Cymbidiums not producing spikes!

[Phalchid]

I bought two cymbidiums from Sam's Club 4 -5 years ago. After the blooms fell off, I repotted them. The plants seem to be doing well, but I have had no blooms. I read somewhere that you need to bury the bottom half of the pot in dirt. Never wanted to do that. I leave them in the shade of a tree in the spring, and bring them in before the first frost advisory in the fall. The last two winters I put them in the basement, where they get natural light, and also because it's cooler there. I hoped this would help. Last week I repotted them, and now they stay indoors. The temp inside is always around 73-75F. At this point, I am so frustrated, at the end of my tether! And, I have always been the patient kind. Can anybody throw some light as to what I may be doing wrong? recoils really use some advise from members who have had no problem getting their cymbidiums to bloom.
Thanks!

[Bud]

what is your grow zone? those are grown in the cooler temps and give it bright light.....when repotting it must be in a darker/cooler place with no water for two weeks to let the new roots develop....then water the first time with a dilute solution of Physan 20, which is a bactericide and fungicide, to help reduce the likelihood of fungal or bacterial disease in the newly repotted plant. Watering with a dilute solution of Subdue may also help control disease after repotting. Use of an anti-transpirant as a spray or drench after dividing and repotting may help reduce the moisture stress on a plant, but I do not find it necessary under my conditions=that is why I am asking about your grow zone....then put it outdoors under a tree without letting it feel any heat wave above 100F ....this plant can go below 40F for a couple of weeks to encourage spike; a couple of days below 20F it might turn into mush....

[silken]

It depends which kind of Cym you have. I have two standard ones-the larger ones. They thrive on 'neglect' In the spring when there is no risk of frost I set them out doors in quite a high light area facing south. They get some filtered light but a lot of fairly direct light too. They mostly get the rain, but I try to water them with a dose of plant food now and then too. I think they are reasonably heavy feeders. When there is a risk of frost in the fall they come in and bloom usually some time in the winter. When I brought them in last fall they both already had bloom spikes an inch out of the media. Mine spend the winter in a cool greenhouse where light isn't real bright because snow covers the roof. I think they need a lot of light in summer tho and then the chill to bring on the blooms.

[Phalchid]

I live in zone 5a, Chicago area. The ID on one says
Betty Ford+Pres. Van Buren
'Sunset' + Vacaru 'Invincible Limon'
This cymbidium had large yellow flowers.
Lost the ID of the other. The blooms are smaller, pale green with maroon spots.

I already watered them once after repotting. Is it okay to just let them rest for the next two weeks?

Thanks a lot for your valuable advice!

[orchidsarefun]

I am also in the Chicago area and have had issues getting my cymbidium to flower. I get a lot of new growth and foliage, but no flowers.

What follows is a summary of advice I got from Hausermann's:

Firstly - it should be outside now, getting filtered sun. Under a tree is best. Water once a week. Sprinkle the top of the media with osmocote and make sure you don't wash the granules away when watering.
Leave outside until temps have been about 35f for a week. Bring indoors - preferably to a South Facing position. They still need a lot of filtered sun over winter.....no heated drafts, and preferably an unheated room....( not above 72 )
This is what I am following - hopefully yours and mine will spike !!!

[Phalchid]

I already feel better! My plants, too, had abundant new growth. And every time a new shoot comes out I get all excited until it opens out to show leaves! I potted them in smaller containers this time around, hoping that will help. My basement window faces west, and I leave them on the floor where they can get lots of light. Only one south facing window,and that's in the family room. I put all my anthuriums there in the winter. I have no green house

Thanks a lot, orchidsarefun!

[jai_star]

Light + Cooler temperature drops are necessary for Cyms they also respond well to regular feeding especially high in P + K good luck and hope you get blooms by New Year

[Phalchid]

Thanks jai_star! I really appreciate all your advice.

[james mickelso]

Cyms like all the light they can get until it is cool in the late fall. They don't mind 40* weather but don't like heavy freezes. Repot only when the new growth comes out and then water when they feel dry. Not dry dry but light in the pot. Then water well again. Fertilize weakly at every watering. Use a high nitrogen fertilizer during the summer and then starting in sept in chicago, switch to a low nitrogen-high phosphorus/Potassium fertilizer. Watch your watering. Don't over water at this time because you will start to rot the roots and won't klnow it until it's too late. Water when the pot feels light. Once the frosts get heavy, bring indoors. You'll get flowers. If you repot too soon, you'll have foliage and not flowers. The cym bulbs for the most part flower the second year. The new pbulb grow the first year, matures, and then flowers the second year. Sometimes the third year depending on the health of the pbulb. Good luck. I want to see pictures in dec or jan of your cyms blooming.

[Bud]

its fine if you watered once after repotting, but wait a couple of weeks and really be strict....no water at all and in a cool dark place....new roots need to establish in the new media....these are the roots that will give energy to the spike not the old roots....and they must be strong and well established=watering now will weaken it and wont grow pencil big....watering will produce thin weak roots....its good you have many leaves for it manufactures food for your plant while at rest....
after a couple of weeks bring them out under a tree let them stay in the bright shade and then only bring them in if the temps are below 35F