opened for 1.5-2 days, but are still not opened completely. I'm probably just worrying too much, but because I've never had an orchid bloom from bud in my care, I'm not sure how long it takes a flower to "set".

I'm also curious about some of the roots attached in image. Black, mushy roots obviously have to go - but I've also encountered some roots that aren't white, aren't black, aren't mushy, but aren't really solid either. They have some give to them, so I wasn't sure what to do with these... any help would be greatly appreciated.

My last question is about orchid ferts. I've read a lot of conversation about the ratios (and weakness) for ferts. However, as new to this as I am, I was wondering if anyone could suggest the brand of ferts they are using?

Thanks so much in advance for any and all responses - just the partially opened Binosa has made my heart flutter - I wouldn't have made the jump without seeing this board!!

[tucker85]

Welcome to Orchid Board! Repotting the Bc Binosa probably will affect the blooming. Cattleya types are more sensitive to repotting than phals are. The roots you photographed don't look too bad. I would just trim the roots that are obviously dead and leave the others. With phals repot into the smallest pot that will comfortably accommodate the roots. The others should go into small pots also but with room for a couple new pseudobulbs to grow. As far as fertilizers, any fertilizer is better than none. Fertilizers that get nitrogen from nitrate are best. Read the label, if most of the nitrogen comes from urea it's not the best one to use. Orchids don't utilize urea very well, although doesn't hurt them. Orchid Focus Grow Formula gets 100% of the nitrogen from nitrate, Norman's Optimal Orchid Nutrients gets most of it's nitrogen from nitrate. But if you already have a fertilizer that gets some of it's nitrogen from nitrate, go ahead and use that. There's no use spending money that you don't have to. As far as the white substance on the leaves, wipe it off with soap and water on a paper towel and just hope it isn't anything bad. Good luck.

[WhiteRabbit]

Glad you found us!
Ah the siren song of orchids!

I don't do too well with Phals, and so only have a couple and will let others help with your questions.

Myself, I haven't really had issues arise from repotting most orchids whenever, tho if they aren't new, I do try to do it when there is new growth. New ones, I repot after blooming, if they were in bloom when I got them - or if I am worried about the roots, condition of the plant, I will repot right away.
Repotting the Catt while in bloom is likely to cause the blooms to wither. I agree with Tucker that the roots on yours don't look bad.

I do try to avoid urea based nitrogen fertilizers - mostly because the urea based nitrogen isn't usable at less than 70 degrees, and mine are all usually less than 70 during winter most of the time. I have used - and been happy with - MSU formula, Gubler's, Grow More Orchid (urea free 20-10-10 - blue) - at a rate of 1/2 tsp per gallon water.

Good luck!

[lkg1323]

Thanks to you both!

I should have mentioned that the root pic. is after I cut off all the blatantly rottens I was just a little fuzzy on the "in-betweens".

Bummer on the catt. news. I hope I get to see a little bit of them at least! I think there was too too too many rotten roots to leave it be until the blooms were done.